Coyote Trapping

[JordanAdams]

I've been testing my luck at trapping coyotes for a couple years now with no luck. I'm slowly starting to narrow it down i feel like but I love hearing tips and tactics from when others first started trying to trap them and the things learned along the way. Favorite baits/lures, best size of foothold trap to use, how long do you like the chain, what sinkers/steaks work well, what do you scout for, do you use coyote poop at sets, trench method, where do you like to set traps (river bottoms, washed out gullies, open flats, timber thickets, around possible dens), I'm always lookin to learn something new that could be the game changer. Thanks in advance!

 

[Outlaw99]

If I could only have one thing to trap coyotes, it’d be GOOD urine. There’s very few sources of quality pure urine regardless of what others will say. Lure and bait have their place as well, but nothing Is as go to for me as quality urine. I set on sign; you can’t catch em where they aren’t at, and just cause you think it’s a perfect spot or saw a coyote there one time, doesn’t mean they’ll ever be there again. Tracks and scat show where they are and what they’re doin. Pm me if you have any specific questions, I tend To ramble too much on this topic

 

[Boiler]

Dirt holes and snares seem to be the most effective for me.

 

[johnsd16]

I’m mostly a snare guy, but as above, set on sign, bed traps well including inside the jaws, and be conscientious of scent. Most important is no lure, urine or blood on the trap or in the bed. The coyote will know there was a guy there no matter what but they often investigate where humans were looking for dropped food, wounded birds, etc. it’s important they don’t focus ANY attention on the trap.

I like Bridger #3 OS 4 coiled, baseplated, end swiveled, outside laminated with PIT pans, or MB-550s. I also have some bridger #2 set up the same way. I’m also more partial to flat sets than dirt holes but that may be due to learning to trap in MN where there’s lots of coon and possum. I would also recommend getting proficient at making 1-2 kinds of sets real well to speed up time at the set and quality. This will allow you to get more high quality sets out rather than trying to make a bunch of different sets.

 

[Billy Goat]

Also a fan of the Bridger #3. I run offset modified 4 coil dogless baseplate and three swivels. Mostly run rebar stakes crossed through a double plate swivel connected to spring in the end of 12" of chain.

I mostly use good urine, some other scents. I try to specifically target coyotes. Still catch a few coon and fox but not many. I find a small tree or a clump of grass or anything that sticks out as something my dog would run over to piss on. In fact in some areas I take him with me and will put a set on something if he seems to have noticed it and specifically went to go pee on it.

I almost always wear hip boots while setting. Make sure your trap is bedded well and doesn't move. Helps to have a slightly high spot over the pan I have been told, makes them more apt to step there.

I set pan tension so I can put a 20oz bottle on the pan without it going off. Makes them commit to stepping, harder for them to pull back quickly resulting in a tow catch.

If good fences are around snares work really well.

Most of my trapping is targeted at problem animals that are targeting livestock. So I'm not out to maximize catches, just problem coyotes.

 

[ManBearGoose]

Favorite baits lures/scat: I typically stay away from baits of any sort. I’ve had far more success with gland lures. I typically use two different lures at a set. One “call” lure and one mild lure. Post and flat sets have worked the best for me, and the terrain dictates which I use. I’ll through out an occasional dirt hole, but I find them to work better for fox and raccoon. As far as using scat, I refer to it as gold. If I have any available, I will use it as “fencing” for the trap. Post on the upwind side, trap bed, and then 2-3 inches downwind of the trap I will place the scat. Give the scat a little shot of urine to freshen it up. I hope that makes sense.

trap size chains and stakes: for coyotes I like #3 sized traps and MB550’s. I really like the MB’s. I also use modified Bridgers. Don’t rule out Dukes either, they require a bit more modification but are very solid and inexpensive. I run 2 and 4 coil, and honestly don’t see much of an advantage to 4coil. Solid pan tension and good bedding is far more important than the spring strength, IMO. I like very short chains attached to the center of base. Three inline heavy Swivels, with 2-3 chain links between each swivel. I use two staking methods based on the terrain. If I can drive a stake, I prefer the bullet point style stakes made by fox hollow attached to 16” of chain. I keep these chain stakes permanently attached to the trap chain. The second method I use is a quick build/release cable system that I can wrap around a log or something heavy to create a drag. It’s very light and works very well with things you find outside. I would be happy to provide details.

Locations/scouting: scouting is pretty simple, like others have said, look for tracks/scat/coyotes. Locations can be a bit more complicated. Rolling hills with not a lot of big saddles or transitionary zones I like to set in the low spots between hills. If the vegetation is low to the ground, a post set is my go-to. And make the post very obvious. Try to determine the predominant wind direction and make your set on the downwind side. As far as actual sets, I like to leave the dirt covering the pan lower than the surrounding area by about half an inch. Don’t get carried away with fencing around the trap, less is more. With bobcats you can literally outline the whole trap and it helps, but coyotes are more wary. Timbered areas (and all areas) I look for natural funnels and make my sets there. Washes are great, and I’ll make sets in the narrow points and also the areas of entrance/egress to the wash. Look for the paths of least resistance, and those are your likely hot spots.

Dens: active dens are very very obvious. They are also used for very brief and specific periods of the year, so in my opinion are not worth the effort of looking for UNLESS you are doing specific control work or trapping in late spring. Dens are a whole other animal in it of themselves.
I love talking about trapping and am happy to share knowledge.

 

[Nuke Man]

I run predominantly dirt hole sets in midwestern ag country. Sometimes a urine post but not often. Started with Bridger #3's but have moved to only running MB550's on a chained super stake. Bedding is key to k9 trapping. Bed it solid with a pan cover and waxed dirt. I prefer waxed paper for pan covers especially later season with freezing and wet conditions otherwise I've ran coffee filters early season with peet moss. I run a 2inch auger down as far as it'll go for my dirt hole. I use bait on sheeps wool and get it down deep. For bait I run Reuwsaat's fatal step, Dunlap's soul taker or Hoosier Trapper Top Dog. I dont regularly use lure. But a good urine is a must. I like Reuwsaat's sprayed out of a squirt bottle. And know your primary wind direction when setting. And always make 2 sets atleast at a location. After a catch I reset the same trap in the same bed within the catch circle. I dont get too hung up on scent control. I usually set/check in the same bibs I done chores in, same boots I wore all day. I do use gloves when setting and will use a different set for makes and baiting.

 

[mdp22]

This i great stuff. Never trapped before. I’m considering getting a coyote trapping kit offered by several of the online companies out there.

I’ve wondered if the strong winds here in eastern New Mexico will affect the covering of the sets. There’s not alot of places to set snares which I would like to start with.

 

[Outlaw99]

This i great stuff. Never trapped before. I’m considering getting a coyote trapping kit offered by several of the online companies out there.

I’ve wondered if the strong winds here in eastern New Mexico will affect the covering of the sets. There’s not alot of places to set snares which I would like to start with.

Mdp, how close is Clovis to Maljamar?

 

[mdp22]

Mdp, how close is Clovis to Maljamar?

130 miles, straight north of Lovington.

 

[Outlaw99]

Well you’re within 130 miles of one of the bests when it comes to all things predator trapping. Wayne Derrick is his name, and he’s killed more coyotes than mange lol. He also makes some great lure, and is one of the few sources left to get raw, unfiltered, pure coyote urine. His website is www.Derricks-nm.com or you can pm me for more information if you want to call him up

 

[mmanincor]

Great info.. I would also add that small points that run out into a field, the "y" were 2 logging roads split, openings in tall grass between fields are also good sets. As mentioned if a spot is good enough to set a trap, why not set 2 or 3 traps with in 15 - 30 feet of each other.

 

[Team4LongGun]

Great info-tagging in

 

[Yarak]

Trapping 12 days in Feb and getting rained out then trapping 16 days in May my tally on coyotes was 19
I'm using MB550 and NO-BS Coyote traps
My GoTo sets are dirt hole and step down dirt hole (some call a trench set)
I use several different baits and lures but I always use sheeps wool. turkey feathers and a bone from a deer or hog for a visual aid
The traps are 12" from the center of the pan to the hole and turned to 1-2 oclock position to the hole. Pan tension is 2-3 pounds
Yes a good bait and lure are a must but bedding that trap so it doesn't move is essential to catching yotes and let us not forget trap placement. I always pay attention during deer season (Oct-Jan) and during turkey season (Mar-Apr) where I see coyote movement on roads and trails then set my trap accordingly when the time comes

 

[pirogue]

Dirtholes is about all I’ve done.

 

[Blueticker1]

Coyote urine and Wayne Derrick are all you need to know, call up Wayne for sure. Haha had to edit because outlaw99 beat me to it. Wayne has probably killed more coyotes than parvo and mange

 

[Redwood]

If you know of a good coyote trapper in your area see if you can do a few ride alongs with them. I talked to a local trapper who puts up a lot of coyotes every year and helped him set his line and learned more useful information a few days than I did in four years of running my own line and reading forums.

 

[IdahoFF85]

I just started trapping two years ago and learned/agree with a lot of previous mentions. The #3 bridger worked great for me. Dirthole or natural cubby sets with a small chunk of beaver meat tucked in them or blind trail sets worked the best for me. I got into the game for taking care of problem yotes, cased out thier routes and laced em with footholds. My dirthole sets caught more fox and skunks than yotes tho.