Cutting Arrows from both ends

[Jake Leibke]

So Ive heard that if you cut an arrow from both ends you will bump up the straightness rating. Any truth to this? Will an average shooter notice a .006 between a .003 at longer distances?

 

[TEmbry]

Cutting it from both ends does nothing to change the straightness of an arrow from the factory, it just ensures both ends are squared off properly for a perfect seating of both BH and nock... And no for hunting purposes I don't think you will notice a difference whether or not you cut off the tail end or not.

 

[sneaky]

Cutting it from both ends does nothing to change the straightness of an arrow from the factory, it just ensures both ends are squared off properly for a perfect seating of both BH and nock... And no for hunting purposes I don't think you will notice a difference whether or not you cut off the tail end or not.

If your saw isn't cutting square then it won't square the ends. To the OP, each company measures their shafts for straightness tolerances differently. Some do it over a 28" span and some do it over the full uncut length. It will help with some brands and not with others. Trim a little off both ends and use a quality arrow-squaring device and go shoot. Average shooter won't notice much difference at all between .006 and .003 arrow shafts. It's more of a mental confidence boost than anything.

 

[RosinBag]

I would check with manufacturer recommendations. Gold Tips should be cut from both ends. Some Easton's are barreled or tapered and should only be cut from the front or it will change the spine and performance.

 

[TEmbry]

If your saw isn't cutting square then it won't square the ends. To the OP, each company measures their shafts for straightness tolerances differently. Some do it over a 28" span and some do it over the full uncut length. It will help with some brands and not with others. Trim a little off both ends and use a quality arrow-squaring device and go shoot. Average shooter won't notice much difference at all between .006 and .003 arrow shafts. It's more of a mental confidence boost than anything.

I just assumed everyone used one of those grind stones to remove spurs and square up the end after cutting.

But agreed, regardless which end you cut 99.99% of shooters won't notice a difference.

 

[Fred@Exterra]

I disagree to an extent. Carbon arrows are manufactured on a mandrel. They are allowed to cure for a while on the mandrel and then pushed off. During the process of being removed from the mandrel they can take a set on the ends. If you measure enough arrows you will find that the straightest section is in the middle. Cutting from both ends can yield a straighter shaft. Additionally, for max accuracy you want the straightest section on the nock end because a mis-aligned nock has more of an impact on accuracy than point (excluding large fixed broad heads). That being said, I only pull out these tricks when I buy cheap shafts. With a little work, you can turn .006 into .003 or better. If you are buying top shelf it isn't necessary.

 

[doverpack12]

I cut an inch off the back and the rest off the front. Gold Tips it can't hurt and you can buy Expedition Hunters and end up with a great shooting arrow. These at the same length and a 7595 spine will weight the same for a finished weight as maxima hunters

 

[OR Archer]

I dont cut from the nock end but do take the time to remove the knock and square the end just as I do the front.

 

[Travis Bertrand]

I would check with manufacturer recommendations. Gold Tips should be cut from both ends. Some Easton's are barreled or tapered and should only be cut from the front or it will change the spine and performance.

What Doug said.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

This might be common sense to some but make sure you spin your shaft when cutting it. If you do then there isn't much need to square it off, but it won't hurt anything if you do. I set up a die grinder so it only goes about 1/3 of the way through the shaft so I don't get a hostile projectile. As far as the round stone chamfer, I think that those do more harm than good due to the lack of control. I try to leave the cuts as is so that they are not rounded therefore more likely to not split. This makes pushing in the inserts a bit tricky but if I run into an issue I will just barely knock the burr off with a chamfer/deburr tool from my reloading tools.

 

[sneaky]

I just assumed everyone used one of those grind stones to remove spurs and square up the end after cutting.

But agreed, regardless which end you cut 99.99% of shooters won't notice a difference.

Oh man, you would be surprised at how many people don't use a squaring tool of some sort. I cut arrows at the shop and square them and they always ask "what's that for?" lol