Cerekoted vs Stainless Tikka

[Sadler]

Look into the nitride option. I just got one done from unknown and it’s super smooth. Costs $150 so about the same as cerekote

 

[Marbles]

Volvquartsen DLC’s their 10/22 and 22/45 bolts and I have never seen one of them wear off after 10s of thousands of rounds I guess it could eventually wear off but I think it would take an eternity.

My only experience with it has been the bezel on my Fenix7 watch and a bolt handle, in both cases it has work of the corners.

 

[PistolPete]

Was that for a whole rifle? Inside and out? Did you do anything about the screws to resist corrosion? Those things always rust on me.

Look into the nitride option. I just got one done from unknown and it’s super smooth. Costs $150 so about the same as cerekote

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Stainless is my vote. Where I hunt in western MT, the season usually starts with rain and then turns to snow. And I truck around in it all day in pursuit of my quarry. Stainless always gets the job done for me.

 

[hoytboy]

Can’t go wrong with stainless. I have a 24 year old Tikka stainless that has seen lots of use, and has stood up extremely well.

 

[JohnJohnson]

I also cerakoted a bolt and it and it was not a smart idea. Looks sweet but i do not recommend

I tried to Cerakote a whole barreled action but luckily my gunsmith told me no and Cerakoted the barrel then nitrided the action.

 

[Sadler]

Was that for a whole rifle? Inside and out? Did you do anything about the screws to resist corrosion? Those things always rust on me.

Just the action and yes inside and out. The screws are just the standard ones that come with it. I’m sure you could buy some stainless ones from mountain tactical and unknown would nitride those as well.

 

[wind gypsy]

In regards to nitriding - I've heard people say that knowing the existing hardness or other attributes of an action steel is important to make sure nitride treatment is completed appropriately such that it doesn't compromise the integrity of the metal.

Anyone know anything about that and if the properties of the tikka receiver/bolt steel are known for nitriding?

 

[roosiebull]

You don’t want cerakote on the parts where corrosion matters most (bore, little parts inside action), so stainless.

This is exactly what I thought when I read the thread, you are absolutely correct

If I were to cerakote a rifle, it would still need to be stainless. I can’t have blued guns

 

[Castmaster]

This is exactly what I thought when I read the thread, you are absolutely correct

If I were to cerakote a rifle, it would still need to be stainless. I can’t have blued guns

I said the same after the last rifle I bought, a Bergara bmr carbon 22lr. I took it out for one squirrel hunt on a sunny day set it in the corner picked it up 3 days later to use it again and already had minor pitting on the barrel bands and surface rust covering the entire action.