Cerekote and Pic Rail

[Hillbilly Hunter]

I am considering Cerekoting a 7RM rifle. Will be installing a Murphy Precision stainless picatinny rail, Nightforce 6 screw rings, and NXS 3.5-15. I was wondering if anyone had ever had a problem, or heard of a problem of Cerekote being an issue for scope mounting. Specifically, is there any higher risk of rail movement on a Cerekoted action, or ring movement on a Cerekoted rail? I have never heard of any such problem.....so assume it's not an issue....but this is a rifle I want to be absolutely movement free. On the other hand, I wonder if Cerekote is slightly more "slick" than bare stainless steel receiver? And for the rings, is the Cerekote less durable or maybe microscopically less stable than bare metal ring mounting surface, on a bare metal rail? Thanks in advance for any insight!

 

[Wapiti1]

For the rail to action connection, Cerakote, properly applied, doesn't really change anything. You should be bedding the rail if you want the best connection regardless of whether the action and/or rail is coated or not.

Best scenario is to bed and mount the rail prior to coating and coat it as a unit. Use JB weld or another temp resistant bedding compound.

It makes zero difference anywhere else in the system. I would only suggest it not be applied to the inner surface of the rings since those are machined surfaces that you want to keep concentric. Even if it's only a tiny difference. Otherwise, just seat the ring recoil shoulders forward on the rail abutments and torque it down. It'll never move.

Jeremy

 

[WeiserBucks]

For the rail to action connection, Cerakote, properly applied, doesn't really change anything. You should be bedding the rail if you want the best connection regardless of whether the action and/or rail is coated or not.

Best scenario is to bed and mount the rail prior to coating and coat it as a unit. Use JB weld or another temp resistant bedding compound.

It makes zero difference anywhere else in the system. I would only suggest it not be applied to the inner surface of the rings since those are machined surfaces that you want to keep concentric. Even if it's only a tiny difference. Otherwise, just seat the ring recoil shoulders forward on the rail abutments and torque it down. It'll never move.

Jeremy

All of the above is correct, and cerakote sucks

 

[Wrench]

I've done plenty both ways and it really doesn't matter. You shift your point of aim .001" away from the fixed side of the ring....bite seems to not matter. If you bed the rail and clean it up wet with wd40 before coating it'll look seamless but you are maried to it.