Difficulty reloading?

[Muleyczy]

Hey all, looking for some input/advice. I'm having difficulty reloading after the second shot. First (clean bore) loads like butter, second takes mild effort and third takes about all I got. I'm thinking its obviously fouling, but cant imagine that Its nearly impossible after two shots and requires swabbing/cleaning. Is there a simple fix, Im I doing something wrong?

Im shooting a TC Encore and Triumph 50 cal., loading110grn pyrodex triple seven pellets with 290grn Barnes TMZ or MZ bullets.

thanks

 

[EdP]

Here is a possible cause. BP residue is hygroscopic, meaning it picks up or gives off H2O to the air, depending on the humidity level. If what I have read about Pyrodex residue on the web is true, it has this same property. In a very dry environment BP residue quickly turns white and gets very hard and that can make loading difficult. In very humid conditions the residue turns to sludge and that causes ignition issues. Obviously neither is desireable. Generally, where I live, it is a winter/summer thing based on seasonal humidity levels, but the fix is the same. Reload immediately after shooting while the residue is still soft. The barrel gets wiped In the process of loading a ball or bullet. With the low humidity levels in Nevada your residue may be turning hard very quickly after a shot. I'd try reloading immediately and see if that helps your situation.

Best of luck

 

[Rich M]

That's how it works with some guns. I usually clean bore after a couple of shots - sometimes after every shot.

 

[sabotloader]

If you are using 209 ignition, more than likely you are going to have to run a damp patch before reloading. Especially with pellets. + do not use any petroleum products in the bore - synthetic oils only.

 

[Muleyczy]

Here is a possible cause. BP residue is hygroscopic, meaning it picks up or gives off H2O to the air, depending on the humidity level. If what I have read about Pyrodex residue on the web is true, it has this same property. In a very dry environment BP residue quickly turns white and gets very hard and that can make loading difficult. In very humid conditions the residue turns to sludge and that causes ignition issues. Obviously neither is desireable. Generally, where I live, it is a winter/summer thing based on seasonal humidity levels, but the fix is the same. Reload immediately after shooting while the residue is still soft. The barrel gets wiped In the process of loading a ball or bullet. With the low humidity levels in Nevada your residue may be turning hard very quickly after a shot. I'd try reloading immediately and see if that helps your situation.

Best of luck

There is quit a bit of white fouling that does turn hard. thanks

 

[Muleyczy]

If you are using 209 ignition, more than likely you are going to have to run a damp patch before reloading. Especially with pellets. + do not use any petroleum products in the bore - synthetic oils only.

Thanks. I guess I’ll add damp patches to the kit

 

[Rich M]

1/2 windshield wash (blue)
1/2 rubbing alcohol

Will clean your barrel

 

[EdP]

There is quit a bit of white fouling that does turn hard.

If you can't reload right after shooting, use a rag or something else to plug the muzzle and keep air from getting down the bore.

The other guys with experience with in-lines may have a better solution. My experience is with traditional muzzleloaders (flintlocks).

 

[sabotloader]

Thanks. I guess I’ll add damp patches to the kit

Here is an idea for those barrel swab patches..

 

[Muleyczy]

Here is an idea for those barrel swab patches..

Great thanks, I’ll give it a try.

 

[timmymac24]

You many look into mmp sabots and play with some different combos of sabots and bullets made my life easier. My buddy and I own the exact same TC ML and he has zero issues while my gun sounds similar to your issues. From what I’ve read it’s based on when the barrels are made early or late in the boring process.

 

[Muleyczy]

You many look into mmp sabots and play with some different combos of sabots and bullets made my life easier. My buddy and I own the exact same TC ML and he has zero issues while my gun sounds similar to your issues. From what I’ve read it’s based on when the barrels are made early or late in the boring process.

I’ll take a look thanks. What bullet and load are you shooting with them?

 

[timmymac24]

I know I was using TC shockwave bullets and Hornady SST's in 250 grain but I found a black sabot from MMP that was a whisker thinner and made my life easier. I don't recall off the top of my head which sabot it was but I bought several different ones from MMP and played around until I found the best match,

 

[GMB54-120]

The red 3 petal sabot that comes with SSTs is the exact same sabot as the MMP black 3P-EZ sabot. Its just dyed red for Hornady. This info came straight from Del the owner of MMP. (RIP)

MMP SABOTS : Store : Black 3Petal-EZ/50 Pcs

3Petal-EZ 50 × 451/452 Bullet Possibilities: 240 – 350 Grains Recommended Deer Bullet: 250 – 300 Grains

mmpsabots.com

T/C used different sabots with their Shockwaves. HPH-12 or HPH-24 IIRC. They also sold a 2 petal yellow sabot called SuperGlide that was even smaller.

Using a smaller sabot to get around the crud ring is not the way to go. Getting a sabot that fits your bore correctly is.

 

[Underclocked]

Your fouling problem would essentially go away if using BH209 but I can hardly recommend it at $100/lb. Plus it does bring it's own set of problems to the game.

 

[bdan68]

I had the same issue with the same bullet. So I tried Barnes TEZ bullets, and they load very easily. I was able to take more than a dozen shots in a row without any swabbing between shots.

 

[txhunter581]

Pyrodex is a good powder and I have used it in the past with good success. That said, it is dirty, and I always run a damp patch followed by a dry patch between each shot. If you do that, your issue will go away. Yes, it is quite a bit more work, but bullets will load easily and your accuracy will be consistent.

What is mentioned above is great, I would use what they suggest. But in a pinch you can lick one side of a patch and run it down. That works good too.

A lot is made of th 777 “crud ring” but pyrodex has always caused somewhat of a crude ring too.

 

[49ereric]

Hey all, looking for some input/advice. I'm having difficulty reloading after the second shot. First (clean bore) loads like butter, second takes mild effort and third takes about all I got. I'm thinking its obviously fouling, but cant imagine that Its nearly impossible after two shots and requires swabbing/cleaning. Is there a simple fix, Im I doing something wrong?

Im shooting a TC Encore and Triumph 50 cal., loading110grn pyrodex triple seven pellets with 290grn Barnes TMZ or MZ bullets.

thanks

My triumph is about the same with whatever I tried. 2nd shot hard.
was thinking it was the plastic sabot residue and will try some Hornets nest paper between powder and sabot.
I don’t hunt with it so no hurry.

 

[Muleyczy]

Your fouling problem would essentially go away if using BH209 but I can hardly recommend it at $100/lb. Plus it does bring it's own set of problems to the game.

I have some but haven’t yet tried it because gun shot great with 110grn of pyrodex with 290grn. I’ll have to play around and figure BH load

 

[Ucsdryder]

I was shooting 777 the other night with some Hornady FPB. I was cleaning every round and it was taking every ounce of strength I had to get the bullet down the barrel. It wore me out and I was out there by myself cussing up a storm. Got home and ordered a pack of bullets from thor to measure my barrel. I’m done killing my self trying to load that thing. I’ll get the correct bullet for MY barrel and be done with it. I’m getting angry just thinking about how hard it was loading those bullets.