chainsaw for lots of small tree removal...???

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Just called the Stihl dealer and described what I'm looking to do... he too said MS170 with virtually zero hesitation.
 

Ranger 692

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Make sure to do the .050 chain/12”bar swap....a good dealer will swap the bar straight across and you pay the difference for the heavier chain, just a few bucks for a big increase in durability and cutting speed.
 
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Make sure to do the .050 chain/12”bar swap....a good dealer will swap the bar straight across and you pay the difference for the heavier chain, just a few bucks for a big increase in durability and cutting speed.

Not something I would have thought of. Thanks.

Pardon my ignorance and/or stupidity, but how does a shorter bar increase chain speed? Just the reduction in friction?
 

Ranger 692

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Shorter bar/chain = less power needed to turn = faster rev and less bogging. Part of the reason to go shorter here is to make up for the additional chain weight and cutting bite added with the beefier chain.
 
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Shorter bar/chain = less power needed to turn = faster rev and less bogging. Part of the reason to go shorter here is to make up for the additional chain weight and cutting bite added with the beefier chain.

I forgot all about the reduced chain weight.

I just spoke with the dealer. I'm going with the MS180. Go from 1.7hp to 2.0hp, and weight only goes from 8.6# to 9.0#. Going to drop bar length from 16" to only 14". I said let's go with 12", but said with the MS180 that he wouldn't go shorter than 14". Also going with the heavier chain.

Should be a pretty handy little set up. Right?
 
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Husky 555 still 13# dry weight. Not exactly light. 4.3 hp, though. Damn! You could push a small boat with that thing. I think the best move is just keep the Rancher 455 as my "big saw" and then pick up a quality little guy for the task at hand (cutting these shooting lanes) and for smaller jobs around the house.

You were looking at the wrong saw. 555 is a good saw, but more of a firewood tool. The 545 and 550XP twins are <11 lbs and much more compact. The 550XP is still 4hp and would completely obsolete your 455, but it's no small investment.

On bar length, I like some reach for clearing close to the ground myself. Having a shorter bar does in fact increase chain speed, but there are drawbacks. I gone as short as 12" and didn't like that at all.

I haven't used a MS180, but have recently used an MS211, which is one size up (35cc). It ran well and got the job done, but was hardly a powerhouse. Have also used a MS193 (30cc) fairly extensively... someone eventually stole that one off my truck, and I don't really miss it. <2hp just isn't that useful to me as I thought it was going to be.

I agree with the other guys about changing the chain size to a 3/8" 0.50 gauge low pro. The 0.43" stuff is pretty weak.
 
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You were looking at the wrong saw. 555 is a good saw, but more of a firewood tool. The 545 and 550XP twins are <11 lbs and much more compact. The 550XP is still 4hp and would completely obsolete your 455, but it's no small investment.

On bar length, I like some reach for clearing close to the ground myself. Having a shorter bar does in fact increase chain speed, but there are drawbacks. I gone as short as 12" and didn't like that at all.

I haven't used a MS180, but have recently used an MS211, which is one size up (35cc). It ran well and got the job done, but was hardly a powerhouse. Have also used a MS193 (30cc) fairly extensively... someone eventually stole that one off my truck, and I don't really miss it. <2hp just isn't that useful to me as I thought it was going to be.

I agree with the other guys about changing the chain size to a 3/8" 0.50 gauge low pro. The 0.43" stuff is pretty weak.

10-4. Guess I was. This job will be cutting lots of trees, but none of them very big. Maybe I should have gone the pro route, but I think I can put $600+ to better use elsewhere. Hopefully this little guy doesn't wear me out too badly. It'll be under 10 pounds for sure... which should be nice. Access to the base of these trees is also very easy, so reach isn't too important.
 

Kiel

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Battery powered Makita makes a good one now days and is very quiet good for cutting trail too
 
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Well, I got down there and they did not have it 180 in stock. Went with the 170. They talked me out of the 12 inch bar and said drop it down to just 14 with the 50 gauge. I fought them pretty hard on it. Guy said he's had several people come back and return the 12 for a 14. At that point I caved. I hope it's not a dog with the 50 gauge and the 14 in.

Maybe I put this job off I have them order me the 180. 1.7, 220 horsepower for twenty bucks and a quarter pound seems worth it
 
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OP
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It’ll be fine, run it hard and enjoy! The beefier chain is the most important thing.

I have permission from the boss to go do a little cutting tomorrow. Good news is the highs are only mid-90s and 100% humidity. I was thinking about waiting till got a little warmer but this might be as good as it gets.
 

Jimbob

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This is what I had my eye on, but price won out. Only 7.3 lbs.
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Scotto

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I have the MS 181C, runs great at home but will not run at 9000'. The H and L screws are not accessible, the LA is. Could not get it to start at high elevation.
 

Marbles

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Stihl MS-261 C-M. It is the smallest Stihl pro line saw (that is not an arborist saw). The pro saws are much easier to maintain than the home owner, and farm and ranch Stihl's. Having used a 261 next to a 290 for several days, the 290 is a boat anchor.

Arborist (top handle) saws are intended for tree work, they don't provide the same level of safety for kick back as a regular saw. I own a 201-T (that I use for tree work) but I would not recommend it for ground work.

The 260 will pull a 20 inch 3/8 (I run the larger chain on mine, it comes with a 0.325) chain through almost anything (bury it in 20 inches of oak and it will bog a little if you work it hard, bury it in 20 inches of hickory and you will wish for more power). A 290 (heavier saw, that is the 261 equivalent from the farm and ranch line) has a hard time pulling an 18 inch chain buried in pine.

While the 261 is only designed for a 20 inch bar, if all you are doing is saplings, you could run a 32 inch bar with skip chain, which would let you work more upright.

If getting a small saw, go with Husqvarna. Their non-pro level saws are better than Stihl's non-pro level saws. I have enjoyed the small Husqvarna's I have used. Every non-pro Stihl I have used has left me wanting to throw it in a lake. Keep in mind, I like Stihl. I own two Stihl saws (MS 261 C-M and 201-T) and I do not own a Husqvarna. My next saw will be a Stihl MS 661.

The 261 is 10.8 pounds and generates 4.0 break horse power. The 171 is 9.5 pounds and generates 1.7 break horse power. So, the 261 has 235 % of the power at 113 % of the weight of the 171. Pretty easy choice. Parts will also be cheaper for the 261.

As for the Mtronic carb, I was hesitant to trust it and wanted to be able to say it was garbage and old school was better. However, I love it. You can feel it adjusting the fuel settings for what you are cutting. It will noticeably power up when you go from limbing to bucking, tuning the saw for the task at hand.
 

Baddog

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I have the MS 181C, runs great at home but will not run at 9000'. The H and L screws are not accessible, the LA is. Could not get it to start at high elevation.
I do a lot of cutting with one at high elevations. You need to open up the air box, drill it full of holes and get it more air. But don’t use it at low elevation or she’ll seize
 
OP
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Stihl MS-261 C-M. It is the smallest Stihl pro line saw (that is not an arborist saw). The pro saws are much easier to maintain than the home owner, and farm and ranch Stihl's. Having used a 261 next to a 290 for several days, the 290 is a boat anchor.

Arborist (top handle) saws are intended for tree work, they don't provide the same level of safety for kick back as a regular saw. I own a 201-T (that I use for tree work) but I would not recommend it for ground work.

The 260 will pull a 20 inch 3/8 (I run the larger chain on mine, it comes with a 0.325) chain through almost anything (bury it in 20 inches of oak and it will bog a little if you work it hard, bury it in 20 inches of hickory and you will wish for more power). A 290 (heavier saw, that is the 261 equivalent from the farm and ranch line) has a hard time pulling an 18 inch chain buried in pine.

While the 261 is only designed for a 20 inch bar, if all you are doing is saplings, you could run a 32 inch bar with skip chain, which would let you work more upright.

If getting a small saw, go with Husqvarna. Their non-pro level saws are better than Stihl's non-pro level saws. I have enjoyed the small Husqvarna's I have used. Every non-pro Stihl I have used has left me wanting to throw it in a lake. Keep in mind, I like Stihl. I own two Stihl saws (MS 261 C-M and 201-T) and I do not own a Husqvarna. My next saw will be a Stihl MS 661.

The 261 is 10.8 pounds and generates 4.0 break horse power. The 171 is 9.5 pounds and generates 1.7 break horse power. So, the 261 has 235 % of the power at 113 % of the weight of the 171. Pretty easy choice. Parts will also be cheaper for the 261.

As for the Mtronic carb, I was hesitant to trust it and wanted to be able to say it was garbage and old school was better. However, I love it. You can feel it adjusting the fuel settings for what you are cutting. It will noticeably power up when you go from limbing to bucking, tuning the saw for the task at hand.

Chainsaw magician here!

Phone chatter I read online seem to point towards Still for entry level.

261, huh?

I guess it's just money. Can't take it with you! 10.8# is climbing back up there. I get the power increase, but goal was light weight for ton of small cutting. However, the parts of a tissue and easy maintenance has an appeal... as does having a real soft if I need to cut down something big and green.

Maybe I'll make a trip back out there today
 
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I need to get around to this on my second 170 I got at a yard sale. Upgraded carb, open up the muffler and do the bar swap, tuned for elevation. One for the house and one for the trail.




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My friend had a stihl weedeater with basically a skill saw blade on it, instead of string.

It made for easy clearing of baby cedars in the pastures.


View attachment 198084

My back is killing me just thinking about using a chain saw. A circular saw on a weed eater is the right tool for the job. Here's a look at it in action. Notice he barely has to work the throttle to get enough momentum in the blade to cut all the way through. I've used this setup to clear out about a full acre of young dense trees, some 5-6" in diameter. All you have to do to cut through anything that big is just rev it up high and swing it in and it's like a hot knife through butter.
 
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My back is killing me just thinking about using a chain saw. A circular saw on a weed eater is the right tool for the job. Here's a look at it in action. Notice he barely has to work the throttle to get enough momentum in the blade to cut all the way through. I've used this setup to clear out about a full acre of young dense trees, some 5-6" in diameter. All you have to do to cut through anything that big is just rev it up high and swing it in and it's like a hot knife through butter.

About 2/3 through video he spent quite a bit of time on that conifer. That's about the size tree but I got to pull out.... 400 or so of them.
 
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