Do you adjust your zero when traveling?

[Alaska Bowman]

I recently moved to sea level but hunt in the mountains between 8-12k Elevation. If I sight in my rifles here, get all my dope in my Sig 5k, MV Temp table, chrono speed, etc. When I travel do I need to bring a chrono and get my new speeds and re-zero or just trust the rangefinder and check my zero against the readout based on the new density altitude adjustment? Meaning when I go check my scope at altitude, if I range it and my sig tells me it'll be 1.5" High at 100 and it hits 1.5" high, that im good to go.

 

[eric1115]

Muzzle velocity and a 100 yard zero will be the same at sea level vs at elevation.

A 200 yard zero or 300 yard zero is far enough for a big elevation change to require rezeroing and I would strongly recommend a 100 yard zero partly for this reason.

 

[nm.otter]

Use 4DOF and Gun Angle, then adjust for local conditions once you get there.

 

[wind gypsy]

Muzzle velocity and a 100 yard zero will be the same at sea level vs at elevation.

A 200 yard zero or 300 yard zero is far enough for a big elevation change to require rezeroing and I would strongly recommend a 100 yard zero partly for this reason.

This. Zero at 100 and go forth hunting at any altitude. Corrections at distance will change a bit based on DA.

 

[Alaska Bowman]

Thanks for the feedback! IDK why I was thinking the MV would change with altitude.... appreciate yall setting me straight! More of a bow guy, lol

 

[Ryan Avery]

Depends on what scope you have......

 

[Laelkhunter]

I think it is more important to check your zero in case of the rifle getting knocked around during transit. I usually sight in 2 inches high at 100 at home before leaving on my trip (live at sea level). I always confirm zero after my trip up to Chama, shooting the day before the hunt. At 100 yards, the rifle is still shooting 2 inches high, no correction needed and this is at about 7900 feet.

 

[Harvey_NW]

If you have a really solid zero and temp factor data, meaning you got accurate velocity readings in both hot and cold weather with the powder acclimated, I've had great results with the Sig 5k/AB solutions everywhere I've gone and hunted or practiced so far.

 

[Chris in TN]

With modern faster/flat cartridges if you zero at, say, 200-250 yards, your 'zero shift' at higher or lower elevations is generally within a single click and if you are worried about it, just start with the same 'x high at 100' info and back into a 'new' zero range. That's what I do. Say I'm 2.3" high at 100 and zeroed at 225. OK, I go to higher elevation, I fiddle with the ballistics app and find that to be 2.3" high at 100 my zero would now be at, say, 230. I just made those numbers up but that's how I have handled this. I'm an old fudd that still zeros high at 100 so I don't have to think much about ballistics out to 250-300 yards when in a hurry.

 

[Harvey_NW]

With modern faster/flat cartridges if you zero at, say, 200-250 yards, your 'zero shift' at higher or lower elevations is generally within a single click and if you are worried about it, just start with the same 'x high at 100' info and back into a 'new' zero range. That's what I do. Say I'm 2.3" high at 100 and zeroed at 225. OK, I go to higher elevation, I fiddle with the ballistics app and find that to be 2.3" high at 100 my zero would now be at, say, 230. I just made those numbers up but that's how I have handled this. I'm an old fudd that still zeros high at 100 so I don't have to think much about ballistics out to 250-300 yards when in a hurry.

That adds variables if you intend to shoot longer ranges. The easiest way to go about it is to zero at 100 yards, and dial 2 MOA for 2", or whatever the correction is for 200-250 yards. A true 100 yard zero will always be more precise and functional at any elevation, just the solutions change.