Practice good woodsmanship first off. If the coyote sees, hears, or smells you he isn't coming in most of the time. I think this is the biggest area where people mess up and more important than anything else.
Have something to break up your outline where you sit and get elevation above where a coyote should come from if possible. I personally am more particular about camo for predators than anything else. I like to cover my face and hands plus have camo that matches my area. To do this cheap they make leafy or ghilly suits that go over whatever else you wear. I figure especially when hand calling I'm telling the coyote exactly where I am and trying to spot him from wherever he comes from before he spots me. The coyote has the advantage in that situation. They don't see color but they see movement very well. I want every advantage I can get.
Always be able to shoot your downwind side before a coyote smells you on a stand. Coyotes like to circle downwind of a call to check it out.
Try to find spots to call from that give you the advantage. I like to have a terrain feature that the coyote will feel safe using to come to the call without winding me, and that I can get to without him spotting me. Using a tree row, fence row with brush, ravine, something coming off the main block of country where I think the coyote is that will help funnel him to where I want to shoot him. If he does what I want I have to do less moving to shoot him and have less chance of getting busted.
Be ready for them to show up anywhere, that doesn't always work
Smart coyotes I have better luck using an electronic call and letting them approach the caller from downwind without catching my scent while doing it. I get everything ready before going to set the call so I can get it set and be back out as fast as possible, less risk of me getting scented. I put a little scent like Coyote Juice or a coyote urine next to the call and put a decoy up next to it. Again, I have this ready so I can get it set up and be hidden where I won't get smelled as quick as possible. I use some scent control spray on myself and wear rubber boots when I do this too. When this works the coyote approaches the call and can use sight, smell, and hearing to verify there is something there to check out.
I don't use barks, barks are generally a sign of alarm. I generally use long not aggressive howls as my only coyote vocalizations. Rabbit calls have not worked as well for me in recent years as more people call. I try a bird distress on a mouth call or use something odd off my E caller.
Silence kills too, I try not to over call. On a calm day I might call for 30 seconds and be quiet for 3 minutes. Especially with hand calls movement is necessary to call and a coyote can pin point that sound's location. The less I can move while still getting him to come in, the better chance I feel I have to get him shot. Decoys can help with that too drawing their attention away from you.
Practice shooting! Everyone who calls coyotes misses some, but the less that get educated instead of killed the better. I like the Primos Rapid Pivot bipods best for a shooting rest for predators in more open country, the shooting stick version that doesn't attach to the gun better in tight spots. I shoot most of my coyotes between 60 and 120 yards calling but I get some closer and some further. My set-ups are intended to get them around that distance, it's a high percentage shot for me while not being so close that I get busted very often. I don't try to see how close I can get one like some people, first good shot I get at a stopped coyote I'll take.
