Do you adjust your zero when traveling?

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Jun 7, 2016
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I recently moved to sea level but hunt in the mountains between 8-12k Elevation. If I sight in my rifles here, get all my dope in my Sig 5k, MV Temp table, chrono speed, etc. When I travel do I need to bring a chrono and get my new speeds and re-zero or just trust the rangefinder and check my zero against the readout based on the new density altitude adjustment? Meaning when I go check my scope at altitude, if I range it and my sig tells me it'll be 1.5" High at 100 and it hits 1.5" high, that im good to go.
 
Muzzle velocity and a 100 yard zero will be the same at sea level vs at elevation.

A 200 yard zero or 300 yard zero is far enough for a big elevation change to require rezeroing and I would strongly recommend a 100 yard zero partly for this reason.
 
Muzzle velocity and a 100 yard zero will be the same at sea level vs at elevation.

A 200 yard zero or 300 yard zero is far enough for a big elevation change to require rezeroing and I would strongly recommend a 100 yard zero partly for this reason.

This. Zero at 100 and go forth hunting at any altitude. Corrections at distance will change a bit based on DA.
 
Thanks for the feedback! IDK why I was thinking the MV would change with altitude.... appreciate yall setting me straight! More of a bow guy, lol
 
I think it is more important to check your zero in case of the rifle getting knocked around during transit. I usually sight in 2 inches high at 100 at home before leaving on my trip (live at sea level). I always confirm zero after my trip up to Chama, shooting the day before the hunt. At 100 yards, the rifle is still shooting 2 inches high, no correction needed and this is at about 7900 feet.
 
If you have a really solid zero and temp factor data, meaning you got accurate velocity readings in both hot and cold weather with the powder acclimated, I've had great results with the Sig 5k/AB solutions everywhere I've gone and hunted or practiced so far.
 
With modern faster/flat cartridges if you zero at, say, 200-250 yards, your 'zero shift' at higher or lower elevations is generally within a single click and if you are worried about it, just start with the same 'x high at 100' info and back into a 'new' zero range. That's what I do. Say I'm 2.3" high at 100 and zeroed at 225. OK, I go to higher elevation, I fiddle with the ballistics app and find that to be 2.3" high at 100 my zero would now be at, say, 230. I just made those numbers up but that's how I have handled this. I'm an old fudd that still zeros high at 100 so I don't have to think much about ballistics out to 250-300 yards when in a hurry.
 
With modern faster/flat cartridges if you zero at, say, 200-250 yards, your 'zero shift' at higher or lower elevations is generally within a single click and if you are worried about it, just start with the same 'x high at 100' info and back into a 'new' zero range. That's what I do. Say I'm 2.3" high at 100 and zeroed at 225. OK, I go to higher elevation, I fiddle with the ballistics app and find that to be 2.3" high at 100 my zero would now be at, say, 230. I just made those numbers up but that's how I have handled this. I'm an old fudd that still zeros high at 100 so I don't have to think much about ballistics out to 250-300 yards when in a hurry.
That adds variables if you intend to shoot longer ranges. The easiest way to go about it is to zero at 100 yards, and dial 2 MOA for 2", or whatever the correction is for 200-250 yards. A true 100 yard zero will always be more precise and functional at any elevation, just the solutions change.
 
Zero at 100y, dial in your elevation for MPBR before going on your walk about. Or dope and dial for longer range targets.
 
I’m skipping the advice part to say what no one else has mentioned yet;

There is no amount of environmental changes that would move your POI by 1.5” at 100 yards.

Going from sea level to 10k feet would shift your 100 yard POI by maybe a few hundredths of an inch.
 
The 100 yard zero is very over rated for everything other than short range varmints. I can only imagine its popularity is because everyone can get to a 100 yard range. 200 yard minimum is much better, and 300 yards is so simple it’s worked well for decades.

Folks want to shoot long distance and yet are afraid of environmental conditions causing them so much confusion at 300 they won’t know how to interpret it.
 
The 100 yard zero is very over rated for everything other than short range varmints. I can only imagine its popularity is because everyone can get to a 100 yard range. 200 yard minimum is much better, and 300 yards is so simple it’s worked well for decades.

Folks want to shoot long distance and yet are afraid of environmental conditions causing them so much confusion at 300 they won’t know how to interpret it.
I disagree with this, in that I’m not afraid of shooting 200 or 300 yards or factoring enviro’s. But I do think zero’ing beyond 100 adds more enviro variability, so that’s why I don’t do it.

You do what works for you.
 
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