Disappointed in ELD-X/Tikka... Advice?

[Bomberodevil]

Well sure, the recoil difference is night and day... I'm not getting any younger and after about 12rds with the 7lb 7mm I'm done for the day. Almost wish I had gone with the PRC instead, but the guys I usually hunt with sold me on the Rem Mag. One, two, or (hopefully not) 3 rounds in the field wouldn't be an issue at all. Thumping away at the bench is a different story!

I hear what you’re saying about getting beat up behind the rifle. My thoughts are, life is too short to engage in activities that don’t make you smile. Unless you need the 7mm RM as the minimum cartridge for the game you are pursuing, I would sell it and get the cartridge that you can enjoy both hunting and range time. Don’t follow what a couple of your buddies are saying, follow what makes you happy.

 

[Harvey_NW]

My Tikka 7RM didn't like the precision hunter either, I wouldn't waste any more time or money on that ammo, find something else. Quite honestly out of 5 Tikkas of different calibers none of them liked Hornady ammo, but all of them would shoot cheapo Winchester Super-X power point very well.

 

[Pharmseller]

What are you hunting and how far are you shooting?

I‘ve been hunting and shooting for 45 years, and I have become less and less recoil tolerant. I used to shoot a 300 Weatherby Mag, until I realized I was giving up nothing by switching to a .30-06. I got into a 7mm Rem Mag when my brother bought one, then I transitioned to the 7mm-08 when I realized I was giving up nothing to the 7 Mag.

The lighter the recoil the better I shoot. Longer and more enjoyable practice sessions lead to better proficiency.

But it takes a comfort level to drop down in velocity that not every hunter can take.

7mm-08 shooting a 150 ELDX at almost 2800 fps MV is enough gun for me. Deer, elk, antelope so far.




P

 

[DangerRanger]

Some guns don’t like some loads ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I had a proof barrel once that shot 5/8 with eld match factory and 3” with precision hunter

Federal premium berger might be a decent option. I’ve been impressed with norma whitetail too for how cheap it is in other cartridges

 

[KenLee]

Some guns don’t like some loads ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I had a proof barrel once that shot 5/8 with eld match factory and 3” with precision hunter

Federal premium berger might be a decent option. I’ve been impressed with norma whitetail too for how cheap it is in other cartridges

I have a BLR 7mm-08 that shoots just under an inch with many types of factory ammo and groups 139 gr Superformance sst at 6 inches

 

[SloppyJ]

Not even apples to apples but I can't find a gun that likes ELDXs. Out of all of my guns, none of them shoot Hornady very well at all. I've kind of given up on anything precision based with that brand. Had great luck with Nosler bullets though.

 

[hereinaz]

Diagnosing problems in a heavy recoiling rifle adds a novel compounding factor. Heavy recoil in a light rifle exploits weaknesses that are hidden in heavier rifles, even if you don’t flinch.

A rifle moves during recoil before the bullet leaves the barrel. High recoil increases that movement significantly. Controlling recoil is critical.

The ability to shoot heavier rifles in smaller calibers cannot be used as a baseline for a heavy recoiling rifle. They are not the same.

So, if you have done everything you do on other guns, I would put the odds much higher that recoil is exploiting the shooter.

I have friends with recoil monsters that “don’t shoot” like their other rifles. They complain about the monsters, but don’t accept that their skill set might inadequate with little to no practice.

I have gotten behind a “2 inch” monster rifle and shot .75 groups. I hate it, recoil is unnecessary abuse and fighting flinch is real for me. After they see the rifle can shoot, sometimes they take some instruction from me. I usually slip in an empty case to prove they are also flinching when they mash the trigger.

Invariably, if they recognize what is happening, after a few minutes they can start shooting groups half the size with a little instruction and practice.

Getting a good recoil pad can reduce movement of the rifle for the short period while the bullet is in the barrel and help reduce flinch and other bad habits in form. That is what I would start with. If groups improve, you will know that at least a portion is recoil related.

 

[The Harbor Master]

I really appreciate all the input here. I'll start with a limb-saver and double check the free float, while being really careful about fundamentals and flinching.

To answer some questions; I don't "need" the 7mm RM any more than a 7mm-08 or something like a .280AI. This is a deer and elk gun, and will almost always be used inside of 400yds. But I wanted a flat shooter with "off the shelf" ammo options, that could potentially make up to 700yd shots with the energy to ensure proper expansion. I have a friend that shoots a T3x Lite in 7mm RM and he does well with it, hand loading 160gr Accubonds.

I have not sanded anything in the stock, I have read a little about guys clearing that channel out and even bedding... my thinking was that if I'm going to start "modding" the factory stock, I might as well look at after-market options. Currently I'm priced out of that, especially with cost of ammo trying to dial this in.

 

[Spoonbill]

I really appreciate all the input here. I'll start with a limb-saver and double check the free float, while being really careful about fundamentals and flinching.

To answer some questions; I don't "need" the 7mm RM any more than a 7mm-08 or something like a .280AI. This is a deer and elk gun, and will almost always be used inside of 400yds. But I wanted a flat shooter with "off the shelf" ammo options, that could potentially make up to 700yd shots with the energy to ensure proper expansion. I have a friend that shoots a T3x Lite in 7mm RM and he does well with it, hand loading 160gr Accubonds.

I have not sanded anything in the stock, I have read a little about guys clearing that channel out and even bedding... my thinking was that if I'm going to start "modding" the factory stock, I might as well look at after-market options. Currently I'm priced out of that, especially with cost of ammo trying to dial this in.

I’ve gone the aftermarket stock route because I hated the T3 stock. I recently bought another T3 and just replaced the stock with the newer T3x stock and a vertical grip. Comparing the two, I don’t think the aftermarket stock is worth the money, especially if you pay to have it bedded vs 20 minutes using a dremel. Just my 2 cents

 

[Gila]

I really appreciate all the input here. I'll start with a limb-saver and double check the free float, while being really careful about fundamentals and flinching.

To answer some questions; I don't "need" the 7mm RM any more than a 7mm-08 or something like a .280AI. This is a deer and elk gun, and will almost always be used inside of 400yds. But I wanted a flat shooter with "off the shelf" ammo options, that could potentially make up to 700yd shots with the energy to ensure proper expansion. I have a friend that shoots a T3x Lite in 7mm RM and he does well with it, hand loading 160gr Accubonds.

I have not sanded anything in the stock, I have read a little about guys clearing that channel out and even bedding... my thinking was that if I'm going to start "modding" the factory stock, I might as well look at after-market options. Currently I'm priced out of that, especially with cost of ammo trying to dial this in.

I would just try to get good groups then practice out to 400 yards. My Tikka T3 in .270 would shoot the Superformance ammo real good. You will get 100-150fps more but it should shoot flat. The SST bullet should be good out to 500 yards. Of course the need for speed comes at a price of more felt recoil. Until you shoot your rifle well and with confidence, no sense in looking beyond 400yds for now IMO.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I really appreciate all the input here. I'll start with a limb-saver and double check the free float, while being really careful about fundamentals and flinching.

To answer some questions; I don't "need" the 7mm RM any more than a 7mm-08 or something like a .280AI. This is a deer and elk gun, and will almost always be used inside of 400yds. But I wanted a flat shooter with "off the shelf" ammo options, that could potentially make up to 700yd shots with the energy to ensure proper expansion. I have a friend that shoots a T3x Lite in 7mm RM and he does well with it, hand loading 160gr Accubonds.

I have not sanded anything in the stock, I have read a little about guys clearing that channel out and even bedding... my thinking was that if I'm going to start "modding" the factory stock, I might as well look at after-market options. Currently I'm priced out of that, especially with cost of ammo trying to dial this in.

You can pillar, glass bed, and free float that factory stock for about $12.
Also, a 6.5 creed is 700 yards factory ammo elk gun that has light recoil and can easily be mastered by a grown man. Because of the chamber and ammo specs, they also tend to be super accurate with factory ammo. The kill thread is "only" 25 pages long
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/6-5-creedmoor-260-for-deer-elk-and-whatever-else.244973/

 

[silasbowhunter]

As much as I hate to admit, I also have to consider if I am becoming more recoil shy than I'd like... This AM I shot 3 strings of 3 rounds. The first was one of those random sub-moa groups at 0.53". The next 2 groups were 2.37" and 2.01" respectively. I tried to pay attention and make sure I didn't change anything, I really felt that my fundamentals were consistent for all 3 groups.



I appreciate the input. Maybe I need to re-verify the lug is seated properly. Am I way off with 45inlb rear and 50inlb front? From what I read that seems to be right in the middle of what's suggested.

I really appreciate all the input here. I'll start with a limb-saver and double check the free float, while being really careful about fundamentals and flinching.

To answer some questions; I don't "need" the 7mm RM any more than a 7mm-08 or something like a .280AI. This is a deer and elk gun, and will almost always be used inside of 400yds. But I wanted a flat shooter with "off the shelf" ammo options, that could potentially make up to 700yd shots with the energy to ensure proper expansion. I have a friend that shoots a T3x Lite in 7mm RM and he does well with it, hand loading 160gr Accubonds.

I have not sanded anything in the stock, I have read a little about guys clearing that channel out and even bedding... my thinking was that if I'm going to start "modding" the factory stock, I might as well look at after-market options. Currently I'm priced out of that, especially with cost of ammo trying to dial this in.

Are you letting the barrel cool between your 1/2” groups and your 2” groups? Or do the big groups always come after the the small groups?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harvey_NW]

Are you letting the barrel cool between your 1/2” groups and your 2” groups? Or do the big groups always come after the the small groups?

Blaming deviation from heat with 3 shot groups is typically to excuse random distribution of larger groups from small sample sizes. Most shooters won't go to the lengths of shooting sufficient sample sizes to prove it either, it's just a traditional fudd excuse.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

While my two 7RM tikka hunters shoot the 168gr berger hunting vlds great, not only was i not impressed with terminal performance, there's no need for the "extra" bullet weight and recoil. Barnes 139gr LRX and 140gr TTSX loads shoot <1MOA in those rifles and that's what I use.

That said, when Tikka finally gets off their arse and makes a left handed Roughtech I'll pick one up in .308. Why waste all that powder and my shoulder? I'm not shooting critters at 500+ yards. I can't even see that far anymore.

 

[venado mula]

I use only Barnes TTSX bullets, I have a factory Tikka #1 light sporter barrel, I zero at 100 yards and I get 1/4" MOA or tighter every time with factory ammo. When I stretch out the yardage, it's within 1/2-3/4" MOA. I've never had any accuracy issues with my rifle. I don't use NightForce scopes (don't know anyone running a NF scope for hunting purposes) so I don't have any experience with them. Make sure your scope rings are tight.

 

[Pharmseller]

700 yards is a loooong way.

Especially if you don’t practice regularly at that distance.





P

 

[Turkeytider]

I hear what you’re saying about getting beat up behind the rifle. My thoughts are, life is too short to engage in activities that don’t make you smile. Unless you need the 7mm RM as the minimum cartridge for the game you are pursuing, I would sell it and get the cartridge that you can enjoy both hunting and range time. Don’t follow what a couple of your buddies are saying, follow what makes you happy.

Sage advice for sure, particularly the older we get. Having said that, I have a Special Purpose 870 turkey gun that literally had me seeing stars the first time I shot it. Amazing the difference a slip on Limbsaver made!

 

[Go West Old Man]

I’ll suggest one more possible variable…., was the pic rail mounted before or after the Cerakote and did you bed the rail? It wouldn’t be surprising if the rail wasn’t perfectly flat or married to the receiver without any torque in the rail itself if it’s not bedded, and the Cerakote possibly could’ve complicated this even more if the rail was added after coating.

Earlier this year I was scoping a new semi-custom rifle with new rail and new rings. I’d read about bedding pic rails but was skeptical until I did sort of a prefit with the rail by lightly tightening the screws on the rail front end only. Sure enough, there was some lift on the back end. Enough to see some daylight through it and slide paper under it. I actually tried/tested this with two new rails from different manufacturers. One was steel and one aluminum. Same thing , so I bedded the rail (chose the aluminum) with JB Weld to be sure that any torque was eliminated.

 

[Boarmaster]

If I had any reason to believe that the issue was related to my recoil intolerance I would not spend another penny on my rifle. If I didn't think I could get over it then I would get a heavier rifle or the same rifle in a lower recoil chambering. I took my own advise 10 years ago and went from 270 wby mag to 7mm08. I’m much mo betta……. I reduced the recoil and the rifle weight. Happy happy happy.

 

[Turkeytider]

I’ll suggest one more possible variable…., was the pic rail mounted before or after the Cerakote and did you bed the rail? It wouldn’t be surprising if the rail wasn’t perfectly flat or married to the receiver without any torque in the rail itself if it’s not bedded, and the Cerakote possibly could’ve complicated this even more if the rail was added after coating.

Earlier this year I was scoping a new semi-custom rifle with new rail and new rings. I’d read about bedding pic rails but was skeptical until I did sort of a prefit with the rail by lightly tightening the screws on the rail front end only. Sure enough, there was some lift on the back end. Enough to see some daylight through it and slide paper under it. I actually tried/tested this with two new rails from different manufacturers. One was steel and one aluminum. Same thing , so I bedded the rail (chose the aluminum) with JB Weld to be sure that any torque was eliminated.

This rifle stuff does get complicated! I`ve about decided that things that can influence where a bullet hits is limited pretty much only by ones imagination!