Do I need to care?

[Trout&Buck]

So I got some new arrows a month ago (victory Rivalx) and have been working through my process for getting my bow all set up and sighted in with them. I shoot a fair amount of 3D for fun (not competitively) but my main goal for my archery setup has always been to have it Dialed for hunting use. Yesterday was my first time shooting broad heads with the new setup and while I may need to do a little more tweaking, I was pretty happy with how my broad heads were grouping with field points out to 50 yards.

So, would it be correct to say I should just focus on broadhead tuning, or should I still be fiddling with shooting bareshafts and through paper?

 

[BigSky]

In my opinion, if hunting, bareshaft tuning through paper (and any other method one chooses) is to get to the end point of having my broadheads grouping with field points at the distance I intend to use them. From what you posted it looks like you are already there.

 

[KyleR1985]

You can have broadheads and field points have the same POI with an untuned bow, crappy form, and inconsistent arrow builds.

You won’t have small tight groups of field points and broadheads with the same POI if those things are there.

Whether you care is up to you - there’s an acceptable dispersion and accuracy threshold for everyone. What’s yours?

 

[Dennis]

It sounds like you are either there or almost there. Not quite sure what broadhead tweaking you are referring to? If you achieve perfect bare shaft flight (and nock tuning if necessary) with the same tip weight (broadheads and field tips) you should be done with bare shaft testing. Broadheads should be spin tested (they are longer) for shaft and insert alignment. If all of that is in alignment then next I would consider fletching. Since broadheads are trying to steer the front of the shaft unlike field tips some additional fletching can sometimes be something to consider. I like to finalize my testing is using two small 6" paper plates at distance (30-50 yards) to compare five arrow groups and point of aim. If my point of aim is the same and groups are roughly the same I am done. Good luck

 

[Beendare]

If you were there...you wouldn't be posting. grin

Many ways to skin a cat on this tuning. I like to shoot BH's and FP's in groups and use that to make my adjustments. [very tiny adjustments]

 

[Trout&Buck]

I guess I should rephrase my question. Now that I can get fieldpoints and broadheads to shoot 6(ish) inch groups at 50 yards is it worth shooting bareshafts or through paper to continue tuning, or should I just keep shooting broadheads and adjust my rest?

(And that 6" group is the overall group size not " broadhead is withing 6" fieldpoints)

 

[Trial153]

This is gonna be controversial, I know. But after I get a perfect bullet hole with a bare shaft at 10 yards, I will even consider using any broadhead that doesn't shoot the same point of impact as my fletched arrows under 50.. I'm not taking my bow out of town for shitty broadheads..And there are some shity flying broadheads out there.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I guess I should rephrase my question. Now that I can get fieldpoints and broadheads to shoot 6(ish) inch groups at 50 yards is it worth shooting bareshafts or through paper to continue tuning, or should I just keep shooting broadheads and adjust my rest?

(And that 6" group is the overall group size not " broadhead is withing 6" fieldpoints)

If both broadheads and field points are landing within the same 6" group centered around the same point of impact, your bow is tuned within your ability as a shooter. If you're at this stage, move your sight (not your rest) to adjust the center of your group to match your point of aim.