Does this scope exist? Thick reticle, light, dials

Marbles

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I’d be interested to hear what you find. When my scope arrived it had obviously been bouncing around inside the box which is why I am wondering if it was internally damaged. I’ve seen a few other reports that had the same issue but I’ve also seen people say they had zero issues, so I’m not sure. The return went smoothly with euro so customer service was great.

I primarily noticed it over 6x, worsening as zoom increased. Especially if there was any skyline visible in the sight picture. During full daylight it was great though and I really like what it has to offer. I may try another one in the future
Don't think I'll have an answer for you tonight, it is overcast and the looking into a dim area with bright light coming in from outside the scopes field of view does not exist tonight. I'll try again in the morning. Fingers crossed I'll drop a moose or bear with it too (or just get munched by the monster with 8-9 inch (well, 7 inch is probably more honest) wide front paws that walked on the sand bar 150 yards from my camp, in which case I may not have an answer at all).
 
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TxLite

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Don't think I'll have an answer for you tonight, it is overcast and the looking into a dim area with bright light coming in from outside the scopes field of view does not exist tonight. I'll try again in the morning. Fingers crossed I'll drop a moose or bear with it too (or just get munched by the monster with 8-9 inch wide front paws that walked on the sand bar 150 yards from my camp, in which case I may not have an answer at all).
Good luck!
 

Marbles

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80 minutes before sunrise on 12x I got a completely washed out scope aiming about 10 degrees below the first light over the mountains. On 6x I had a good image and could see trees. With the naked eye it was just dark and I could see nothing.

The eye box does get tighter, but adjusting head position resulted in a clear image on 12x from that point on.

As the sun was coming up over the mountains, I think the conditions were more forgiving than at Sunset on Friday when I noticed some glare on on 6x.
 

Marbles

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And looks like yours was not an anomaly, with the sun three fingers above the horizon I could not shoot anything in that direction on any power.

Guess I'll be giving a sunshade a try as shielding the objective with my hand helps. Though I'm not certain it will fix it.
 

fwafwow

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80 minutes before sunrise on 12x I got a completely washed out scope aiming about 10 degrees below the first light over the mountains. On 6x I had a good image and could see trees. With the naked eye it was just dark and I could see nothing.

The eye box does get tighter, but adjusting head position resulted in a clear image on 12x from that point on.

As the sun was coming up over the mountains, I think the conditions were more forgiving than at Sunset on Friday when I noticed some glare on on 6x.
Thanks for the update. But what about the monster!?
 

TxLite

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And looks like yours was not an anomaly, with the sun three fingers above the horizon I could not shoot anything in that direction on any power.

Guess I'll be giving a sunshade a try as shielding the objective with my hand helps. Though I'm not certain it will fix it.
Thanks for the follow up. That’s a shame. I hope your hunt is unaffected by it

Features-wise the scope is just about perfect in my book. The 4.8 mils of travel gets me out to the max distance I’d shoot the rifle anyways.

I considered trying a sunshade at Form’s suggestion but ultimately decided the added weight and length likely wasn’t worth it Over my 3-18x50 Tenmile
 

Formidilosus

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80 minutes before sunrise on 12x I got a completely washed out scope aiming about 10 degrees below the first light over the mountains. On 6x I had a good image and could see trees. With the naked eye it was just dark and I could see nothing.

The eye box does get tighter, but adjusting head position resulted in a clear image on 12x from that point on.

As the sun was coming up over the mountains, I think the conditions were more forgiving than at Sunset on Friday when I noticed some glare on on 6x.

When you are looking into the sun, side by side which scopes don’t do that?
 

TxLite

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When you are looking into the sun, side by side which scopes don’t do that?
I did a side by side test with the Klassik, a tenmile 3-18x50, and a swaro z5 3-18x44 and neither had the same issue with glare washout as the Klassik

But again, I only have a sample size of 1 and mine may have been an extreme example
 

Marbles

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When you are looking into the sun, side by side which scopes don’t do that?
I do not know because I have not tried provoking glare with other scopes.

Personally I think it is pretty impressive that I could shoot something 80 minutes before sunrise and I rarely go past 6x anyway.

I will be keeping the S&B, it is a pretty narrow set of conditions where it is not usable (for this morning about 15 minutes over about 40 degrees of the compass) and it is usable well after sunset/before sunrise, has a good reticle, good low light illumination (the NX8 1-8 was too bright even on the lowest setting), appears to be reliable (I have not dropped it yet to test, nor dialed with it), does not have a stupid large magnification range, and is not supper heavy.

If the glare is the only issue, I will be happy as at least I can see when not to shoot rather than gut shooting an animal because the scope lost zero.
 
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It's a shame that the Leupold offerings seem so inconsistent in terms of reliability. I still think that their firedot duplex is a fantastic reticle for hunting. I loved my Leupold VX5HD and the glass was killer, but I didn't trust it after it started acting a bit funky.
 

JCMCUBIC

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I use 2 of the 3-12x42 Klassics w/P3L and BDC dials (one with the older 3.2 and one with the newer 4.8). I consider them a really good option but there are a few factors that I think anyone considering one should keep in mind:

1. The glare. When comparing with other scopes, the glare of the 3-12x42 Klassic is pretty bad. I don't know the reason why, but it is. A sunshade fixes it. It's less at 6x and lower powers, but even at 6x it's more noticeable than S&B 6x42 Klassics and PMII's when comparing side by side. Again, I don't know the "why", but it is. I've started using a screw-on rubber sunshade from time to time with them.

2. Limited elevation travel. This kept me from being able to use them on a rifle with 25 MOA Hawkins Hybrids. I couldn't get a 200 yard zero. I switched to a 20 MOA rail and was able to zero at 200 yards (but not 100). Recently mounted the 3.2 on a Tikka in UM rings using Tikka's flat dovetail. Set a 200 yard zero but was limited to 2.9 mil of up on the 3.2 mil BDC.

3. Parallax. It's best to have S&B set the parallax to 250 (+/-) if you have a dial added. I don't know what the factory setting on the latest production factory equipped BDC is but if sending one in to have a BDC added they will make this recommendation to you and complete it for no charge.

If you can work around those things, they are a good scope. They've been reliable for me while dialing, the P3L is a good FFP hunting reticle near to far, and the illumination is very well done...minimal area illuminated with settings low enough that it doesn't cause an image washout in low light.
 

Macintosh

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re: the s&b klasskik 3-12, A quick search will turn up several posts with detailed plus and minus info on this scope, as well as through-the scope photos showing what the p3 reticle looks like at low and high power, various light conditions, etc. There are also side by side photos comparing this scope through the lens to a leupold vx3 as dusk is falling. for anyone considering this scope that info seems helpful and should be relatively easy to find.

Reticle images of several of the scopes from this thread:
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/ffp-reticle-image-thread.299649/post-3135823

Re the glare--I have noticed some glare a bit more than on some of my other scopes in some very specific light conditions, but its so specific I never give it much thought--it has to be pretty dark, with lots of sunlight still hitting you, ie looking into a dark treeline at dusk when sunlight is still directly in your face--Something like that anyway, I havent encountered it enough to have a great handle on what causes it. Even hunting near dusk on or near field edges I havent run into this. In a year of hunting and shooting with that scope, the only time I've noticed it has been taking the above through-the-scope photos, it has not happened while hunting. I'm honestly a little surprised people have had trouble with it, I just havent run into it—sorry to you guys if my posts convinced you to try it and you were disappointed. In all other conditions I have found the glass to be exceptional, certainly the equal of, if not superior to, leupold vx5 and vx6 level, swaro z5, etc. I personally find the glass to be better than any other scopes I've used for the really "mega-dark timber at last-legal-light" extremely dark conditions that I do run into frequently.

The rest of the quirks with this scope have been 100% non-issues for me--even at 3.2 mils with a 100 yard zero and a flat rail, that gets me to 500 yards, which is past where I have any business shooting at critters and meets the OP's stated criteria. The new 4.8 mil turret should add probably another 100 yards or more on top of that.
I dont recall exactly but believe s&b told me the bdc-turret model scopes have a longer parallax setting from factory than the capped turret models, I had mine set to 250 and depth of field is good enough its still very crisp edge to edge down to 30 yards or less as long as Im not on max magnification.

My wants were pretty similar to the op’s. Personally, I have not found a scope that meets my needs better than this one.
 
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This is going after mule deer and antelope next week... It was an OG precision hunter with 100m parallax and 3.2 mil dial, sent it back to Jerry to install the new 4.8 mil BDC and reset parallax at 225m. It is not illuminated but I have yet to find fault with it. Will check for glare Sunday morning...


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