You described a lot of how I intend to skeletonize my stock and chassis. I will only have room for a 4 inch ARCA rail on the forend in front of the magazine well. I am probably going to run the cheap plastic AR stock on my chassis cause it is the lightest option I have found.
I already leave my bipod behind, cause I can shoot off my pack or my tripod in prone. And, prone shots are much less common than having to get up off the ground.
I may as well list everything I am doing for my rifle, as some has also been mentioned already. I have given it a lot of thought. It won't be a "pretty" rifle, and it won't be traditional. All customish and purpose for long range backpacking for deer and javelina.
My elk/long range rifle is 7 sherman short mag rifle with suppressor and it weighed 11 pounds 4 oz for the match last weekend, with my sling attached. I haven't figured out the weight for my little pack rifle I am building, but it will be significantly less, and is maximized to cut weight AND cut recoil so it can remain accurate. I haven't even an educated guess as to what my pack rifle will come in at, but it will be as light as possible.
For the light weight build, my smith has a Howa Mini action that is shorter and lighter than even some TI actions. I chose a full sized so he is opening the bolt face from a Grendel, but it is still a short 6mm BR case that saves weight on brass but performs pretty close to a .243 with a 20 inch barrel. Bullets will be 95 or 87 grain hunting bullets and will be above terminal velocity on game as far as I am planning. The barrel is a Sendero Light profile Proof Carbon Fiber 22" and will give a conservative effective range of 600 yards for the canyons here in AZ. I will run a suppressor sometimes. If not for long range capability, it would be a lot shorter. The magazines are also small and plastic, might even be lighter than even aluminum BDL bottom metal. I won't give up magazines to save weight...
Someone mentioned the scope. I am also dropping from 35 mm tube MK 5 to a 30 mm tube and went with the 44mm LHT from Vortex. And, I am planning on direct mount Hawkins Precision rings to cut out the weight of a picatiny rail, though I will probably have to modify the rings or my action. That saves a good proportion of weight.
Also on barrel length. I run longer barrels on my long range rifles for velocity. But, for anything inside "normal" hunting ranges I would run between 16 and 20 inches for sure. And, I would not go magnum and carry the extra weight of the brass and bullets. A .243 cartridge can weigh a LOT less than a 300 win mag. A shorter barrel can also be smaller profile because there is less whip. A 7-08 ackley improved is a solid option, just behind a 280 and 284, and can run in short action for sure. You can save pounds if you go with a shorter/smaller profile barrel and short action cartridge.
The difference in velocity between an 18 inch .243 and a 20 inch is negligible for any ballistic or terminal effect inside 400 yards on a typical short action cartridge. Even down to a 16 inch its not very material. The only thing is you get a lot more muzzle blast with short action cartridges below 18 and magnum cartridges below 20-22 inches depending on the size of the powder charge. My "coyote" bolt action barrels are a .243 shooting light bullets and 16.1 inches long and threaded for my suppressor.
For my next 7 sherman short mag, I am cutting 4 inches off the length and going to a 22 inch. The powder charge in that caliber is significantly less than a 7 rem mag, so 22 inches is a very effective barrel length and doesn't have the muzzle blast like a 7 rem mag.
When I went buffalo hunting, which is from a blind or in a meadow at most 200 yards up in the Kaibab, I found the shortest .308 barrel I could find. I wish it would have been 16, but it was 20.