Buying my first Tikka, what to upgrade first?

[Montana Slim]

Opinions are usually worth what you pay for them - but there is a lot of experience and good advice given so far. So, I'll add what what makes sense to me...

1 - Rings. Won't shoot it without a scope. I prefer sportsmatch, not the only option, but using the integrated rail on the Tikka receiver makes sense. Strong and inexpensive. Good reputation for a reason.

2 - Scope decision. You won't shoot it without a scope... Everyone has a preference. I found like the trijicon 3-9... 1 inch tube and SFP. It doesn't have all the features some guys want, but it's lightish (17oz), relatively inexpensive ($500), and (so far) seems pretty durable/reliable. Again, Everyone has their favorites, but if you do some reading on here, there are reasons the three most mentioned brands come up.

2 - Ammo. Pick a bullet you want to hunt with, and buy or load some.

3 - SHOOT the thing. If your gun 'likes' the combo you chose (pretty likely with a Tikka) - go buy or load a bunch more. If not, try another combo. If you get crummy groups after 3 different combos - it may not be the rifle... (assuming you checked it out/went through it and set up the optic correctly).

4 - shoot some more.

5 - shoot again.

6 - put some more ammo through it...

7 - repeat steps 4-6.

Maaaaaybe tackle a couple of other things, but at least get s couple hundred rounds down range before that.

In this order...

Cheek riser (if needed). Maybe - Shoot a lot first. A lot of guys do, or would be better off, with the factory stock comb height increased.

Vertical grip.
Maybe - Shoot a lot first. I do like mine.

Limbsaver.
Maybe - Shoot a lot first. I do like mine (7mm, 30-06)

Trigger Spring. Maybe - Shoot a lot first. I don't care for it in a hunting gun.

Nothing at all wrong with tricking out a tikka, and they are a great platform to 'improve' and spend a bunch of money on, but get familiar with it first and decide if it's for you. It really isn't necessary though.

I've decided I like other things better, but you can't really argue with the practicality of the tikkas. Ultimately, decide what you like and go use it! The key is deciding what you like based on EXPERIENCE and not what some dude on the internet says............ haha

Good luck!

 

[General RE LEE]

I’m amazed how many people buy FFP scopes based off recommendations here but they only hunt wooded areas and the only range they can shoot goes to 100 yards.

 

[atmat]

For a hunting gun, a SFP is an advantage. Why worry about a reticle that changes size as magnification changes?

This isn’t an accurate statement. FFP vs SFP is preference and there are advantages and disadvantages of both.

 

[Bluumoon]

I understand what you are getting at, but I think differently on that issue. While it is nice to be aware of that experience, there are simply too many variables that can impact a one-off test for it to be a reliable indicator of product quality.

That’s not to say one shouldn’t do their homework before making the purchase. They should. In this case, I read several product reviews and spoke to multiple people who own, and are very happy with, Tract Toric scopes. The review above is the first and only negative comments I’ve encountered. I truly appreciate having the additional information. That said, in 50 years of carrying a rifle, I don’t think I’ve ever dropped one (admittedly I’ve not hunted Skre fields in the mountains). The company offers a straightforward lifetime warranty.

For what it is worth, there are also concerns expressed above regarding Leupold. I’ve got a VX3 that I purchased in approximately 1976 that has served me well for over 45 years.

Sample of two Leupolds.... VX-2 showed a massive shift (3.5" low at 100) after a few days of hunting and no drops. VX-3 on a friends rifle last year 1.5" right shift after sliding off a chair/hunting a few days. YMMV

 

[Roguemountainhunter]

What I like may not be your cup of coffee. But, all my Tikkas typically get these upgrades:
1. Limbsaver Recoil Pad
2. Tikka vertical grip
3. Thread barrel
4. Muzzlebrake
5. Cerakote
6. Stock upgrade or paint.

Lots of opportunity on upgrading a Tikka, it's all about what fits you and your liking! Here is my daughters T3X Lite.

 

[nobody]

For a hunting gun, a SFP is an advantage. Why worry about a reticle that changes size as magnification changes?

Not an advantage if you know how a FFP reticle operates and purchase the right one. Wind holds work on a FFP reticle independent of the power you’re on, whereas a SFP reticle you have to be on a specific power (usually max) to take advantage of the subtensions. This forces you to shoot on 18 power for a 400 yard shot if you plan to use your reticle subtensions in a SFP reticle.

Additionally, most SFP reticles are “BDC” types that have arbitrarily spaced hold points for elevation. Whether it’s dots or hash marks, usually they are essentially randomly spaced points in space that, again, require you to be on max power to take advantage of.

A properly designed FFP reticle always is more useful than a SFP reticle. Keyword here being properly designed. These ginormous Christmas trees aren’t what hunters need, but every YouTube video makes you think it’s what you need. When done right, a-la SWFA, you can easily bracket and aim on low power, and turn the reticle up and use the hold points and center dot on high power. You can properly take advantage of windage marks on any power in a FFP reticle, and they won’t just be arbitrary. You can make a wind call using your equipment and reference your ballistic calculator and know “ok, my wind drift is X Mils/MOA, I will hold X Mils/MOA per my reticle.” Whereas a SFP reticle you’re either using the randomly placed windage marks or forced to shoot on max power, which being a whole slough of other issues with target acquisition and maintenance, plus spotting impacts and adjusting for a follow up shot if necessary.

SFP is not better for hunting, not when compared to a properly designed FFP reticle.

 

[nobody]

For a lightweight mountain gun, people sure are recommending him some heavy scopes.

that’s because we are concentrating on recommendations for mechanically sound and reliable optics. It’s a mistake to place your precedence on weight savings if the optic doesn’t survive Mountain conditions while hunting. If a 22 OZ optic will survive a mountain hunt unscathed, but the 14 OZ option needs to be handled with white gloves in order to survive, the extra 8 OZ of scope number 1 is worth the peace of mind to those of us here on Rokslide. It’s wrong to to give up durability and reliability in order to save a few ounces.

 

[Buzby]

The vertical grip $20, limbsaver $40, and cheek riser $40, are great upgrades to the factory stock. Instead of dumping that money into what will still be an OK stock, I’d skip all of them and just get a KRG bravo. I upgrade the factory stock and eventually got the KRG. I should have just started there, it was a significant upgrade for me.

 

[General RE LEE]

Not an advantage if you know how a FFP reticle operates and purchase the right one. Wind holds work on a FFP reticle independent of the power you’re on, whereas a SFP reticle you have to be on a specific power (usually max) to take advantage of the subtensions. This forces you to shoot on 18 power for a 400 yard shot if you plan to use your reticle subtensions in a SFP reticle.

Additionally, most SFP reticles are “BDC” types that have arbitrarily spaced hold points for elevation. Whether it’s dots or hash marks, usually they are essentially randomly spaced points in space that, again, require you to be on max power to take advantage of.

A properly designed FFP reticle always is more useful than a SFP reticle. Keyword here being properly designed. These ginormous Christmas trees aren’t what hunters need, but every YouTube video makes you think it’s what you need. When done right, a-la SWFA, you can easily bracket and aim on low power, and turn the reticle up and use the hold points and center dot on high power. You can properly take advantage of windage marks on any power in a FFP reticle, and they won’t just be arbitrary. You can make a wind call using your equipment and reference your ballistic calculator and know “ok, my wind drift is X Mils/MOA, I will hold X Mils/MOA per my reticle.” Whereas a SFP reticle you’re either using the randomly placed windage marks or forced to shoot on max power, which being a whole slough of other issues with target acquisition and maintenance, plus spotting impacts and adjusting for a follow up shot if necessary.

SFP is not better for hunting, not when compared to a properly designed FFP reticle.

No way a FFP scope is a better option for someone that will never shoot more than 200 yards and hunts the woods.

 

[atmat]

No way a FFP scope is a better option for someone that will never shoot more than 200 yards and hunts the woods.

Depends what you’re shooting and what you’re shooting at.

I do get the point you’re trying to make — I really do. And for large game with normal centerfire cartridges inside of 200, I’d be fine buying a SFP scope. But blanket saying “SFP is better,” as a guy did somewhere above, isn’t a fair statement.

 

[nobody]

No way a FFP scope is a better option for someone that will never shoot more than 200 yards and hunts the woods.

True, in a hunt like a midwest deer drive it’s not necessary. But any time you’re shooting at a distance where wind starts to play a role in shot placement a FFP scope is a huge advantage. Again, the caveat is the FFP reticle needs to be properly designed, and the vast majority of FFP reticles today aren’t. But in one that’s designed right, it’s definitely an advantage for the western hunter who is hunting stereotypical vast western expanses.

 

[NateTP38]

No way a FFP scope is a better option for someone that will never shoot more than 200 yards and hunts the woods.

I hunt in the manner you describe. I switched to FFP last year and absolutely prefer it over SFP.

 

[FLS]

Not an advantage if you know how a FFP reticle operates and purchase the right one. Wind holds work on a FFP reticle independent of the power you’re on, whereas a SFP reticle you have to be on a specific power (usually max) to take advantage of the subtensions. This forces you to shoot on 18 power for a 400 yard shot if you plan to use your reticle subtensions in a SFP reticle.

Additionally, most SFP reticles are “BDC” types that have arbitrarily spaced hold points for elevation. Whether it’s dots or hash marks, usually they are essentially randomly spaced points in space that, again, require you to be on max power to take advantage of.

A properly designed FFP reticle always is more useful than a SFP reticle. Keyword here being properly designed. These ginormous Christmas trees aren’t what hunters need, but every YouTube video makes you think it’s what you need. When done right, a-la SWFA, you can easily bracket and aim on low power, and turn the reticle up and use the hold points and center dot on high power. You can properly take advantage of windage marks on any power in a FFP reticle, and they won’t just be arbitrary. You can make a wind call using your equipment and reference your ballistic calculator and know “ok, my wind drift is X Mils/MOA, I will hold X Mils/MOA per my reticle.” Whereas a SFP reticle you’re either using the randomly placed windage marks or forced to shoot on max power, which being a whole slough of other issues with target acquisition and maintenance, plus spotting impacts and adjusting for a follow up shot if necessary.

SFP is not better for hunting, not when compared to a properly designed FFP reticle.

So the same exact reticle in my SFP is not as accurate as the one in my FFP???
SHVs and NXS’s are useless “out west” ???

 

[Unckebob]

Not an advantage if you know how a FFP reticle operates and purchase the right one. Wind holds work on a FFP reticle independent of the power you’re on, whereas a SFP reticle you have to be on a specific power (usually max) to take advantage of the subtensions. This forces you to shoot on 18 power for a 400 yard shot if you plan to use your reticle subtensions in a SFP reticle.

Additionally, most SFP reticles are “BDC” types that have arbitrarily spaced hold points for elevation. Whether it’s dots or hash marks, usually they are essentially randomly spaced points in space that, again, require you to be on max power to take advantage of.

A properly designed FFP reticle always is more useful than a SFP reticle. Keyword here being properly designed. These ginormous Christmas trees aren’t what hunters need, but every YouTube video makes you think it’s what you need. When done right, a-la SWFA, you can easily bracket and aim on low power, and turn the reticle up and use the hold points and center dot on high power. You can properly take advantage of windage marks on any power in a FFP reticle, and they won’t just be arbitrary. You can make a wind call using your equipment and reference your ballistic calculator and know “ok, my wind drift is X Mils/MOA, I will hold X Mils/MOA per my reticle.” Whereas a SFP reticle you’re either using the randomly placed windage marks or forced to shoot on max power, which being a whole slough of other issues with target acquisition and maintenance, plus spotting impacts and adjusting for a follow up shot if necessary.

SFP is not better for hunting, not when compared to a properly designed FFP reticle.

If you cannot and easily see the hash marks at 4X against a busy background like sticks, grassy, woods, they are a step backwards. If they make them thick enough to see at 4X, they will be giant at 15x.

Honestly, I love my FFP scopes, but

I cannot justify selling this scope to my wife, but I would have something like this on my lightweight rifle if I had the choice.

NXS - 2.5-10x42mm - Nightforce Optics

OUR 2.5-10 X 42 NXS™ COMPACT IS THE BIGGEST, BADDEST LITTLE SCOPE ON THE MARKET.

www.nightforceoptics.com

 

[nobody]

So the same exact reticle in my SFP is not as accurate as the one in my FFP???
SHVs and NXS’s are useless “out west” ???

The caveat is a properly designed FFP reticle. Most modern FFP reticles aren’t great for hunting because of the fine lines and the overly busy Christmas trees. They have their place, but they’re not optimal for hunting. SWFA’s quad reticles are close, and usable on all powers. Not perfect, but closer than most on the market. Nightforce has a couple of simple reticles with windage and elevation holds as well. But they’re most useful in a FFP scope, because they’re accurate on all powers.

And I never said “useless”, I said a properly designed FFP reticle is “more useful” than a SFP reticle. I acknowledge that many animals are taken every year with SFP optics, but that doesn’t make them the best option. When talking about holding wind, if using a 5-20 SHV SFP and the reticle subtensions are only accurate (meaning corresponding perfectly with MIL/MOA values) at full magnification, but I don’t wanna shoot on 20x 100% of the time, it requires mental gymnastics and math in the moment to think “ok my wind hold is X MOA/MILs, which means it’s this hash mark. But only on 20x, and I’m on 12x, which means I need to divide and Do some math and then use this hash mark.” It’s too much math under pressure, and so much easier if that wind value corresponds to hash mark #2 whether it’s on 5 or 20 or 9.5 power (FFP). That’s why I say a FFP reticle is more useful. Not that you can’t use a SFP reticle, but a properly tuned FFP reticle with good visibility is much easier to use and doesn’t require extra thinking and math in the moment.

Dials are a magical invention.

Agreed. Dial elevation, and hold wind. Doesn’t make using FFP any less valid, and the primary advantage in a hunting setting is for wind holds. Hash mark #2 signifies .4 mils of windage at any power on the scope, not just on 20x (SFP).

 

[brockel]

The vertical grip $20, limbsaver $40, and cheek riser $40, are great upgrades to the factory stock. Instead of dumping that money into what will still be an OK stock, I’d skip all of them and just get a KRG bravo. I upgrade the factory stock and eventually got the KRG. I should have just started there, it was a significant upgrade for me.

How much more does the KRG weigh compared to the factory tikka stock

 

[NSI]

How much more does the KRG weigh compared to the factory tikka stock

It's 3 pounds. Tikka factory is under 2 pounds. It's a pound and 3 oz heavier. Very significant.

-J

 

[Antares]

It's 3 pounds. Tikka factory is under 2 pounds. It's a pound and 3 oz heavier. Very significant.

-J

The KRG Bravo weight would be much more comparable to the factory stock if they offered a magnesium backbone to replace the standard aluminum one. I hope they do. It be fun to swap out the backbones and then mill/drill the plastic to see how light you could make a Bravo.

 

[nobody]

If you cannot and easily see the hash marks at 4X against a busy background like sticks, grassy, woods, they are a step backwards. If they make them thick enough to see at 4X, they will be giant at 15x.

Honestly, I love my FFP scopes, but

I cannot justify selling this scope to my wife, but I would have something like this on my lightweight rifle if I had the choice.

NXS - 2.5-10x42mm - Nightforce Optics

OUR 2.5-10 X 42 NXS™ COMPACT IS THE BIGGEST, BADDEST LITTLE SCOPE ON THE MARKET.

www.nightforceoptics.com

Just saw you changed your post, but I really like what you wrote here. It’s truly a balancing act to design the “right” FFP reticle, and most companies do get it very wrong. A 4-12 or 4-16 SWFA quad reticle would be about as good as you could hope for in a FFP hunting scope. Bracket on low power, use that floating dot on high power, and hashmarks visible and useful from about 6x to the top.

 

[FLS]

I own multiples of both and much prefer a SFP scope for hunting even out west because of the difficult to see FFP reticles. Ive had a few of the SWFAs ( they were a popular on prize tables fir a while) and have always been underwhelmed. I use 2-10, 3-15 power scopes zero at 200, and dial when i need to at max power. NEVER been an issue. If i need to shoot at something less that max at power, its simple multiplication. Ive shot enough under stress to know i can do math in my head if needed. Ive killed alot, a whole lot, of game this way as far out as needed.