DIY copycat kifaru lite duplex

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

My servo I can tune down the max speed to fairly slow, it adjusts in 100rpm increments and I tend to sew mostly 600-800, if lots of straight lines I can go faster but typically the 600/800 area works well. The pedal varies the speed too in addition up to the maximum setting. I don’t use the ramp up feature on mine just max speed and foot position. The needle position is a sensor on the sewing machine shaft telling the unit where top dead center and bottom dead center are so depending on what you pick when you let off the foot it finishes a stitch in the chosen position. I used needle down so I can easily pivot stuff around. If I push in the heel side of the pedal it jumps to top dead center to free up what I am sewing from the machine.

Maybe you need different ratio pulleys to slow yours down more?

 

[WoodBow]

That sounds super nice. What machine/s are you running?

I considered changing the pulleys but the one on the servo is already quite small. The pulleys on the machines are also the hand wheels, so I would lose a little bit of ease of use. On the juki, the pulley/hand wheel has the stitch per inch notches on it so I would lose that indicator.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

The machine is a clone juki du-1181 basically, its the local companies label on the machine. I'm sure compound feed (IE with needle feed) would be nicer than just top/bottom feed but it does pretty well and much nicer to use than a domestic with bottom feed only. I still use my domestic machine for limited things because its a free arm which is occasionally needed for some tasks.

The servo setup that came on it is a consew CS1001 I believe but I don't readily see that one for resale, looks like the CSM1001 is what they are selling now which off hand looks nicer in that the controls are on the switch you mount up on the front underside of the table. The controls on mine are down at the box around the motor so I need to lean over to change anything. Realistically though I don't change settings too often, I run 600-800rpm on my setup most of the time max and foot control to tune the speed, sometimes if I am doing lots of slow work where a burst of speed accidentally would be an issue I'll turn the max down further. It did take me a while to get used to the foot control on this, its a much narrower movement band compared to a domestic pedal. With the needle positioner setup I would sometimes end up completing one extra stitch than I intended by not letting off soon enough when starting out (still happens occasional).

 

[5shot]

If you want to go even slower, look for a speed reducer pulley setup. It has a 3:1 reduction and will let you go really slow and still has lots of torque, which you can lose with a servo when creeping along.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[WoodBow]

If you want to go even slower, look for a speed reducer pulley setup. It has a 3:1 reduction and will let you go really slow and still has lots of torque, which you can lose with a servo when creeping along.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I just watched a video that mentioned that. Seemed like a good idea.

 

[Beendare]

Some serious skills Wood!

So you used "XPE foam" for the belt...are you happy with that?

Is there any issue with noise of the cordura against the frame?

I've thought about casting my own custom carbon fiber frame sheet as it would be easy to do...but I worry about the fabric noise against the frame.

 

[WoodBow]

Some serious skills Wood!

So you used "XPE foam" for the belt...are you happy with that?

Is there any issue with noise of the cordura against the frame?

I've thought about casting my own custom carbon fiber frame sheet as it would be easy to do...but I worry about the fabric noise against the frame.

No complaints with the xpe. The 1/2" does seem slightly thicker than kifaru. Not sure if they use 3/8 or if mine is just worn down from use.

Are you talking about the cordura over the actual rigid frame sheet? There is zero movement there. Not only is the fit too dang tigh to allow it to move, but I also sewed through all layers when attaching other items later on. I pretty much 100% copied my kifaru duplex as far as materials used where and how everything goes together. I haven't hauled anything with it yet but i do not anticipate any issues.

 

[Jskaanland]

Wow, thats an awesome looking frame!

 

[RoaminTexan]

As others have said...WOW! That looks great!

 

[Ariegeboy]

Congrats ! I'm working on my own external frame and I'm realy impress about this copy.

 

[nodakian]

I can't believe I missed this thread back in June. Great job, Woodbow!

What do you think of that XPE? I feel like it's stiffer than whatever Big K uses, and I could probably stand it for my own use. However, I wanted something more flexible for the kid packs I make, so I use 1/2" neoprene. I'd like to know where to get something lighter weight than Neoprene by more flexible than the XPE I got from Seattle Fabrics.

Any ideas what the majors use? I really like MR's foam.

 

[WhiteOak]

Do not have experience with sewing machines but from an electrical standpoint, can you install an in line rheostat to help control motor speed as is done for electrical resistance for lighting brightness, fan speed, and generator equipment?

 

[5shot]

Unfortunately, I think the loss in power would be a deal breaker.

Do not have experience with sewing machines but from an electrical standpoint, can you install an in line rheostat to help control motor speed as is done for electrical resistance for lighting brightness, fan speed, and generator equipment?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Carrydaily]

This is absolutely awesome! Want to make another?

 

[Bender]

Great job Woodbow! XPE is the stuff to use. It breaks down much slower than other foams, especially from a couple rides in depressurized luggage compartments. Zote foams are also pretty good. The smaller and more consistent bubbles will generally work better as the cell walls support each other and don't burst as easily. You are right on the brace casing not looking the greatest but that is from a production necessity. If the crossbar stretched that enough to look cleaner, it wouldn't be as easy to sew and tends to squeak when forced in the casing. For foam we use a clicker press but up in my R&D area I use a Tyto knife. Replaceable thin blades cut clean and help go around corners. You're right on about the belt molle reinforcing the 2" webbing. Sucks to sacrifice usable slots but it not failing is more desirable. If you get a chance at a Juki LU1508-NH, that's what we use here. Triple feed and has a reverse. Throw a size 23 gold plated needle in there and it will sew through anything. Good job man, a lot of effort went into that!

 

[Stitch]

Man this diy forum has been mega slow here lately. So i thought id share this recent project to stoke the fire.

A friend of mine is joining our group in CO this year to chase elk and mule deer. He has never done anything like that and has zero gear basically. I didn't want him to run a crappy pack so i told him i would have one for him to use. I have a frame i made a couple of years ago that actually functions very well, but it is a little bit ghetto and bags do not attach to it as easily. Since seeing tartan and some other guys on here build legit frames, i have had the itch pretty bad to build another. When kifaru released the lite frames, it was all the motivation i needed.

I based my design very heavily on theirs. I own a duplex that i used as a starting point for measurements and patterns. That helped a ton. Doing it so far away from season took all of the hurry out of it. I took my sweet time and enjoyed the process. Like every other project i do, design took 3 times as long as execution. Sewing is the easy part. I have 2 industrial sewing machines, a juki ddl552 and a singer 111w153, both which i lucked into for free somehow. I did finally give in and spend $100 for a servo motor. That was money very well spent! I used the juki for all of the lighter work and the singer for sewing through the foam and frame sheet. The sewing on the frame sheet is not what i would like it to be. I was tuning/fighting the machine as i went. By the end it was making beautiful seams. I will probably make another frame sheet because it bothers me that it isn't what it could be. Plus you learn stuff along the way that you want to do differently. My original design differed from kifarus a bit but eventually i realized the merits of their design and followed their lead. Pics are with kifaru composite stays in it. I had some that i took out of my duplex. I run arrows in the kifaru now. Though the kifaru stays match my back profile pretty much perfect, they kill my lower back for some reason. Like a severe cramping pain. They are too stiff to flex around my back when load is applied to the lifters as well. As i torque on the load lifters, they just want to pry the lumbar pad off of my back. I made composite ones for my previous diy frame. I will likely do the same again. It is not pictured here but i did add a brace across the top to stiffen things up. I did 2 arrow shafts bound together in a sleeve. It works fine but i plan to re work that aspect as well. I did not take many process pics but i will try to add the ones i did take.
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This is awesome! I'm working on doing something similar. Either copying Kifaru tactical or SG EVO. Would you be willing to give more details on your process? I've read everything I could find on your build here and on saddle. I have some detailed questions if you're up for it.