Chopping Down a SWFA Turret - How to?

Before you commit to cutting anything, you can just pull the turret off and put a rubber cap over the existing stem. Eliminates the brass interface at least.

Cutting the stem just allows the rubber cap to sit flush/ more tight to the scope body.

Could only find the below pic. I have setups done both ways and can take pics/measurements of both if you want.

Cutting is fairly straight forward. I pull the oring and cut at that height with a thin disk dremel. Then cut a notch in the top to allow turning with a coin. Just make sure to tape up from scope body to base of stem so cut off dust does not get into internal assembly.

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Before you commit to cutting anything, you can just pull the turret off and put a rubber cap over the existing stem. Eliminates the brass interface at least.

Cutting the stem just allows the rubber cap to sit flush/ more tight to the scope body.

Could only find the below pic. I have setups done both ways and can take pics/measurements of both if you want.

Cutting is fairly straight forward. I pull the oring and cut at that height with a thin disk dremel. Then cut a notch in the top to allow turning with a coin. Just make sure to tape up from scope body to base of stem so cut off dust does not get into internal assembly.

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I just pulled the turret off for now. Seems like that will probably give me the clearance I need. I’ll put a few more rounds through it to see if I smash any fingers.

It’s only been an issue with SWFA on this 457 with low rings. I could go to medium and get a cheap riser, but didn’t want to do that.
 
Does anyone who replaced their windage turret with a cap not want the turret anymore? Looking for a spare to try an idea for creating a shorter overall turret.
 
Does anyone who replaced their windage turret with a cap not want the turret anymore? Looking for a spare to try an idea for creating a shorter overall turret.
I did what the others have done (minus the dremel cutting) and generally hunt with the plastic chair cap over the windage turret. I don’t find it practical to dial for wind and prefer to use the reticle. If you are swapping the scope between rifles or otherwise need to rezero, it’s easy to put the turret back on.
 
This is what I did with a 6x. I wanted to get the windage capped and as short as possible without losing adjustment range. I turned the windage adjustment all the way in then removed turret cap. I took a fine toothed hacksaw and gently sawed off the first flange of the turret housing.
Then put the turret cap back on and turn it all the way out.
Then you can cut off the brass post completely flush.
Then I took a small diameter dremel cutting disc and machined a shallow coin type slot into the face of the brass. Easy to adjust using coin or screwdriver.
Then used 1” hard plastic leg caps. They’re a good snug fit and there’s no way it’s coming off unless you want it to. It’s just 3/4” now with the cap in place.
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Did the brass stem transfer any heat to the internals? or did you use a heat sink? Just curious because epoxy does melt.
 
This is what I did with a 6x. I wanted to get the windage capped and as short as possible without losing adjustment range. I turned the windage adjustment all the way in then removed turret cap. I took a fine toothed hacksaw and gently sawed off the first flange of the turret housing.
Then put the turret cap back on and turn it all the way out.
Then you can cut off the brass post completely flush.
Then I took a small diameter dremel cutting disc and machined a shallow coin type slot into the face of the brass. Easy to adjust using coin or screwdriver.
Then used 1” hard plastic leg caps. They’re a good snug fit and there’s no way it’s coming off unless you want it to. It’s just 3/4” now with the cap in place.
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And,,,,, just to make sure this scope is totally custom, unwarrantable and unsellable, I trimmed just over 1/2” off the overly long sunshade ha ha.
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I pulled the windage turret on mine and cut the brass stem flush with the scope housing. After cutting it flush, I cut a small groove in the end of the stem so that I could adjust windage with a coin or screwdriver. Then used a furniture leg end as a cover.

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Just like this with a couple wraps of electric tape that can double as a bore cover.

Chuck the elevation knob in a drill clamped in a vise and you can grind it down as well.
 
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