Critique my build thought process - 700 Remington 300 WM - For Suppressor/ weight reduction

SoloWilderness

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Edited based on feedback:

I have a Remington Model 700, in the Sendero II 26" Stainless Bull Barrel Variety with a Witt Machine Works brake. It's a great rifle, that I really like how it shoots, how the action is, etc. It is a heavy gun (almost 12# w/ a harris bipod and 6-25 scope). My barrel is starting to show some signs of being shot out, so I'm starting the process of researching a rebuild. I would like to cut some weight, set it up for a suppressor, and tune up the action, etc. Don't have the budget for a full custom re-build from day 1 so I will be working on components over a couple years. Please provide some input and critiques on my thought process. Shooting out to 700 max (and primarily 300-500) for elk will be my focus. Not looking to build a PRC rifle. Shooting primarily 180-200gr handloads. Trying to keep the total build out under $3k, but it will be spread out a bit, so I have some wiggle room.

1. Step 1: Switch the barrel to a 22" Proof Research or C6 Sendero profile carbon barrel (1-10 twist). Alternately, and this is where I am still trying to decide: Switch to a Remage nut, and a Savage prefit, to allow for flexibility later should I decide to change barrel lengths... Have the smith blueprint the action while the barrel is being fit. Fit the threaded muzzle brake for my suppressor (until my suppressor gets out of jail).

2. Step 2: Add a suppressor, purchased a TBAC Ultra 7 gen 2 after spending quite a while at the shop talking through options with the gunsmith.

3. Step 3: Change out the stock to either a Carbon UL stock (looking at a Stocky's UL hunter) or a magnesium Chassis w/ foldable stock for packability (other than mule deer meat hunts, I am a backpack, backcountry wilderness hunter). (Current stock is a Bell and Carlson). Bed the stock, add an ARCA swiss plate so I can run with my tripod, switch to a lightweight detachable carbon bipod at this point too (Harris is reliable, but heavy, loud and kind of clunky). Pros and cons of various stock types. At this point hoping to get my build weight down to the #9 range, at which point my tripod and rifle weigh as much as just the rifle before).

4. Step 4: Upgrade the trigger and bottom metal to an external magazine, and a precision trigger. Any thoughts on this area? Looking at a Timney and a few others currently.

Any experiences building on the 700 Remington Stainless platform, particularly in 300WM are appreciated. Thanks.
 
Last edited:

madcalfe

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this is what id do.
blue print and slab the action.
Flute bolt and after market light weight firing pin
22" Proof Sendero or Sendero light with titanium brake (until suppressor show up)
whatever stocky carbon stock of your choosing (id go carbon hunter vertical grip)
Hawkins hunter bottom metal and hunter mag
Trigger tech diamond trigger
Spartan bipod or Atlas
should put you right around your price range
 

XLR

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Personally I think you are on the right track for everything! The only thing I would check on is the barrel length for the banish. I personally like to take the minimum length and add 2 inches. I have zero data to back any of that up but I want the most longevity out of that can possible so that is my reasoning. I would also consider going with the brake adapter vs the direct thread. The reasoning behind this is the brake will gather a lot of the carbon so it is not hitting your first baffle. Again no data to back that up on my end but the guys at Thunderbeast really preached this when I was talking to them especially with the shorter barrels!

As far as your rifles performance with the shorter barrel you will be just fine! You might lose 100-150 fps from the 26 inch barrel but elevation is easy to predict! Should still have plenty of energy to shoot an elk out to 700 as long as you do your job!
For the blueprinting/chambering I would make sure you get the firing pin bushed along with a good single point blueprint. Also make sure you get the rifle throated correctly for the bullet you want to run!

Obviously I am going to suggest the chassis on this part! Not only are the features going to be integrated into the chassis but the price point is something that is often overlooked! If you go with the stock you will be
Stock- $500
Hawkins Bottom Metal- $220
Bedding- $300
SRS hunter rail- $100
Rail Installation- $50
Just for all of those you are around 1170 into the stock. That is not factoring in the forend rigidity, folding ability, or easily being able to add accessories like slings studs or qd adapters if you want to down the road!

Trigger wise it kind of depends on how low you want to go! If you would like to go less than a pound stick with the Diamond, otherwise the Primary is a great trigger and you can get down to 1.5 lbs. Just some food for thought here but if you ever have any questions feel free to give us a call 970-241-1807 and I would love to chat with you about it! Although we only do chassis I have been around the block a time or two with rifle builds!
 

madcalfe

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after looking at stockys again the one that I said I would get was for a model 7 not 700 so id probably go with a mesa as well if you can afford the extra 200$
 

JPeters218

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If you think 26” is unwieldy then don’t go anymore than 20” barrel. Because a 7” can is going to put you at 27”. At 20”, even 18 you’ll easily have the velocity needed to shoot those ranges. Especially if you’re hand loading
 

madcalfe

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If you think 26” is unwieldy then don’t go anymore than 20” barrel. Because a 7” can is going to put you at 27”. At 20”, even 18 you’ll easily have the velocity needed to shoot those ranges. Especially if you’re hand loading
or better yet if your worried about velocities with going down to a 18-20" barrel in your 300wm, get the barrel chambered for 300wsm. you'll probably be around 2800fps +/- with a 20" tube shooting 180's in the 300WM I'm sure others on here can chime in for velocities with a 20" 300wm. I'm just basing that off this link. every barrel is different though and could get a fast one.


where as my custom 300wsm with a 20" proof barrel is shooting 180's at 2925fps with H4350.
 
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SoloWilderness

SoloWilderness

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or better yet if your worried about velocities with going down to a 18-20" barrel in your 300wm, get the barrel chambered for 300wsm. you'll probably be around 2800fps +/- with a 20" tube shooting 180's in the 300WM I'm sure others on here can chime in for velocities with a 20" 300wm. I'm just basing that off this link. every barrel is different though and could get a fast one.


where as my custom 300wsm with a 20" proof barrel is shooting 180's at 2925fps with H4350.
Thanks, I'm pretty committed to the 300WM at this point, due to what I've got invested into loading dies, load workups, etc, and the quantity of back-stocked loads I have on hand, so unfortunately this isn't an option currently. When the next re-barrel comes around, I may look to modify the caliber, my buddy has a 300WSM, and it's a pretty sweet rifle.

That article is actually the one that got me thinking harder about barrel lengths, as Stockys has the 18" in stock and on sale, but the 20" is backordered. I'm not super worried about velocity past my typical shooting range of 500 max. I was a dedicated archery hunter before I had my kiddos, so getting close isn't an issue. Just like to make sure I'm not investing all this time and effort into a sub par setup. Seems like there is kind of a sweet spot with length.

I'll probably start by narrowing down my suppressor choices then chat with the manufacturers about their recommendations.

Appreciate everyone's input, this will be my first build, so want to make sure I'm approaching it the right way.
 

Seamaster

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I am a fairly serious hobbyist gunsmith and have done a M700 300 WM for my primary elk rifle. Mine has taken quite a few elk. I think you are going to be disappointed by going to such a short barrel. Frankly I have never found it a burden to use a longer barrel on an elk hunt unless you are on horseback. I would use a good quality 24" stainless steel barrel with a contour similar to the standard sporter barrel to cut some weight and bed it into a lightweight stock. Those changes alone will probably result in an 8 1/2 lb. rifle.

Change the trigger to a Timney or Triggertech, use a 28 lb. Wolf spring, perhaps true the action, and thread the barrel for a Banish 30, 30 Gold, or TBAC. Go elk hunting.

Truing ("Blueprinting") the action might help a bit, but if you currently have good contact with your lugs and your rifle shoots well you will probably not see much improvement in a hunting rifle. Some smiths are good at truing 700 actions, others really are not.
 

chutinlead

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I won't say anything bad about the Banish Suppressor since I am waiting on mine and really like the versatility and ability to clean it, but I might look at some of the newer welded suppressors for a dedicated hunting can.

If you have never visited Pewscience, I suggest checking out all the cans they have reviewed.

One of the more recent reviews they did was a hunting focused can that really punched above its weight class.
 
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SoloWilderness

SoloWilderness

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I am a fairly serious hobbyist gunsmith and have done a M700 300 WM for my primary elk rifle. Mine has taken quite a few elk. I think you are going to be disappointed by going to such a short barrel. Frankly I have never found it a burden to use a longer barrel on an elk hunt unless you are on horseback. I would use a good quality 24" stainless steel barrel with a contour similar to the standard sporter barrel to cut some weight and bed it into a lightweight stock. Those changes alone will probably result in an 8 1/2 lb. rifle.

Change the trigger to a Timney or Triggertech, use a 28 lb. Wolf spring, perhaps true the action, and thread the barrel for a Banish 30, 30 Gold, or TBAC. Go elk hunting.

Truing ("Blueprinting") the action might help a bit, but if you currently have good contact with your lugs and your rifle shoots well you will probably not see much improvement in a hunting rifle. Some smiths are good at truing 700 actions, others really are not.
Thanks, my biggest concern with length is the addition of the suppressor to the barrel, with my brake, I'm sitting at a 27" barrel, which I'm used to, trying to stay at this length or +1" overall. Biggest concern with going too much shorter is that the rifle will not be great until I get the can on it. The area we hunt regularly is thick with oak brush (think 1500'+ vertical climbs on 45' slopes on animal trails.) Rifle is great at its current length once I'm out of the brush, but it sucks dragging it through the brush. This is the feedback I've been looking for, as I have very little experience with shorter barrel rifles. If I go with a folding chassis stock, this concern will be moot.
 

Formidilosus

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Thanks, my biggest concern with length is the addition of the suppressor to the barrel, with my brake, I'm sitting at a 27" barrel, which I'm used to, trying to stay at this length or +1" overall. Biggest concern with going too much shorter is that the rifle will not be great until I get the can on it. The area we hunt regularly is thick with oak brush (think 1500'+ vertical climbs on 45' slopes on animal trails.) Rifle is great at its current length once I'm out of the brush, but it sucks dragging it through the brush. This is the feedback I've been looking for, as I have very little experience with shorter barrel rifles. If I go with a folding chassis stock, this concern will be moot.


An 18” 300WM is not an issue, you lose 20-30fps per inch with every cartridge out there with optioned loads- there are no cartridges that are more “efficient” with shorter barrels.

Carbon barrels tend to be more finicky, are bot lighter, and do not solve heat issues. Having used dozens of them, I would much rather choose a lighter weight steel barrel.

The trigger should be replaced ASAP, and would be the first thing I would do to a M700 or clone.
 

Axlrod

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Another trigger to consider is the Bix n Andy Tac sport. I have a few of them and they are very good.
 

chutinlead

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Thanks, my biggest concern with length is the addition of the suppressor to the barrel, with my brake, I'm sitting at a 27" barrel, which I'm used to, trying to stay at this length or +1" overall. Biggest concern with going too much shorter is that the rifle will not be great until I get the can on it. The area we hunt regularly is thick with oak brush (think 1500'+ vertical climbs on 45' slopes on animal trails.) Rifle is great at its current length once I'm out of the brush, but it sucks dragging it through the brush. This is the feedback I've been looking for, as I have very little experience with shorter barrel rifles. If I go with a folding chassis stock, this concern will be moot.
Split the difference if it bugs you and go 22". I built a 7SAUM at 18", but sold it for parts and went to a 20". I'm still able to get 175gr bullets to 2800fps which was my goal.
 

280rem

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Some of these ideas bounce through my mind as well. In my opinion, I wouldn’t go shorter than 20” but longer than 22” will probably give you the unwieldy feeling. Holy smokes a 20” and especially 18” barrel are going to extremely loud to you with out a suppressor.
I will offer this, I did just get my nomad TI and am very pleased with it so far, still waiting on my banish 30, so unfortunately can’t offer a comparison between those. But would not hesitate to recommend or get another nomad TI and still possibly is the better choice of the 2 for a lightweight hunting can
 

264 MHC

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My advice on the stock is to shoot a rifle with a chassis before you buy one. I know a lot of people love them and the adjustability is great but I tried an XLR Element 3.0 with the carbon stock and just did not like how it felt shooting it. The recoil just seemed more violent. It was a very nice piece of equipment with great modularity but just didn't work for me. I went back to a traditional carbon stock that was lighter (even including bottom metal) and it really made a difference for me.

As far as barrel length, anything over 22" will definitely be unwieldy with a suppressor., under 20" is no problem at all. On the other hand, 300WM takes a lot of slow burning powder for best performance. I would probably go 20" and stick to 180 class bullets to keep velocity up. I would think 3000 with a 180 would be doable in a 20", but even if you only get 2900 that should be plenty.

Going the remage route will definitely be cheaper and I have done a few that way myself. Another option is to have your gunsmith take headspace measurements on your action after truing it so they can spin up another barrel down the road without the action in hand so you don't have to give the gun up for a few months.

Hawkins Hunter DBM is a good recomendation.

For a Hunting gun, I love my Triggertech Primary at 2lbs. Personally don't see the need to spend the money on the Special or Diamond.
 

Mojave

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I think the thread tennon on a savage is different than on a Remington.

You can use a remage system, but it won't be with a savage pre-fit.
 
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