Considering getting a Tikka T3X…

[digger]

I don’t need it, but I am thinking about getting a Tikka T3X as a new deer rifle. I’ll be hunting on my farm in SW Virginia. While longer shots are possible, most shots will be under 200 yards. I’m an experienced hunter and this won’t be my first rifle. I already have several bolt action hunting rifles (including .243, .257 Roberts, .25-06, 6.5 Grendel, .270, .30-06, and 8x57). If I like the Tikka enough, I might thin the herd a bit, but I’ll probably just get another gun safe.

I want the wooden stock, so I am currently only looking at the Hunter or Forester. I haven’t handled either of these models yet, because the LGS doesn’t have them in stock. I will almost certainly try to get hands on one or both models before I make a decision. Anything hidden I might need to know?

I understand that the action is the same length, but the bolt stop and magazine follower are different lengths. Is there anything else I need to know about the Tikka T3X that isn’t obvious?

I am trying to decide between 6.5x55, 7mm-08, 6.5 CM, and .308. Those are listed in order of current preference. I reload. I don’t care about the availability of factory ammo.

Whichever one I get, I intend to get it cut down to 20” and threaded for a suppressor. I already have a Scythe Ti for it (yes, I read the threads about the failures with the Scythe Ti).

The alternatives I am considering to the T3X are a CZ 550 FS, BRNO 22, and Sako L579 Forester in something like 6.5x55, 7x57, or .308. As those are not new rifles, they would require a bit more shopping.


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Just do it

 

[Mike D Texas]

So I actually ended up buying one of each. The sako was hands down more accurate and way less picky with ammo. Everything I tried in it shot sub moa. The tikkas was more picky and it took more time to find something that shot sub moa. Overall quality was much better with the sako as well. Stock was better, action felt better etc. The sakos are just higher quality all the way around. The tikkas are their budget line of rifles. Its like comparing the bergara B14 imports to the Bergara Premier line. Completely different guns.

This has not been my experience at all with the 3 Tikkas I own.

All of them shoot sub MOA with no load development.


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[Mike D Texas]

Agree - and I would love to be proved wrong

This one is pretty dam close. All stock T3x compact, 77TMK hand loads, first rounds with this load. 1” spot.

As stated on the target, this was a ladder test to find pressure and had a 200fps velocity spread from lowest to highest.

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[PredatorSlayer]

So I made it home and was curious and pulled a few newer and older Tikka barrels out of my stashes.

It does appear that at some point in the last maybe 2 years or so? They’ve started stamping the Tikka barrels with a “Tikka XXXXXXXXX”. Before there was no such stamp saying Tikka and serial number above the chambering stamp. There was also no barrel twist rates stamped on the barrels and now there are on the newer ones.

I can’t distinguish any differences between the unstamped and stamped Tikka barrels, and it was likely added in the manufacturing process as an extra quality step or more likely a compliance requirement from a certain country that they import to… But, there COULD have been a change in manufacturing as well, however, not likely.

Appreciate the info and I’ll find out more next week.

View attachment 811390


Old style Tikka barrel…

View attachment 811391

New style Tikka barrel…

View attachment 811393

Appreciate the update. I was just sharing what I was told, I have no skin in the game

 

[Mike D Texas]

I don’t need it, but I am thinking about getting a Tikka T3X as a new deer rifle. I’ll be hunting on my farm in SW Virginia. While longer shots are possible, most shots will be under 200 yards. I’m an experienced hunter and this won’t be my first rifle. I already have several bolt action hunting rifles (including .243, .257 Roberts, .25-06, 6.5 Grendel, .270, .30-06, and 8x57). If I like the Tikka enough, I might thin the herd a bit, but I’ll probably just get another gun safe.

I want the wooden stock, so I am currently only looking at the Hunter or Forester. I haven’t handled either of these models yet, because the LGS doesn’t have them in stock. I will almost certainly try to get hands on one or both models before I make a decision. Anything hidden I might need to know?

I understand that the action is the same length, but the bolt stop and magazine follower are different lengths. Is there anything else I need to know about the Tikka T3X that isn’t obvious?

I am trying to decide between 6.5x55, 7mm-08, 6.5 CM, and .308. Those are listed in order of current preference. I reload. I don’t care about the availability of factory ammo.

Whichever one I get, I intend to get it cut down to 20” and threaded for a suppressor. I already have a Scythe Ti for it (yes, I read the threads about the failures with the Scythe Ti).

The alternatives I am considering to the T3X are a CZ 550 FS, BRNO 22, and Sako L579 Forester in something like 6.5x55, 7x57, or .308. As those are not new rifles, they would require a bit more shopping.


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Everyone needs a good .308 in their safe.

I have a 20” Roughtech ember that is quickly becoming my favorite all purpose utility hunting rifle. Excellent at nothing but good at a lot of things.

It shoots both 155 & 175 TMKs equally well.


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[Q_Sertorius]

Having thought about it some more, I think I can dispense with the wood stock requirement. I have enough rifles with 19th-century technology. Something all-weather with 20th-century technology, or even 21st-century technology, would be more useful.

There are also some features on some of the other models that seem appealing to me.

For instance, CTR and UPR have the integrated 0 MOA rail. Does anyone have thoughts on the desirability and utility of that feature?

They also come with stock 20” barrel and threads. That is probably a quick $150-200 job from a gunsmith, but it’s not nothing.

Thoughts on the CTR or UPR?

Or just get the most basic T3X in the chambering I want, then cut and thread the barrel, add new stock, etc.?


“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[Turkeytider]

I have been very pleased with my T3X Super Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor. As a marksman, however, I don’t do it justice! The gun will easily shoot sub MOA into 3, 4 and 5” gongs at 500 yards if I dope the scope properly and don’t screw up the shot. When I was looking for a new range rifle, it was down to the UPR, SV , and Bergara PRO. It’s more expensive than the CTR, but with a better stock, excellent 2 stage trigger ( if you’re OK with 2 stage triggers) and an adjustable comb. Whether or not the price difference is worth it is, of course, a personal judgement.

 

[Marbles]

Having thought about it some more, I think I can dispense with the wood stock requirement. I have enough rifles with 19th-century technology. Something all-weather with 20th-century technology, or even 21st-century technology, would be more useful.

There are also some features on some of the other models that seem appealing to me.

For instance, CTR and UPR have the integrated 0 MOA rail. Does anyone have thoughts on the desirability and utility of that feature?

They also come with stock 20” barrel and threads. That is probably a quick $150-200 job from a gunsmith, but it’s not nothing.

Thoughts on the CTR or UPR?

Or just get the most basic T3X in the chambering I want, then cut and thread the barrel, add new stock, etc.?


“Keep on keepin’ on…”

The CTR uses a different bottom and mag.

I like pic rails, and a good rail runs $70-80. If you are fine using the dovetail, then Sportsmatch ($40~) or UM ($130) rings are great and not any more than quality pic rings. If the CTR is less than $280 in cost difference, then the quest is just do you want the CTR magazines or the standard. The ease of getting something that doesn't need a trip to a smith is nice.

Personally, I go with the cheapest in stainless, so the T3x Lite.

 

[Mike D Texas]

Having thought about it some more, I think I can dispense with the wood stock requirement. I have enough rifles with 19th-century technology. Something all-weather with 20th-century technology, or even 21st-century technology, would be more useful.

There are also some features on some of the other models that seem appealing to me.

For instance, CTR and UPR have the integrated 0 MOA rail. Does anyone have thoughts on the desirability and utility of that feature?

They also come with stock 20” barrel and threads. That is probably a quick $150-200 job from a gunsmith, but it’s not nothing.

Thoughts on the CTR or UPR?

Or just get the most basic T3X in the chambering I want, then cut and thread the barrel, add new stock, etc.?


“Keep on keepin’ on…”

You’ll be more restricted on cartridge length with the UPR/CTR since they use different mags.


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[Q_Sertorius]

You’ll be more restricted on cartridge length with the UPR/CTR since they use different mags.


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That’s very useful. Thank you.


“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Just buy this and suppress it and go shoot the thing.

Tikka T3x Hunter .308 Win 16.1" 1:10" M15x1 w/ 5/8"x24 Bbl Matte Hunter Stock/Blued 3rd Ranch Rifle JRTXAR316/16

Tikka T3x Hunter .308 Win 16.1" 1:10" M15x1 w/ 5/8"x24 Bbl Matte Hunter Stock/Blued 3rd Ranch Rifle JRTXAR316/16 For Sale

www.eurooptic.com

 

[DangerRanger]

chopped and threaded T3x lite for my can and put in a manners.

No load dev really, max charge of imr4350 and a random coal


Op, I think you’ll be very happy with a t3x

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Just buy this and suppress it and go shoot the thing.

Tikka T3x Hunter .308 Win 16.1" 1:10" M15x1 w/ 5/8"x24 Bbl Matte Hunter Stock/Blued 3rd Ranch Rifle JRTXAR316/16

Tikka T3x Hunter .308 Win 16.1" 1:10" M15x1 w/ 5/8"x24 Bbl Matte Hunter Stock/Blued 3rd Ranch Rifle JRTXAR316/16 For Sale

www.eurooptic.com

I didn’t even know this existed. Thanks.


“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[Tahoe1305]

chopped and threaded T3x lite for my can and put in a manners.

No load dev really, max charge of imr4350 and a random coalView attachment 811515


Op, I think you’ll be very happy with a t3x

Bro who’s rocking 19oz cans these days? Didn’t even know they got that heavy. 338 ultra?

Merry Christmas

 

[Ringbill27]

All the cartridges you are looking at are more then capable of shooting to 200yds. So I’d be looking at the 308 or the 6.5 creed due to ammo cost and availability. But since I reload and ammo availability is still pretty good anyway I’d chose the 7mm08. Just one of my favorite cartridges.