could use a hand with tikka barrel removal

[Macintosh]

I could use some advise on this tikka barrel removal. I've done several before, so am not totally new to this, although I dont have so much experience that I know everything. This one is BY FAR harder to remove than any I've done before. I'll try to lay out what I've done and the result here. If you think there's something else I should realistically try, I'd love to hear that. Failing that, anyone have a recommendation for a smith who is very experienced with tikkas and would likely be able to help?

Removing the factory barrel from a blued tikka CTR purchased new in 2019. The barrel has never been removed before. The barrel is NOT shot-out and I want to keep it, so I'm trying to avoid cutting the barrel to remove it.

I have the barrel vise mounted on one end of a 8' long 300-ish lb workshop table. 2x6 framing with a 3/4" plywood deck. The barrel is NOT spinning in the vise, and the table isnt moving significantly. I have had the action soaking in liquid wrench for over 2 weeks now. At first I was using one of the cheap amazon outside action wrenches, and realized that it was deforming the metal on the action wrench--just a cheap tool, it worked for my other tikkas but did not work for this one. So I purchased a wheeler action wrench, and that isnt budging it either, even using a big hammer. The action wrench is attached below the barrel threads, so I am not squeezing the threads. I received advise to get it cold, then heat the action with a torch. I did so, but I dont want to overheat the metal, so I only got it barely hot enough to sizzle a drop of water, and that did nothing. At this point if I reef on it harder, I'm 100% certain I'm going to damage something.

Any tips or tricks anyone knows?

Failing that, any smiths anyone can recommend that would likely be able to do this without cutting the barrel off?

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

What hammer are you using on the wheeler wrench? Is the wrench tight so there is no rattle or play on the action? Is the bench moving at all? I realize these things seem elementary but when trying to separate the barrel from the action, vibration is your friend. My method involves a post mounted vice bolted to concrete floor, barrel vice, and an action wrench with a 3lb sledge. With everything tight tight, one smack with the sledge loosens it every single time. If youre using a carpenters hammer or similar try a sledge, if anything has any give (including the bench flexing or shifting) it can and will make it more difficult. DM me with your phone number if you want and I can see if im of any help.

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

I’d get a really long cheater bar and just keep tension and bounce on it( not with your body weight). This worked for me when all else failed. I just kept the pressure and eventually it popped loose 2 barrels.

I did everything you did as well. soaked, heat, hammer.

I eventually mounted my vise so the barreled action was vertical, I found this easier.

Edit: I pulled the bar off my floor Jack and slipped it over the handle of the action wrench.

 

[Andouille]

Can you apply constant tension (70-80 ft lbs) with am internal wrench, then whack external wrench with a 3-5lb hammer? This combo has worked exceedingly well for me.

 

[Macintosh]

Can you apply constant tension (70-80 ft lbs) with am internal wrench, then whack external wrench with a 3-5lb hammer? This combo has worked exceedingly well for me.

yes, tried this several times. did not budge.

 

[Truck24hr]

yes, tried this several times. did not budge.

Did you try that with the heat?

 

[Macintosh]

What hammer are you using on the wheeler wrench? Is the wrench tight so there is no rattle or play on the action? Is the bench moving at all? I realize these things seem elementary but when trying to separate the barrel from the action, vibration is your friend. My method involves a post mounted vice bolted to concrete floor, barrel vice, and an action wrench with a 3lb sledge. With everything tight tight, one smack with the sledge loosens it every single time. If youre using a carpenters hammer or similar try a sledge, if anything has any give (including the bench flexing or shifting) it can and will make it more difficult. DM me with your phone number if you want and I can see if im of any help.

I'm using a heavy framing hammer--40oz I think, not sure. It's not a 3lb sledge, but its not far from it. Yes, action wrench has 1 layer of paper drywall tape between the wrench and the action, and it is tight enough there is zero wiggle. The only thing I can think of is if the 2x6 framing/plywood tabletop is still allowing enough flex that it is acting as a cushion and preventing the wrench torque from being applied efficiently.

 

[Macintosh]

Did you try that with the heat?

yes

 

[bojangles808]

Friends and I gave up and used a a pipe wrench on the last 3 we did. It leaves marks but I sanded them down and still could use it again if I wanted

 

[Marbles]

How many times have you hit the wrench with a hammer? As long as you are not doing damage I would get north of 100 solid wacks before giving up.

Sorry, but the stupid question must be asked, are you turning it the correct direction?

You could try a warm action with dry ice on the barrel to avoid over heating the steel, be get a larger temp difference to maximize barrel thread contraction and expansion of the action.

My guess is you have galling given the age and the only solution may be to trash the barrel, or use the barreled action as is.

A compromise (assuming the barrel is long enough to sacrifice an inch) might be putting the action in a vise, reverse threading the end of the barrel, the putting a large left hand threaded nut on it and using an impact. Then have a gunsmith cut it back and thread.

To be honest that sounds like an expensive solution and given the barrel length will all absorption of the energy before getting to the threads, one that might still not work.

Good luck.

 

[swavescatter]

Make sure action wrench is tight, no wiggle and whack with a small sledge, making sure there is already good pressure on the cheater bar/wrench handle. Heat it up and let it cool several times, spraying penetrating oil while hot.

The flex from my DIY 2x4 benchtop definitely hurt me.

 

[mtnwrunner]

Heat, wheeler action wrench and LARGE cheater bar, as in:

 

[2rsquared]

I've only done 3, but learned not to over tighten the external Wheeler action wrench.

Just snug enough that it will not slip and mar your action.

I used a 5 lb dead blow hammer from Harbor freight (the orange one). Soaking it in penetrating oil and a few cycles of heating it up and letting cool over a couple weeks helped I think. Right before, heat up the action while having a cold wet rag on the barrel.

I didn't try both the internal and external wrench at the same time, but that may be your next move.

All good tips above.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

I didn’t use a hammer on my first couple. I looked the barrel down tight and had the handle of the wrench straight up. I have a piece of 1” square tubing about 3 foot long. Swung it like Babe Ruth. I think the shock helps them.

 

[Macintosh]

Sorry, but the stupid question must be asked, are you turning it the correct direction?

Dont be sorry, its a good question. Yes, I am turning in the correct direction. I just quadruple checked with another tikka barrel I have just to make sure I wasnt having a moment.

 

[Andouille]

I think that a 3+ lb hammer is necessary to generate a sufficient sharp impulse to break the threads loose. A 40oz framing hammer may not be able to impart a large enough impulse without swinging it at a silly speed