Enclosed trailer build/condensation

[Laelkhunter]

Not to pick nits, but it's a CO detector (Monoxide) not CO2 (dioxide). Make sure you mount it low, about 12 inches from the floor. CO sinks and saturates the air low at the floor then rises as it saturates the air and fills the area. If you mount the CO detector high (on the ceiling) like you do a smoke detector, it might never register the dangerous amount of CO at the level that will affect you (like when you are sleeping on a cot 24" off the floor).

 

[Titan]

I have had good luck with the cheap diesel heaters. If you want AC down the line and the budget allows, you could look at the ecoflow wave 2. Only 6100btu of heat, but a small insulated trailer should be fine. Has a battery and can charge via solar.

 

[ScreamingPotato]

Not to pick nits, but it's a CO detector (Monoxide) not CO2 (dioxide). Make sure you mount it low, about 12 inches from the floor. CO sinks and saturates the air low at the floor then rises as it saturates the air and fills the area. If you mount the CO detector high (on the ceiling) like you do a smoke detector, it might never register the dangerous amount of CO at the level that will affect you (like when you are sleeping on a cot 24" off the floor).

Thank you for that info. I have a combo smoke/CO detector and it's up on the roof. I'll be fixing that PDQ.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Buy another and have two and mount one low. They aren't that expensive. Better safe than sorry. Also, I would suggest Lithium batteries. They don't leak, and are less affected by the extreme heat and cold.

 

[Hunter26]

A couple more questions...

People are talking about a thermal break. In my limited experience in how an attic works in a house or an insulated shop you want the ceiling or attic to have a layer that is exposed to the outside with a ventilated open space below. Then a layer of insulation between the "attic" and the inside wall? Is this what people are talking about because every build I have seen on youtube is a person putting solid insulation in the walls and ceiling with no space and ventilations in the ceiling? My understanding is not having this space is what is causing condensation inside the ceiling and walls which leads to mold and rust issues. If you do need the space and ventilation how are people doing it? After reading what I read, I don't think I am as concerned with not being able to solve the condensation issue inside the trailer.

Also, anybody have any experience with mini splits in an enclosed trailer? Thoughts for down the road but trying to think of those things incase it could impact my current plans. Thanks again

 

[Beendare]

you could look at the ecoflow wave 2. Only 6100btu of heat, but a small insulated trailer should be fine. Has a battery and can charge via solar.

I looked at those... the Professor Hobo dude on YouTube does A very good in depth analysis though his numbers are way off.

EDIT That thing is expensive...about $2500. BUT THERE IS A HUGE SALE GOING ON NOW $1400 or less with code.

To run it off of solar you better have a robust system

 

[GoatPackr]

I've got a 25' enclosed V nose snowmobile trailer that I have biult 5 folding bunks in the back and a kitchen in the front.
The first thing I did was rip all the wood out and put 1" foam board in along with 12 volt and 110 volt wiring. I can run from a generator or just on the big RV battery . All LED light inside and outside for skinning or working on a vehicle after dark. I've got a fancy switch panel that also has an LED voltage read out so I can see how much battery life is left.
In the kitchen I've got plenty cabinets and counter space along with a propane coleman camp oven.
I've also got a small 3.5 cft chest freezer that we take most of our meals pre-made in . It's also got an RV style roof vent that I have a strong 12v fan to push air out or in when cooking or you just need fresh air when your bud farts.

I've got everything well dialed EXCEPT the heat. I've used a buddy heater and it is plenty heat clear down into single digits but the humidity is bad because it become ice in places when it gets really cold.

This year I have a Nu-Way vented propane stove that I'll be trying. It has more BTU than the buddy heater and has a small 2" stack that will go out one of the small side fuel doors.
I'm planning to make a few modifications to it and use a computer fan to push air through it and around the trailer. That should help have a more even temp during those coldest nights.
The floor is not insulated and I don't think it's needed just yet. Maybe later I will add something.

Kris

 

[wowzers]

I put a woodstove in mine. No more condensation issues.

 

[Voyageur]

@wowzers
What brand of wood stove?
Thanks.

 

[Mountain_Life]

@GoatPackr how did the Nu-Way work this season?

 

[GoatPackr]

@GoatPackr how did the Nu-Way work this season?

Last minute I changed course and went with a Amazon diesel heater.
Happy I did.
There is another post similar to this one I posted pics in along with a review after using it.

You won't talk me into a stove of any kind now.
Cost and ease of use along with good air circulation and not monkeying around with cutting or hauling wood has me sold on the diesel heaters.

I'm going to sell the Nu-way if anyone wants to try one. Brand new never even hooked up.

Kris

 

[Beendare]

Thermal break; its insulation 101 to create a thermal break. Insulating between the metal frame is only OK…but just think of how much of that cold/hot is transferred into the living space From the metal frame.

I’ve seen thermal imaging from wood frame homes where the two by fours will transfer a considerable amount of the outside temperature to the inside envelope.

I wish I had more height in my little crappy trailer. If I went thick insulation on the ceiling it would drop the ceiling too much, I would be bending over all the time.

I used 1” rigid foam board between the 1” frame and then 1/2” over the whole thing. I went 1” over 1” in areas where I could. I would have preferred to use more in the ceiling, even thinking I was going to take the top off the trailer and raise it up to make room but it’s just too much work for a cheap and dirty hunting trailer.

Edit to add photo. Back Left side is unfinished ( as is the front) as i need to get Pex water line in the wall. In wall is 1” foam between metal frame then 1/2” foam with the reflective side in . The 1/2” acts as the thermal break. Its the cheap stuff but IME that thermal break makes all the difference.

 

[Mountain_Life]

I used a diesel heater as well. Towards the end of the season I was getting a code (E4 maybe?) that I determined was tied to a faulty controller. Once the heater began blowing heat it was fine but it took some fiddling to get it started. I think it's a connection in the controller.

Other than that problem, I really like the diesel heater. Moves a lot of air, pushes moisture outside and is controllable on a thermostat. I used the 12v trailer system to power it but I know others that use a tool battery. I found that I used about 1/3 tank of fuel running 12 hours on a cold night. I think the tank is just over a gallon.

 

[Douglasr]

@wowzers
What brand of wood stove?
Thanks.

I just put a Pomoly dweller max 3 in my cargo trailer.
It’s looks pretty cool.
I’ve lit it a couple times and it’s way more than enough heat for an 8x10 when fully loaded.
I haven’t had the time/weather to really test it yet, but it sure seems to be keeping things dryer than the tank top propane heater did last winter.
I’m a kiss guy so I’m not insulating anything and just drilled a hole through the ceiling with a 3.5” hole saw and use one of these nifty deck plates from Amazon to run the chimney through.
It’s kinda awesome. You can open and close it from the inside and take your chimney down when you’re driving.

https://www.amazon.com/ISURE-Stainless-Steel-Marine-Plate/dp/B00TLB6YVI/ref=asc_df_B00TLB6YVI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475691994600&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9748477104423200927&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022239&hvtargid=pla-1189050170821&psc=1&mcid=8051bd2f35263b318d185254b2f8a98d&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq5PfxK6UgwMVEf_jBx0tGwH1EAQYASABEgKjmvD_BwE

 

[GoatPackr]

I used a diesel heater as well. Towards the end of the season I was getting a code (E4 maybe?) that I determined was tied to a faulty controller. Once the heater began blowing heat it was fine but it took some fiddling to get it started. I think it's a connection in the controller.

Other than that problem, I really like the diesel heater. Moves a lot of air, pushes moisture outside and is controllable on a thermostat. I used the 12v trailer system to power it but I know others that use a tool battery. I found that I used about 1/3 tank of fuel running 12 hours on a cold night. I think the tank is just over a gallon.

I just ordered a 18 - 12v converter from Amazon to play with.
First test was with a 12 Amp hr milwaukee battery. Running the heater on High I got 6 hrs before it shutdown from low voltage.
My heater is a 5 - 8kw
On my recent trip I used the 12v trailer battery and run the heater on low- medium. Only time I turned it up all the way was on startup to get the heater warmed up and then before turning off I let it burn on high to clean it out before shutdown.
The thing that is really nice is having it all on a remote so when you wake up at night you can adjust the temp without crawling out of your bag.

A buddy biult a much smaller trailer camp than mine. Same heater as mine on low was much bigger than he needed. He used a 9 amp hr battery and it lasted all night for him.

Kris

 

[Blockcaver]

Not to pick nits, but it's a CO detector (Monoxide) not CO2 (dioxide). Make sure you mount it low, about 12 inches from the floor. CO sinks and saturates the air low at the floor then rises as it saturates the air and fills the area. If you mount the CO detector high (on the ceiling) like you do a smoke detector, it might never register the dangerous amount of CO at the level that will affect you (like when you are sleeping on a cot 24" off the floor).

Contrary to what is stated, CO is slightly lighter than air, even warm air….but ends up mixing in the air rather well. CO monitors can be placed low, at eye level or on the ceiling per the several manufacturers that pop up on a google search of the subject. (EPA says follow the manufacturer’s recommendations). In my 2016 house build we have combined CO/smoke alarms on the ceiling of the various living areas.


On a side note we had industrial CO monitors installed in the underground mines I worked in, linked to a master data collection system. They did have to be installed away from direct diesel exhaust exposure to large trucks, etc or they would alarm. They were typically installed higher in the tunnels to avoid equipment damage and were tested on a routine schedule. Monitor life was often fairly short.

 

[jblam]

Question to the guys that have done a buildout before: I have a 20’ enclosed trailer that I’m looking to add a diesel heater to, wondering if it makes sense to insulate the whole dang thing if all I have to do is bring an extra gallon or two of diesel on weekend trips? Would save tons of time and money to skip the insulation

 

[GoatPackr]

Question to the guys that have done a buildout before: I have a 20’ enclosed trailer that I’m looking to add a diesel heater to, wondering if it makes sense to insulate the whole dang thing if all I have to do is bring an extra gallon or two of diesel on weekend trips? Would save tons of time and money to skip the insulation

It's going to depend on how low of temps outside you plan to use it in.
It wasn't really that much trouble to insulate mine. I used a foil covered 1" foam board. I cut it to snugly fit. Use some canned foam to squirt in any gaps. It makes a huge difference having it insulated. No need for thicker insulation. You want to have to run the heater enough that it also circulates enough air out that wet or damp clothes will dry and not have moisture biuld up inside.
My trailer is a 25' enclosed snowmobile trailer so it has a lot of space inside to heat. My 5-8kw heater has been more than enough. With temps in the low 20s we had it running around medium and it was on the warm side all night with the roof vent open about 2" it Used about 3/8 tank of fuel.
Oh and put the heater outside not inside. No need for CO monitors then and you won't have all that noise inside with you. They can be noisy.

Kris

 

[Beendare]

Fwiw, a buddy built a camper on a 2 ton truck chassis with a refrigerated box designed to haul frozen food, super insulated.

That thing never got too hot and the heat from the stove alone kept it comfortably warm.IME, Insulation matters.

 

[MNBill]

For your electrics, use an rv power distribution center. They make different sizes but you get simple wiring for 120 volt and 12 volt. 120 volt has breakers and 12 volt is fused. You can thank me later.