Elk rifle question

I can second this. I have shot that rifle and it does not kick. Neither does my buddies Kimber Mountain Ascent in .280AI with a factory brake.

You guys are making me look again at the Kimber Hunter Pro with the factory brake. I've always liked the .280 and like the .280 AI even more. Would make the perfect big brother to my Tikka 7mm-08.
 
Just bought a used weatherby vanguard in nice shape in 7mm mag, used it while in Colorado but did not get to stretch her out. Great rifle.
 
There are a dozen different ways to skin that cat so to speak.

I will add this. Do you ever see your self going to Alaska? If so I would lean towards a .300. You don't need a 300 to kill a Moose or Mt. goat but it makes them easier to anchor in place. Not to mention if you have a problem with a grizz.
 
.30 caliber fan here.
Seen elk killed with everything from a .44 Mag handgun to a 25:06 to a 45:70.

My carry gun of choice this year is an 8.5 pound Cooper in .300 Win Mag. I have several Kimber Montanas and several custom rifles that all weigh in at 7 pounds or less scoped but when push comes to shove and after having just hurried up the steepest hill I could find to make that once in a lifetime shot, I want the extra pound of weight to steady the rifle for the shot.

(Actually just did that in Idaho last week at only 250 yards after a hurry up and beat the sunset, mile and a half hike.)
 
Im leaning towards the 300. I like my 45/70 but im not sure on the range. I like the idea of a 6 pound rifle but i agree with some that i prefer a little more weight for my accuracy. Unless traveling north to hunt, i will rarely see mountain terrain. I like the tekka and might do a few mods on it.
 
You can always make a Tikka heavier, but you can't make a lot of rifles lighter.

A Tikka with a bipod will weigh about the same as most rifles without one, and it will give you more options.
 
First mod I would make on a Tikka is to throw that stock away. Everything else is secondary to that.

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Tikka stock is rigid up front for a bipod. Put on a Sims recoil pad #10803 and Talley rings and a High quality scope and you have a light weight great shooting rifle for way less than a custom.

Heck if you want cheap and light - my back up rifle (crazy things can happen) for western hunts is a Ruger American in 30-06. Out of the box with factory ammo it will shoot 1 inch groups.

With this combo i have two rifles for the price of one custom!
 
First mod I would make on a Tikka is to throw that stock away. Everything else is secondary to that.

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I guess I just don't understand why people are so down on the Tikka stocks. They are very rigid compared to the Ruger American or Savage or Remington SPS (which isn't saying much, but it's something).

My factory Tikka 7mm-08 did this a couple weeks ago at 400 yards at a public range in Colorado. No bipod or bags. Just resting on my backpack. Exactly what is a rifle with a more expensive stock supposed to do that this one doesn't?

44359826_1804314169667098_2494300225632468992_n.jpg
 
I guess I just don't understand why people are so down on the Tikka stocks. They are very rigid compared to the Ruger American or Savage or Remington SPS (which isn't saying much, but it's something).

My factory Tikka 7mm-08 did this a couple weeks ago at 400 yards at a public range in Colorado. No bipod or bags. Just resting on my backpack. Exactly what is a rifle with a more expensive stock supposed to do that this one doesn't?

View attachment 81364

I agree - favorite plastic stock. The savage accustock is stiffer, but I much prefer the tikka ergos - it is stiffer then the standard savage stock for sure.
 
I think Trumpkin nailed it.

FWIW, I love the AR platform....especially the accuracy of my RR stainless bull barreled predator hunting model...a true sub MOA rifle....but its like hauling an anchor around. I would go with a LW Tikka or equal....
 
If it works for YOU, don't change it. I don't care at all for the Tikka stock, ergos are part of it, feel is another. It's the reason there are a million options on the market. Not everything works for everybody.
I guess I just don't understand why people are so down on the Tikka stocks. They are very rigid compared to the Ruger American or Savage or Remington SPS (which isn't saying much, but it's something).

My factory Tikka 7mm-08 did this a couple weeks ago at 400 yards at a public range in Colorado. No bipod or bags. Just resting on my backpack. Exactly what is a rifle with a more expensive stock supposed to do that this one doesn't?

View attachment 81364

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I guess I just don't understand why people are so down on the Tikka stocks. They are very rigid compared to the Ruger American or Savage or Remington SPS (which isn't saying much, but it's something).

My factory Tikka 7mm-08 did this a couple weeks ago at 400 yards at a public range in Colorado. No bipod or bags. Just resting on my backpack. Exactly what is a rifle with a more expensive stock supposed to do that this one doesn't?

View attachment 81364
What load were you shooting out of your 7mm08? You missed out on the ammo buy a year or so back when MassAmmo was selling Federal Premium with 140 gr Barnes for $15 a box lol. It was nice to get a case for $150

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If it works for YOU, don't change it. I don't care at all for the Tikka stock, ergos are part of it, feel is another. It's the reason there are a million options on the market. Not everything works for everybody.

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Can't disagree with the feel. They are too slick right out of the package. I shoot all my plastic stocks with a can of textured paint, available for $5 at Wal-mart. It changes the whole feel of the stock and makes it very tacky in the hand.
 
What load were you shooting out of your 7mm08? You missed out on the ammo buy a year or so back when MassAmmo was selling Federal Premium with 140 gr Barnes for $15 a box lol. It was nice to get a case for $150

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Hand loads - Lapua brass, CCI 200 primers, 40g IMR 8208 XBR (but Varget, either 4350, RL-16 or 17 or H414 would also work just fine) and the excellent 162-grain Hornady ELD-X bullet. Load is a grain less than max and nets me 2650-2670 fps. With the bc on that bullet, it's still carrying 1500 ft. lbs. well beyond 400 yards and the recoil is very tolerable in that light rifle.
 
Im leaning towards the 300. I like my 45/70 but im not sure on the range. I like the idea of a 6 pound rifle but i agree with some that i prefer a little more weight for my accuracy. Unless traveling north to hunt, i will rarely see mountain terrain. I like the tekka and might do a few mods on it.

I don’t think you can go wrong with the .300 Win Mag for Elk. Recoil will likely be the same as your 45/70 in a 7.5-9lb rifle, so you’ll be fine there.

I love the Tikka and Kimber 8400’s, but with your experience on the M40 - maybe a Rem 700 in .300 Win Mag and a Mildot optic would be an awesome combination. Good luck!
 
I've taken 22 elk with rifles from 257 Roy through 375h&h with a bunch in the middle. The one thing I found is to pick a bullet that works in the velocity range you shoot and steer it straight.

A scout with a rifle he knows well is gonna be deadly regardless of the headstamp.

That mildot experience can payoff big time in the field too.
 
Tons of good options

I like to look at keeping bullet velocity above 1800 and energy above 1200 for elk

With a .308 factory load, that buys you 5-550.

I use handloadee in my 30-06 that get me to 700...

300 wm will get you 8-900

Inside of 3-400 those 3 will have similar results.

The 7mms are good to - 7-08 and 7mmRM.

Elk aren't bullet proof - well placed shot from any of those calibers at 4-500 = dead elk.

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Can you please educate me on how these calculations are made? I shoot several different rifles and loads; obviously it's dependent on muzzle velocity, but could use help understanding how the range/energy figures are calculated. Thanks in advance.

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