DIY Antler Mounts

I let it dry for at least a day, preferably with a fan on it.

Then you can apply the mop-n-glo, which dries pretty quick, but I still give it a day before covering it with the plaster/bondo, or whatever you are using to make the shape.

Did you do the second boil, or brush on, with whitening/degreasing agent? That will remove more of the smell. A lot of it will dissipate as the bone dries anyway, and if you let the meat rot on it, that may take a little longer.

By the time you get it all covered up, that should be gone. Again, just make sure to give it ample time to dry.

I've never noticed my antlers losing any shine, but they will anyway when they get a slight layer of dust on them. I wouldn't personally apply a coating to the antlers, it would make them far too shiny for my taste. If you have, or can get your hands on, a trash rack, you can experiment. But I wouldn't just brush it on your elk and hope for the best.

Hope all that helps!
Thanks, that does help! So you only coat the skull with mop and glo? I was under the impression that it gives just a light sheen that pretty closely matches what the antlers look like before getting washed.

For what I did, I only did a single boil with dawn (actually a simmer for several hours) and then the pressure wash. I have not done any degreasing as I'd wondered if it was necessary when it will be covered.

I'd thought of giving it a good saturation with acetone, maybe wrap a rag around the skull cap and keep it wet with acetone for a day. I don't think I want to submerge it unless I can get the bulk of the skull cap submerged without touchihg the antlers.
 
The skull plate will still be greasy after the flesh is gone. I would boil again with Dawn . Be careful about wiping the antlers off when they're hot. The color will come right off.
 
Thanks, that does help! So you only coat the skull with mop and glo? I was under the impression that it gives just a light sheen that pretty closely matches what the antlers look like before getting washed.

For what I did, I only did a single boil with dawn (actually a simmer for several hours) and then the pressure wash. I have not done any degreasing as I'd wondered if it was necessary when it will be covered.

I'd thought of giving it a good saturation with acetone, maybe wrap a rag around the skull cap and keep it wet with acetone for a day. I don't think I want to submerge it unless I can get the bulk of the skull cap submerged without touchihg the antlers.
Yes, only the skull, and only one coat.

Mop n glo is glossy. The skull bone is porous, and will take a single coat and be a nice satin color. The surface of the antlers is much harder and will be much shinier than natural, almost like you put a gloss lacquer on them.

I googled and found this from a How-to Taxidermy for restoring shine to antlers. I bet it's a MUCH better solution having used linseed oil:
Formula #11: antler brighter Use to brighten and improve the appearance of antlers that are dull and lifeless-looking.

Mix 3 parts of turpentine and 1 part of linseed oil. Apply this to the antlers with a brush or cloth and rub off with a dry cloth.


I think horn is a much better candidate for coating because it's made of keratin and naturally very matte, so you'd be bringing it to a similar surface finish as the bone. Though I left my Aoudad's horns uncoated because I like the natural look better (seen it done both in person.)

To get back to what you're doing though, degreasing isn't totally necessary, especially if you have a skull cap of a cervid that isn't going to hold a ton of grease, but it could likely help with the smell. And I wouldn't mop n glo the skull cap if it will be covered anyway. I doubt it matters in this case, but from a model building background, I'm a stickler for bonding material to material (skull cap to shaping medium) without a layer of coating between to prevent full adhesion.

I would not put your antlers in acetone, as it will most likely lift the color and deteriorate the shiny surface more if left soaking. I'm not sure a rag soaked in it would do much good, as it would evaporate long before it had any meaningful effect. Also, be very careful about leaving open acetone on a rag in your house. It won't spontaneously combust, but is HIGHLY flammable.

For full euro mounts, I follow the Whitebone guy on youtube and it works very well. Dump water used for boiling meat off skull and refill with fresh water and about 1/4 container of baquacil ($26 at the pool store.) That same mix will whiten any new skulls for another month or two in case you have another animal, then you still have half a bottle for the second half of the season.

I would just leave it as-is and let it air out in the garage for a week, maybe leave it out in the sun one day if you can keep an eye on it, then check the smell again. I bet it will be gone and this will all be for naught.
 
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