Choosing my first Tikka and looking for advice

[PaulDogs]

Background:
I currently have two rifles.

• 308 Win Weatherby Vanguard
• 223 Aero Precision AR - 8 twist 16” barrel

My scope is a Nightforce SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil

This is a 10 shot group from my AR with factory 73 ELDM w/ a mv of 2878 fps.


223 Hesitancy:
I’m a somewhat new western hunter and a beginner shooter. I’m convinced that 223 is adequate for my hunting needs. Something that makes me hesitant is that I hunt with outfitters about once a year. I foresee the possibility of an outfitter thinking it is laughable to use 223 on elk, deer, etc. and forbidding me to use it on a hunt. At that point, I’m stuck with using a loaner rifle or my 308.

I know this might sound stupid, and I could argue, “if I’m paying for the hunt, I should get to use whatever legal rifle I prefer.” But I also believe the outfitter should have final say on the way he runs his hunts.

I also live in CA, and I do solo backpack hunts here. My ammo choice is limited to monos or DRT. Here is a 10 shot group from my AR with DRT.

I can’t buy a suppressor and I don’t want to use a muzzle break. My only option for reducing recoil is stock geometry and increasing rifle weight. I also do not reload. As I see it, here are my two options.


The Options:
A) 223 Tikka Stainless
SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil
UM Low Rings
Vertical grip

B) 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka CTR 20”
SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil
RokStok
T3x bottom metal
Nightforce Low rings
Atlas Bipod

C) Neither
Buy ammo and use the 223 AR when you can and 308 when you can't

I’ve estimated option B would be around 10.5 lbs. This weight plus the RokStok geometry would help with spotting impacts better than my current 308, but I doubt as much as shooting a 223.


Question:
Should I get a 6.5 cm for hunting with outfitters and use my AR for practice/solo hunting until I get the 223 tikka? Or get the 223 tikka first? Let me know what you guys think.

 

[ARK_Ginger]

Is there a specific reason you're looing at the CTR over the other models?

 

[PaulDogs]

It has a heavier barrel but is still 20". I want to increase the potential of spotting shots if I go with the 6.5 cm.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Another thing to consider is that .223 isn't legal for all species in all states, outfitted hunt or not. If that doesn't hold true for the states you hunt then disregard.

 

[ztc92]

Background:
I currently have two rifles.

• 308 Win Weatherby Vanguard
• 223 Aero Precision AR - 8 twist 16” barrel

My scope is a Nightforce SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil

This is a 10 shot group from my AR with factory 73 ELDM w/ a mv of 2878 fps.
View attachment 677791

223 Hesitancy:
I’m a somewhat new western hunter and a beginner shooter. I’m convinced that 223 is adequate for my hunting needs. Something that makes me hesitant is that I hunt with outfitters about once a year. I foresee the possibility of an outfitter thinking it is laughable to use 223 on elk, deer, etc. and forbidding me to use it on a hunt. At that point, I’m stuck with using a loaner rifle or my 308.

I know this might sound stupid, and I could argue, “if I’m paying for the hunt, I should get to use whatever legal rifle I prefer.” But I also believe the outfitter should have final say on the way he runs his hunts.

I also live in CA, and I do solo backpack hunts here. My ammo choice is limited to monos or DRT. Here is a 10 shot group from my AR with DRT.
View attachment 677792
I can’t buy a suppressor and I don’t want to use a muzzle break. My only option for reducing recoil is stock geometry and increasing rifle weight. I also do not reload. As I see it, here are my two options.


The Options:
A) 223 Tikka Stainless
SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil
UM Low Rings
Vertical grip

B) 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka CTR 20”
SHV 4-14x50 F1 Mil
RokStok
T3x bottom metal
Nightforce Low rings
Atlas Bipod

C) Neither
Buy ammo and use the 223 AR when you can and 308 when you can't

I’ve estimated option B would be around 10.5 lbs. This weight plus the RokStok geometry would help with spotting impacts better than my current 308, but I doubt as much as shooting a 223.


Question:
Should I get a 6.5 cm for hunting with outfitters and use my AR for practice/solo hunting until I get the 223 tikka? Or get the 223 tikka first? Let me know what you guys think.

I started with a RSS (.223 Tikka in the factory stock with a SWFA 6x) and I absolutely love it, Then I got the itch for a larger rifle that was legal for elk in WY so picked up a CTR in 6.5CM with a 20” barrel that I placed into a KRG bravo. It’s the only stock/chassis I know of that can use the CTR mags right now. If the rokstok comes out with CTR inlet that will likely be even better. It shoots great in this platform and I can easily spot shots as an amateur shooter with a suppressor on it. That said it’s 12.5 pounds loaded and that got old carrying around the mountains this past fall for elk.

As a result, I picked up a T3X lite in 6.5CM during the recent rebate and plan to cut it to 18” to put in a rokstok for hunting this year.

If you go CTR the bravo is a great choice but if lightweight hunting is your goal then get a T3X lite or superlite and use the factory mags in the rokstok. I think a 6.5CM would be a great option to split the difference between your .223 and .308.

Edit: Re-read your initial post mentioning no suppressor or break. If that’s the case, I’d get a 20 or 24” CTR and put it in a Bravo for the extra weight to tame the recoil. Barrel length depending on your need for an extra 100 FPS vs smaller overall length.

 

[SamsonMan22]

If wanting to stick with factory offered options for me it would be 223 or the 243 if I needed to make caliber restrictions.

Also you could always go with a compact on either one which would come with a 20” barrel. The stock has a spacer to put it at the normal length of pull, or if you a swapping stocks the smaller stock doesn’t matter.

 

[keystone112]

If you are happy with your 308, I would go with option C.

Put an identical scope on it, buy ammo, and shoot them both.

 

[roosiebull]

Another option is a 6mm of some sort (tikka 243 if you want to stick with tikka) and have something that shoots a little quicker since you live in California and have to shoot non lead. That’s probably what I would do in your situation

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Factory 243 is probably not going to have the best 6mm bullets, so a 6.5 creed makes sense as a factory ammo hunter. Sako s20 is about the same cost as a ctr, and is probably a better rifle.

 

[Braaap]

It has a heavier barrel but is still 20". I want to increase the potential of spotting shots if I go with the 6.5 cm.

I can spot shots just fine with my regular t3x 6.5cm. You shouldn’t need the CTR in my opinion. I wouldn’t go above 6.5cm recoil if you want to spot shots without a muzzle brake though. My rifle weighs about 8.5 lbs total.

 

[PaulDogs]

I can spot shots just fine with my regular t3x 6.5cm. You shouldn’t need the CTR in my opinion. I wouldn’t go above 6.5cm recoil if you want to spot shots without a muzzle brake though. My rifle weighs about 8.5 lbs total.

That's good to hear, but I suspect you're a more experienced shooter than I am. My dad has a suppressed 6.5 prc and I can't spot impacts with it.

 

[Formidilosus]

I know this might sound stupid, and I could argue, “if I’m paying for the hunt, I should get to use whatever legal rifle I prefer.” But I also believe the outfitter should have final say on the way he runs his hunts.

I don’t agree with this at all. In the end only the shooter is responsible for what happens- the guide isn’t to blame if something goes wrong, only me. Therefore I am responsible for what I shoot.

Question:
Should I get a 6.5 cm for hunting with outfitters and use my AR for practice/solo hunting until I get the 223 tikka? Or get the 223 tikka first? Let me know what you guys think.

If you are going to shoot a bolt action, get a 223 Tikka first. Then I would probably look at the 243 Tikka with 1-8” twist for 95gr DRT bullets if you reload.

 

[PaulDogs]

I don’t agree with this at all. In the end only the shooter is responsible for what happens- the guide isn’t to blame if something goes wrong, only me. Therefore I am responsible for what I shoot.

I’m glad that’s the way you see it. I’ll shoot what I shoot best (223). Me being new to hunting, some of the social mores that come with it can be hard to navigate.

 

[Formidilosus]

I’m glad that’s the way you see it. I’ll shoot what I shoot best (223). Me being new to hunting, some of the social mores that come with it can be hard to navigate.

Just practice, train and be prepared that way when you short things due without fuss.

 

[Mulyhuntr]

What ammo is getting you almost 2900fps with a 16" barrel with 73s? That's screaming.

Go 8 twist 243 if you primarily hunt CA. I'm in CA too and keep some "dummy" (copper) rounds in the mag for short range quick shots but will slip in a 108 if a long shot is necessary.

 

[SouthPaw]

DRT loads factory ammunition for both the .223 (79g) and the .243, and sells the bullets separate if you handload.

 

[PaulDogs]

What ammo is getting you almost 2900fps with a 16" barrel with 73s? That's screaming.

Factory 73 ELDM. But I haven’t chrono-ed it. I just trued it using my 400 yard correction last time at the range. There’s definitely a chance I did something wrong.

 

[Mulyhuntr]

Factory 73 ELDM. But I haven’t chrono-ed it. I just trued it using my 400 yard correction last time at the range. There’s definitely a chance I did something wrong.

I'd say so. They're rated 2790 from a 24" barrel.

 

[PaulDogs]

I'd say so. They're rated 2790 from a 24" barrel.

i agree it seems odd, but I sent a lot of rounds at 410 at they consistently needed 1.9 mils of correction. Do you know what else could cause them to hit high?

 

[PaulDogs]

DRT loads factory ammunition for both the .223 (79g) and the .243, and sells the bullets separate if you handload.

I’m definitely planning on using the 79 this year. I posted a 10 round group out of my AR above.