DIY E-Boiler for Euro Skulls

SteveAndTheCrigBoys

SteveAndTheCrigBoys

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In the interest of not detracting from the Grakksaw E-Boiler thread, starting a new one for DIY E-Boiler builds. Initial build list and thoughts below:
Total Cost = ~$120

According to whitebonecreations, 170 degrees is the minimum temp you need to sustain over 10+ hours. Seems like the immersion heater linked there is capable of that, and the insulated cooler should help it maintain. I like that this unit has a set temp and current temp readout on the controller.

I imagine a brick or similar with the heating element hose clamped to it will suffice for keeping the element from melting the bottom of the cooler.

Depending on the cooler, could just cut out a section for antlers to protrude and skip the rigid insulation board lid. I do wonder if the 170 degree + temps will be a problem for the plastic of a cheap igloo cooler.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Constructive Criticism?
 
I too would wonder how the cheep cooler would hold up to the heat

Wondering if you could use a metal container then wrap with insulation board.
 
I have a buddy that has done something similar with one of the sous vide circulators in a cooler. Not sure how hot that thing gets but he didn't have any issues doing massive batches of pulled pork. Pretty sure pulled pork needs to be north of 170.
 
JoeB said:
I too would wonder how the cheep cooler would hold up to the heat

Wondering if you could use a metal container then wrap with insulation board.
Click to expand...
Hmm, yeah something like this could work. Wrap it in 1" rigid insulation. Sliding lid is a nice touch. But kinda blows the budget.

Drop-in Ice Chest 24 in. L x 18 in. W x 13 in. H Stainless Steel Commercial Ice Bin

I emailed Igloo, said I was doing something similar to a sous vide haha. See if they actually answer or give me a corporate response.
 
I'd try a version of yours if I were to start over. You don't have to do the high heat if you do the maceration method.

I built one a bunch of years back, but it ain't pretty. It works great for skulls up to deer size. Inkbird controller, rubber cattle feed bucket with metal handle, hot water tank 1500w element, weatherproof 1-gang junction box, 1 end of a heavy duty extension cord. I think it was less than $70 total. Pics should be self-explanatory. Set Inkbird to temp you want the high temp to turn off at, and the low temp to come on at, all based on the submerged temp sensor. I think I use 180 high, 170 low. Use the shortest length of cord to the outlet. Thin extension cords may not handle the current so do a test run or two to see how hot the cord gets. If the bucket got spilled or ran out of water the sensor will go cold - the element will be turned on and become extremely hot until failure, melting, fire or breakers trip. Other devices may or may not have automatic shutoffs.

Pro - small, lightweight, inexpensive, weatherproof, easy to pour off the water and grunge, sidewalls not heat conductive, use a hose to spray the thing off when done. Cons - no circulator, no cover (so you have to improvise to hold in heat and/or reduce evaporation and smell), element may fail eventually due to mineral build up.

Good luck.

Here is my setup. I may have "boiled" my antelope skull in the tub of the motel while waiting out a 4 day blizzard. I used 180 degrees. There was little to no smell and the "bits" were poured into the toilet.

IMG_9870.JPG 2 Boiler.JPG
3 Boiler.JPG
 
If you’re real concerned about the heat an old metal mop bucket, a box and some fiberglass insulation. Then when you’re ready to pour the water out just pick the bucket up and dump it out. Some type of lid wouldn’t be hard to figure out. Should be able to pull this off pretty cheap.
 
Erict said:
I'd try a version of yours if I were to start over. You don't have to do the high heat if you do the maceration method.

I built one a bunch of years back. Inkbird controller, rubber cattle feed bucket with metal handle, hot water tank 1500w element, weatherproof 1-gang junction box, 1 end of a heavy duty extension cord. I think it was less than $70 total. Drill hole through side of bucket a couple inches up, mount element and seal it off, wire a plug to it using the junction box. Plug it into the Inkbird and plug Inkbird into the wall.

This is "old school" but has worked great for skulls up to deer size. Pro - small, lightweight, inexpensive, weatherproof, easy to pour off the water and grunge, sidewalls not heat conductive, use a hose to spray the thing off when done. Cons - no circulator, no cover (so you have to improvise to hold in heat and/or reduce evaporation and smell).

I added a GFCI extension cord as a bit of CYA insurance.

I use tap water, Dawn detergent and a handful or so of Borax with my simmers. I'm guessing that over time these elements will build up minerals that may or may not lead to inefficient heating or failure.

Good luck.


When a blizzard closes the interstates for several days after an antelope hunt you get to thinking of things to do. I may have "boiled" my antelope skull in the tub of the motel. I used 180 degrees. There was little to no smell and the "bits" were poured into the toilet.

View attachment 987922
Click to expand...

That's awesome, you should have developed that into an $850 product! haha

My (very limited) understanding is that maceration temps may smell worse. That whitebone fella says the ~175-180 temp doesn't smell much, or that it actually smells like cooked meat (i.e. not gross). Which seems to mirror your experience with that temp. Limiting potential stank is appealing to me for sure with close neighbors.

But maceration temps are definitely something I'd like to experiment with. Hoping to get this project put together after New Years then get after some yotes to test it out on.
 
I am going back to doing myself as the guy that did a couple last week didn't cover bases in foil and now I have to figure out how to clean the stain off.I like your idea.I know some guys that do that and then spray wash with a heated car wash to finish.
 
SteveAndTheCrigBoys said:
Hmm, yeah something like this could work. Wrap it in 1" rigid insulation. Sliding lid is a nice touch. But kinda blows the budget.

Drop-in Ice Chest 24 in. L x 18 in. W x 13 in. H Stainless Steel Commercial Ice Bin

I emailed Igloo, said I was doing something similar to a sous vide haha. See if they actually answer or give me a corporate response.
Click to expand...
Follow up - Igloo said their plastic is good for up to 165 degree liquid temps...

Glad they gave an actual answer, bummer it's 5-10 degrees too low. Might be close enough to try on a cheap used one.
 
I also use a sous vide as someone mentioned. Picked one up off Facebook Marketplace for $5 and it has done many skulls. I set to 180 degrees and let it go for several days. The skull goes in a game bag or cheesecloth to keep stuff from clogging up the circulator. You can use whatever container you want sized appropriately for the skull, usually just a bucket I have laying around.
 
TxAg said:
I also use a sous vide as someone mentioned. Picked one up off Facebook Marketplace for $5 and it has done many skulls. I set to 180 degrees and let it go for several days. The skull goes in a game bag or cheesecloth to keep stuff from clogging up the circulator. You can use whatever container you want sized appropriately for the skull, usually just a bucket I have laying around.
Click to expand...
I wonder if that’s the move over an immersion heater. Seems like the main differences are circulation with a sous vide, but less powerful at 1000w vs 1500w
 
SteveAndTheCrigBoys said:
I wonder if that’s the move over an immersion heater. Seems like the main differences are circulation with a sous vide, but less powerful at 1000w vs 1500w
Click to expand...
It works incredibly well. Even with just foil over the top of an uninsulated bucket I have no issue maintaining temperature. Granted I'm not in a super cold part of the country (Texas).
 
TxAg said:
I also use a sous vide as someone mentioned. Picked one up off Facebook Marketplace for $5 and it has done many skulls. I set to 180 degrees and let it go for several days. The skull goes in a game bag or cheesecloth to keep stuff from clogging up the circulator. You can use whatever container you want sized appropriately for the skull, usually just a bucket I have laying around.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea to keep things out of the unit.
 
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