Critique my arrow build - Newbie

[galamb]

Yes, you can heat them out with a heat gun - just have to really keep an eye, you can damage the carbon - boiling water also works for some but don't use an open flame (torch).

Or if you plan on re-fletching anyhow just strip the vanes, bare shaft shoot them (can do years of reading on bare shaft tuning) and then cut them down 1/4 or 1/2" at a time from the nock end until you like how they fly - refletch and shoot away.

 

[Billy Goat]

I shoot some "old" hunters that I use for target with my recurve - 5575's which are now the 400's and 7595's which are now the 340's - they are both built "heavy".

The 400's weigh 478 grains and the 340's are 545 grains (both cut at 30.5")

Chrono'd at 3' I'm getting 187 fps average for the 400's and 175 fps for the 340's - so 67 grains difference I'm seeing 12 fps which sounds pretty close to the 5 grains = 1 foot rule of thumb.

That's what I based my "closer to 8 fps" on.

Those are stickbow rules. For my setup with compounds, usually 60-75# 28-29" I find 3 grains per fps. It's not exact, depends on how close you are to 5 gr/#.


I honestly hardly ever chrono my stick bows, really don't worry too much about it.

 

[galamb]

Thanks, good to know about the 3 grains.

I "made the switch" from Longbow to Compound back in about 1995.

That was when the relatively new static charts gave two options - release or finger shooters. I never shot with a release - there was only a couple models and they were kinda unreliable.

Never really took to the compound so a couple years later I bought a custom recurve which I have used to for deer ever since. Still shoot the compound once in a while just in case one day I see the need again.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Between you and galamb, I think I’ll give the Hunters a shot. If I can’t get them to shoot, I’ll reconsider. Is there any way to (successfully) remove glued in inserts? Wouldn’t mind taking them out, sawing them down to 29”, and replacing with the 25gr IW inserts.

The "drill bit method" sometimes works: pull the nock out, insert a drill bit slightly smaller than the shaft ID (7/32" or 15/64" bit should work for a GT Hunter) with the flat end of the bit pointing toward the front end of the arrow, grab the arrow by the nock end, point the arrow up then fling it downward so the drill bit slides forward and hits the backside of the insert and (hopefully) knocks the insert out.

If you're okay with a shorter arrow, just cut them behind the current insert and install a new insert. I believe GT Accu-lite inserts are about 1" long.

Iron Will doesn't make any inserts for .246" shafts BTW.

 

[Hschweers]

The "drill bit method" sometimes works: pull the nock out, insert a drill bit slightly smaller than the shaft ID (7/32" or 15/64" bit should work for a GT Hunter) with the flat end of the bit pointing toward the front end of the arrow, grab the arrow by the nock end, point the arrow up then fling it downward so the drill bit slides forward and hits the backside of the insert and (hopefully) knocks the insert out.

If you're okay with a shorter arrow, just cut them behind the current insert and install a new insert. I believe GT Accu-lite inserts are about 1" long.

Iron Will doesn't make any inserts for .246" shafts BTW.

You’re right! Those were the inserts I was looking at for the .204 Airstrikes. Humph. Guess I’ll test em as is!