Do's & Don'ts: starting over at the pro shop

[HydeParkHunter]

Getting back into bowhunting after a long hiatus. I'll soon be going to a local archery shop, one that I'm told has a good reputation, to shop for my new compound bow setup.

One thing that I didn't like before about the sport was the juggling act of draw weight/broadhead weight/spine, and trying to balance all that out. For this reason, I am going to the pro shop with the intention of buying the bow, arrows, broadheads, and sight system. I'm fine paying retail to have a pro set me up for success.

Having said all that... does anybody here have any advice on what I should, and should not, do/say when shopping from scratch like I am? Again, this place has a solid reputation, but figured I'd ask for some thoughts.

What I do know about my setup is I want to go the Dr. Ashby route (650 grain arrows, single bevel broadheads). Have also been advised by friends to shoot lots of bows and lean towards a more forgiving bow (longer axis and brace height).

Thank you!

 

[bojangles808]

Have an open mind (but it sounds like you already have that) and shoot what feels best to you. String angle and how the bows anchor is also key for me. I don't like to go less than 30 ata they anchor weird

 

[540-Virginian]

What are your hunting goals. Make that clear (eg, im hunting whitetail and want to shoot out to 35 yards).

expect some sighing from the bow shop if you mention ashby. Not going to start the debate as this thread will turn into 10 pages of arguing, just saying not every shop will just say ‘cool!’ if you claim you need super heavy and EFOC arrows... so have an open mind there are pros and cons to many setups on bow hunting. Just be clear on what you want and how you want to hunt.

I find asking questions and not making statements gets me in good with the owners. If you role in making bold statements thinking your right, itll be annoying from a shop that may have years experience over you...

 

[MallardSX2]

Dont dry-fire their new bows. lol Seen someone do that one time and it was an awkward moment.

 

[sndmn11]

If you know what you want the arrows to weigh, get those built first. Take them with you when bow shopping and let the arrows pick the bow once you have it narrowed down to one or two. Otherwise you will be testing bows with arrows likely 200gr lighter than what you know you want. Things may feel, sound, and tune differently.

I might even go so far as to buy the rest you want to use, and when you get to one or two bows, put it on and shoot your arrows. It should be real simple with a limb driven rest to tune to a bullet hole on paper, and real simple to learn if you will be fighting that setup to tune.

 

[rclouse79]

I blindly went with the arrow the pro shop sold me for my new bow and it was a huge mistake. Don't believe any "dynamic spine" marketing crap that allows a lighter arrow to shoot fine over a larger range of draw weights and broadhead weights. They sell light arrows because the average consumer wants speeds that match the advertisements in their magazines. I struggled to get my broadheads to tune for years before I finally went back to the drawing board. I went with a heavy arrow that actually matched the charts for my draw length and weight up front. It was like magic. I got it tuned at the shop and my first bare shaft through paper was a bullet hole and my broadheads hit where my field point do. Granted my new setup is noticeably slower, but I will take that over spraying broadheads everywhere.

 

[Kularrow]

I just went through this, here’s my advice.

1. Buy a quality sight with plenty of travel in your windage (left/right)
2. Don’t buy a cheap release
3. Make sure you’re shooting bullets through paper before you leave with your bow.
4. Get a peep and anchor point that’s perfect for you not looks right to the tech.
5. Buy the bow for what you want, if it’s 3D and Hunting maybe longer ATA
6. Archery isn’t cheap and opinions are like well you know, so do research buy quality stuff that will last. The tech is only human and is going to try to get you to buy things he’s enjoyed or that’s worked for him or other customers. It may or may not work for you.

 

[Zac]

There's probably not a pro shop in the country that has the components on the shelf for a 650 grain arrow. You need to be a seasoned veteran before venturing down that path. Do yourself a favor and trust the recommendation of the shop you are using.

 

[HydeParkHunter]

Appreciate the input. 540 Virginian - yes, I plan on asking a lot of questions and listening. I like what I've read about Ashby, but I know not everybody subscribes to that. Maybe my first trip to the shop will just be a lot of talking at this point.

And if it helps, my primary target will be elk in timber. Secondary (someday?) deer in thick brush.

 

[Billy Goat]

Appreciate the input. 540 Virginian - yes, I plan on asking a lot of questions and listening. I like what I've read about Ashby, but I know not everybody subscribes to that. Maybe my first trip to the shop will just be a lot of talking at this point.

And if it helps, my primary target will be elk in timber. Secondary (someday?) deer in thick brush.

I think Ashby has valid points, but I don't subscribe to the 600+ grain stuff. Just different ways of looking at stuff. I think mid 400's is plenty of arrow weight from my experiences. Now if you are over 30" draw, I'd be looking at heavier arrows. Single bevel are great with a recurve, I feel like I have power to burn so I don't use them in a compound.

These are my opinions that I have come to with playing with a lot of different things.

Play with stuff and keep an open mind. Everything isn't always what you read. I think it's hard to go wrong with an arrow that's 425-480 and 12% foc, assuming it's spined correctly and has a sharp front end.



I think a good shop will work with what you want, they will make suggestions but not tell you what you need to do. They will try to get what you want, but you can't expect them to have everything you want on the shelf.

 

[Samdemarais]

Getting back into bowhunting after a long hiatus. I'll soon be going to a local archery shop, one that I'm told has a good reputation, to shop for my new compound bow setup.

One thing that I didn't like before about the sport was the juggling act of draw weight/broadhead weight/spine, and trying to balance all that out. For this reason, I am going to the pro shop with the intention of buying the bow, arrows, broadheads, and sight system. I'm fine paying retail to have a pro set me up for success.

Having said all that... does anybody here have any advice on what I should, and should not, do/say when shopping from scratch like I am? Again, this place has a solid reputation, but figured I'd ask for some thoughts.

What I do know about my setup is I want to go the Dr. Ashby route (650 grain arrows, single bevel broadheads). Have also been advised by friends to shoot lots of bows and lean towards a more forgiving bow (longer axis and brace height).

Thank you!

Shoot a lot of bows, do your own research from credible sources, EFOC and Ashby stuff is not really relatable to your style of hunting unless you are hunting Cape buffalo with a long bow at 10 yards. 450-500 is plenty, it’s more about arrow flight and broadhead sharpness/ edge retention. You can’t really have an open mind if you already believe the Ashby stuff and want that heavy of an arrow, you will have very few options and trouble tuning. Buy after market strings from GAS and keep the factory ones as a back up, abs buy a quality super sharp fixed blade broadhead.

 

[Zac]

You can definitely get whatever weight you want to fly perfect. However if this is what you want then you need to purchase a bow and components only. The best resource for this build is going to be Ranch Fairy. You can get a heavy weight test kit from Sirius. Then your going to have to go to work bare shafting with different point weights until you get close to your weight. The reason I didn't reference this earlier is because you wanted to use a trusted shop. They simply are not going to go down this road with you. My guess is if you attempt this with your inexperience that you end up frustrated and broke and go back to the shop anyways. However it definitely can be done. I think your a little too close to August, and September to tackle this, yet it may be a good project for next winter.

 

[Billy Goat]

You can definitely get whatever weight you want to fly perfect. However if this is what you want then you need to purchase a bow and components only. The best resource for this build is going to be Ranch Fairy. You can get a heavy weight test kit from Sirius. Then your going to have to go to work bare shafting with different point weights until you get close to your weight. The reason I didn't reference this earlier is because you wanted to use a trusted shop. They simply are not going to go down this road with you. My guess is if you attempt this with your inexperience that you end up frustrated and broke and go back to the shop anyways. However it definitely can be done. I think your a little too close to August, and September to tackle this, yet it may be a good project for next winter.

Actually it's not hard to get to 600 grains. What's hard is tuning the efoc if that's what you desire.

Aluminum 2219, spines close to 340. Weigh close to 14 gpi. You can get a nice heavy arrow that is extremely consistent and pretty easy to tune. You just don't get all the efoc that's all the rage now.

At least a lot of shops around here still carry some aluminum. Maybe it's not common everywhere else.

 

[Zac]

Actually it's not hard to get to 600 grains. What's hard is tuning the efoc if that's what you desire.

Aluminum 2219, spines close to 340. Weigh close to 14 gpi. You can get a nice heavy arrow that is extremely consistent and pretty easy to tune. You just don't get all the efoc that's all the rage now.

At least a lot of shops around here still carry some aluminum. Maybe it's not common everywhere else.

Yes I totally didn't even think to address that. The difference between a 2219 650 and the custom GrizzlyStik 650 is probably only around 600 bucks lol. Interesting to quantify what 1 percentage point of FOC is worth these days.

 

[Billy Goat]

Yes I totally didn't even think to address that. The difference between a 2219 650 and the custom GrizzlyStik 650 is probably only around 600 bucks lol. Interesting to quantify what 1 percentage point of FOC is worth these days.

That and I quoted your wrong post.


Those grizzlystiks will be easier to keep straight. So 2% more foc and a shaft that likely stays straighter, assuming you were to fall on your arrows.

Which does happen.