Direct Thread Suppressor: How Tight to Stay Tight?

[peaches]

A wrap of Teflon tape helps when hunting. I use it on broadheads too.

 

[TaperPin]

I find it funny that guys who would never trust a barrel “snapped” into place trust a can. Running out of gas is the easiest car break down to prevent. Torquing barrels, action screws, scope mounts and a can is the gun equivalent of preventing running out of gas.

 

[rostkowski]

Hand tight, when I used to only do direct thread I would put just a tiny dab of Vibratight on the threads and I never had any issues, just periodically check it.

 

[Drenalin]

What about the direct thread mounts and end caps? Are you attaching those to the suppressor with Rocksett or some kind of thread locker?

 

[rookie7]

I have the same question as Drenalin. I have a Silencerco Scythe ti. I only hand tighten it, and it stays put during use. Although my longest string of fire with it has only been 21 rounds. The problem I am having is when I remove it from the rifle the direct thread mount remains on the rifle and the suppressor body unscrews from the mount cap. I then have to use a thick piece of leather and pliers to remove the cap from the rifle. I called Silencerco and the guy I talked to said I'm not getting the cap tight enough to the body with the bravo tool. He's wrong - It can't get any tighter.

So my research reads to add Rocksett or Vibratite to the threads when installing the direct mount to the can body. Anything I'm missing? thanks

 

[wind gypsy]

I have the same question as Drenalin. I have a Silencerco Scythe ti. I only hand tighten it, and it stays put during use. Although my longest string of fire with it has only been 21 rounds. The problem I am having is when I remove it from the rifle the direct thread mount remains on the rifle and the suppressor body unscrews from the mount cap. I then have to use a thick piece of leather and pliers to remove the cap from the rifle. I called Silencerco and the guy I talked to said I'm not getting the cap tight enough to the body with the bravo tool. He's wrong - It can't get any tighter.

So my research reads to add Rocksett or Vibratite to the threads when installing the direct mount to the can body. Anything I'm missing? thanks

That should do it. I had my DT insert stay on the barrel once with my scythe too. After cranking it back in good and a lot more carbon in the can it’s stayed put but rockset woulda been my next move.

 

[Ganderzone]

I've found that after two or three rounds I back the suppressor off and snap it back and have never had it come loose since. I believe it has something to do with the expansion rates of the barrel threads to the suppressor threads.

 

[Sundodger]

Taking a look at a standard 5/8 direct thread suppressor set up and it will always be a marginal at best joint from a probability standpoint. The L to D ratio is terrible (length to diameter), so it will always be at risk for coming loose in service.

Now, if someone were to have about an 1" of threads on the barrel, followed by 3-4" of machined down barrel diameter of .61" (even better if smaller), then the shoulder AND a suppressor designed to match this, you could torque it to 75% proof load and have a robust joint.

Keep in mind when I say it is an insufficient joint, I mean from an OEM industrial standpoint. Joints like the standard suppressor direct thread mount are completely unacceptable in this world.

 

[01Foreman400]

I add this and hand tighten.

 

[Longrangr]

My Q Half Nelson recommends 25 ft-lb. I typically go to about 15 ft-lb and use blue loctite. It does not get loose. When I hand tighten, I sometimes find that they get loose.