Build me a new Tikka

[honestcomrade]

My 20 year old blued T3 action cycles much better than the two stainless steel T3x actions that I have. The T3 trigger is also much better than the triggers on the T3X actions. I bought three tikkas: a T3 i bought in 2005 and two T3x bought within the last three years. The only Tikka parts that I ended up using in the three rifles: the actions and triggers.

I am not a fan of carbon barrels.

I have two McGowen SS barrels. I have a Preferred barrel that I am going to use eventually but the fit and finish isn’t as good as the McGowen IMO. John Disney is McGowen’s smith. Order your barrel, send in three dummy rounds you are going to shoot. Send your barreled action to McGowen then John will remove your old barrel, spin on the new one. Unless you plan on replacing barrels on six or more rifles, just doesn’t pay to buy or rent the tools to do it yourself. John will lap the face of the action, square it and “tweak” the headspace.

The .270 WSM came out before the heavy for caliber, high BC bullets came on the scene so the barrel twist is too slow to shoot the heavies. If you want to keep shooting .277 cal bullets better off just re-barreling with a 6.8 Western which is a WSM case that is optimized to shoot up to a 175 gr high BC bullet. I would go with a 1:7.5” twist for the 6.8 Western. McGowen makes those barrels. I put a 284 Winchester barrel (roll your own ammo) on the old T3 action. It is the most accurate rifle I have ever owned and is a pleasure to shoot. Has a bit more “zing” than the 7mm-08 and runs with the 280AI but recoil is very nice. Gettting around 2925-2950 with the 162 gr ELDs. I went with Trijicon scopes and Stocky’s carbon stocks.

The Tikka T3, T3X is limited to a 3.34” cartridge that will fit into a Tikka magazine and feed reliably.

Any reason you're not a fan of the carbon barrels? I'm looking at the contours that mcgowen offers and the weights for anything besides a skinny sporter are all at least 1lb heavier than say, a Preferred or Proof carbon wrapped Sendero. Thanks for all the info, I'll definitely consider having McGowen do the work. I probably won't be sending in any dummy rounds, since I won't have the supplies to make any before I get the rifle done (dies, brass etc).

 

[Gila]

Just preference for stainless barrels. For McGowen I have a D-18 contour with spiral flutes that makes it lighter than a stainless Roughtec barrel. I also have a fluted Tikka sporter contour that is light. If you want threads on the Preffered with a lighter contour may want the hybrid Tikka sporter contour. Couldn’t flute their sporter contour.

 

[Balderdash]

First response post nailed it. Gets the OP everything he asked. I shot a lot of heavier magnums over many years, which likely helps, but I have no trouble spotting shots with my 6.5 PRC tikka, no break, no can. It's a joy to shoot and easy to hit with on far off targets.

Being a lefty, I bought a 6.5 PRC Tikka take off barrel from JA because no complete LH rifles were available. It came fluted and threaded. It consistently groups a couple of factory ammo loads at .6 for 3 and right under 1 moa for 10. I have custom barrels on a few 700's and Tikkas, and they dont do much, if any, better. Have bought 3 barrels from JA and they all shoot. Don't dismiss the quality of Tikka OEM barrel.

And have no worries about shooting the barrel out - just order another take off and keep on hammering. But you'll likely get more than you think out of the Tikka OEM barrel.

Have tried a lot of different stocks on Tikkas. I very much like the Stockys VG over other options of that ilk. If looking for more adjustments and dont mind a bit more weight, it's hard to beat the KRG Bravo on a SA Tikka, IMO.

 

[Pharmseller]

Plus 1 on the PRC. I load for my brother, he gets 2934 fps with 156 EOL and little bitty groups. His is suppressed, too.
A 156 doing 2900+ is no joke even waay out there.




P

 

[honestcomrade]

Are you seating near the lands or staying within spec? Throats are notoriously long on most tikkas and I've found when I seat the bullet closer to the lands and load up near max they have all shot well.

With some 140 gr projectiles (nosler b-tip, e-tip, and Barnes LRX) the lands seem to be around 2.930". 7mm-08 saami spec is 2.800" COAL. So yeah, it seems cut pretty long, 130 thousandths jump. The tikka factory mags are pretty short, but maybe I will try and max out a batch and see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Balderdash]

With some 140 gr projectiles (nosler b-tip, e-tip, and Barnes LRX) the lands seem to be around 2.930". 7mm-08 saami spec is 2.800" COAL. So yeah, it seems cut pretty long, 130 thousandths jump. The tikka factory mags are pretty short, but maybe I will try and max out a batch and see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

That's the beauty of building a SA cartridge on a Tikka. If you have the chamber length, pick up a long action mag and bolt stop and you're free to load whatever coal you get away with.

 

[Ajsomp]

Get the stainless tikka. The barrel is great as is. And right now the t3x are cheap before they get the influx of the new tikkas. This is a 6.5 PRC with a new stock and suppressor. Kills great with factory ammo - I’m sure I could do better with hand loads. I’d rather spend money on tags at this point in my journey- even if I have the money to spend on a custom gun with carbon barrel.

 

[StrutbusterMS]

Plus 1 on the PRC. I load for my brother, he gets 2934 fps with 156 EOL and little bitty groups. His is suppressed, too.
A 156 doing 2900+ is no joke even waay out there.




P

Do you know what barrel length for that speed? I’m trying to decide on a rig now and whether I should go the 20/21 route or 24.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Do you know what barrel length for that speed? I’m trying to decide on a rig now and whether I should go the 20/21 route or 24.

For reference I have a chopped/suppressed 21 1/2" factory Tikka barrel sending 143's at 2930 with N565.

I agree with both options, just buying the factory Tikka 6.5 PRC (having a gunsmith clean it up with an AW2 reamer to avoid clickers and throat out to optimize high BC profiles if you reload) and dropping it into a quality aftermarket stock is exactly what I'm currently shooting. I'm also building a 7 PRC that will be a PBB fluted blank finished by Kinport Peak Rifles in Pocatello, and put into the new McMillan Mountain Tracker LR. I prefer steel over carbon because the lighter weight/stiffer concept is just marketing bs, and there are several podcasts featuring gunsmiths that personally prefer a quality steel barrel because they're less finicky and less likely to have issues.

My suggestion FWIW, save money on the rifle and get a can. Either way, don't think you can go wrong.

 

[Pharmseller]

Do you know what barrel length for that speed? I’m trying to decide on a rig now and whether I should go the 20/21 route or 24.

It’s stock, so the specs say 24.3”.




P

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

I own a Tikka 7-08 I bought new in Jan of 2024. Its a tack driver with the 3 loads I've developed so far. I swapped to the LA bolt stop and L mags long ago as I primarily shoot the 162 grain ELDX. However, it also shoots .75-1.25 MOA 10-shot groups with 120 NBT and 150 Fusion. It definitely shows ejector swipes more than my other Tikka when I'm close to pressure. Here are my recipes below and YMMV:

120 NBT
44 grains Varget
Federal 1x fired and necked down .308 brass
2.810 COL

150 Federal Fusion
48.5 grains SB 6.5
Federal 1x fired and necked down .308 brass
2.880 COL

162 ELDX
46.5 grains of SB 6.5
1x fired Alpha OCD 7mm-08 brass
2.925 COL
Out of a chopped 18" barrel suppressed, it generates 2,628 MV.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Plus 1 on the PRC. I load for my brother, he gets 2934 fps with 156 EOL and little bitty groups. His is suppressed, too.
A 156 doing 2900+ is no joke even waay out there.




P

I picked up a stainless Tikka in 6.5 PRC in January for $679. It's at the gunsmith now getting re-chambered to 6.5 WSM and threaded just because I had to be different. I have a spare fluted and threaded OEM 6.5 PRC barrel that is also getting re-chambered for back up.

270 WSM brass is relatively available and its a simple one-step neck down with Lee or Redding dies. I'm going to check accuracy and velocity on the 147 ELDM, 143 ELDX, 140 Fusion, and maybe even the 130 ELDM. Ideally will be able to chop to 20" and still get 3,000+ with the 140s and a hair faster with the lighter stuff.

 

[ABCWest]

I just picked up a T3X Lite Stainless in 6.5 PRC. Haven't mounted a scope or shot it yet though.

Get the stainless tikka. The barrel is great as is. And right now the t3x are cheap before they get the influx of the new tikkas. This is a 6.5 PRC with a new stock and suppressor. Kills great with factory ammo - I’m sure I could do better with hand loads. I’d rather spend money on tags at this point in my journey- even if I have the money to spend on a custom gun with carbon barrel.

Which factory loads did your factory barrel like the most? Was it picky at all? Did you try any copper loadings?

I'm trying to figure out which loads to try out without having to buy every option in the store.

Nice rifle BTW.

Thanks.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Which factory loads did your factory barrel like the most?

I'm trying to figure out which loads to try out without having to buy every option in the store.

Hornady factory ammo usually shoots really well in Hornady designed chambers, I'd bet you'd get good results with the 143 Precision Hunter or 147 Match first, and go from there.

 

[Ajsomp]

I just picked up a T3X Lite Stainless in 6.5 PRC. Haven't mounted a scope or shot it yet though.



Which factory loads did your factory barrel like the most? Was it picky at all? Did you try any copper loadings?

I'm trying to figure out which loads to try out without having to buy every option in the store.

Nice rifle BTW.

Thanks.

I’m not a fan of copper rounds personally. I shoot factory hornady 147 eldm. Shoots great out of the tikka

 

[Packmansion]

I would just rebarrel to 6.5 creed on the 7mm-08. Don't know about you but my local gunsmith is completing guns in just a few weeks if you give him all the parts minus the barrel blank. Call around (I'm not in Boise FYI). He can chamber, thread, and contour a barrel in an afternoon. The 6.5 PRC is an interesting proposition, more money, more recoil, marginally more speed, shorter barrel life, not much benefit inside of 600 yards unless you're comfortable shooting in heavy winds, I'm not 5mph or less for me at longer ranges. If you don't go suppressed I'd get a 24" barrel and thread it for a brake. If you ever want to supress a gunsmith can chop and thread for ~$150 give or take. You're just going to spend more all the way down the road with the 6.5 PRC. More expensive brass less options, more powder per shot... $$$. PRC will be a benefit in wind if you load the burgers... However the added recoil and cost eats up that benefit for me personally. Inside of 400 yards the 6.5 creedmoor is a better cartridge in my opinion and that's where most of the action happens. Depending on if you have horses or ATV etc would really influence things for me. I'm not dragging a tripod into the thick timber where shots of 500 might never occur. The stalk is half the fun. You'll get more practice with the creed and no fear of burning out the barrel. If you really want pinch pennies send you action into PBB and in 10-14 weeks you'll have a new barrel and cost will be in the ball park $800... Not recommended but mcgowen will do it cheaper than pbb. Get a long bolt stop and a Tikka long action mag and enjoy... Alternatively buy a Tikka in 6.5 creedmoor lite stainless and be done with it for ~$1000 after tax. If you get a custom barrel I'd go 1:7. I've had good luck with a little extra twist. You can also just buy a prefit and DIY. Once you see how easy it is with the right tools, like me you will eventually have a pile of prefits lol, sky is the limit.

 

[AndrewMT34]

I'd recommend using the stainless action/bolt unless you want the blued action cerakoted. Since the stainless action is a standard bolt size I'd look hard at 6.5 Creedmor, 6 Creedmoor, or even 22 creedmoor.

If you're going to use the magnum bolt face - 6.5 PRC, 7 SAUM. 6 UM or 6.5-7PRC if you want a wildcat.

Two possible barrel manufacturers/gunsmiths that I've personally had good experiences with:

1. Hells Canyon Armory makes a great carbon barrel. They are in Lewiston, ID, which is about 5 hours from Boise.
2. Unknown Munitions makes "custom" prefits from ACE steel barrels (3b profile keeps weight down). Post Falls is about 6.5 hours from Boise

I recently built 6.5 PRC off my old T3 270WSM stainless action. It shoots lights out with a proof sendero carbon barrel, maven rs1.2, and rokstok. I did change the bolt stop to a long action bolt stop so i could reload long if needed.

 

[Packmansion]

I'd recommend using the stainless action/bolt unless you want the blued action cerakoted. Since the stainless action is a standard bolt size I'd look hard at 6.5 Creedmor, 6 Creedmoor, or even 22 creedmoor.

I would second all those cartridges above and I'd stick to the stainless action as well.