Browning X-bolt hunter 7mm Rem Mag zeroing issues

[Racks_Reps]

Hey all looking to pick some guys brains. I have a browning xbolt 7mm rem mag, topped with a nikon monarch 2.5x10x50 scope with 1" Leupold rings and bases. Bought this rifle maybe 5 years ago and have never had a problem with it. This year I've been periodically shooting just testing different rounds and such and I can't get it to hold a group! It has been cleaned, scope removed and retorqued to specs, double checked barrel free float. Nothing is wrong from what I can tell. My next steps are gonna be a heavy dose of copper deposit cleaner thru the barrel and possibly lapping the scope. Current loads I'm working with are Hornady 139gr SST, 162gr ELDX and federal premium 160 gr nosler partitions. Anybody ever had similar problems? Seriously scratching my head right now.

 

[howl]

You really shouldn't have to completely strip a barrel every time you change bullets. Usually firing a couple rounds of the new ammo before trying to print a group is sufficient.

If that is not the case, change one thing at a time until the problem goes away. A clean barrel is a good call. Use an aggressive copper cleaner and carbon solvent in alternation several times. It should be like a mirror and no blue on the copper patches when done. If that doesn't work, try a different scope known to be good. If those Leupold mounts are the rear windage adjustable Redfield style, get something else. Always double check your mount for tightness after firing a few rounds.

 

[Racks_Reps]

Have a copper cleaner and solvent you recommend? Leupold bases are non adjustable. Lapping scope is last resort, I highly doubt it will help I'm just trying to break everything down. Thanks for the help

 

[Cahunter805]

Bore tech eliminator and then boretech C2 copper solvent. Use a quality coated 1pc rod and a coated/nickel jag. Use a nylon brush also. Brass/bronze will give a false reading with copper solvents.

A few other things to check. Action screws torqued, scope bases torqued, barrel crown damaged. I'd suspect it's just copper fouled. What solvent and cleaning process are you currently using?

 

[stevevan]

Take a look at "WIPEOUT". It's a foam copper solvent. Highly recommended to me by others in the know. I had a similar situation with my 7mm Remy going sour with accuracy. I tried the wipeout and BINGO rifle went back to its old accurate self. Mind you, I used the Wipeout after I tried Butch's Bore Shine, Shooters Choice, and a few other popular solvents. After applying the Wipeout the blue flowed from the muzzle on the first pass of the rod removing copper that was left behind by the others.

 

[howl]

I generally use on WipeOut without brushes. That's on a rifle that only sees one load all the time. On a rifle that sees different loads, I alternate Shooter's Choice for copper and Slip 2000 for carbon. A few series alternating solvents and using brushes should take it to bare metal. The thing is you can get all the copper on the surface, but there is more below a layer of carbon. So remove copper, then carbon, then copper, then...I'm over-explaining this. Even with a clean barrel, you will see fliers if you go from one bullet to another without fouling shots in between.

Leupold double dovetail are pretty good. Their Weaver style aren't bad. I'd suspect the scope before those. Scopes do go bad sometimes.

 

[Cahunter805]

I can't find the thread but Wipeout can corrode and rust a rifle. If using it don't stand the gun on end and be sure to throughly clean the bore and the action after using wipeout.

 

[Mad Mountain Mike]

I've had horrible luck with Nikon scopes and rifles with medium to heavy recoil. Same issue as you, after a while they quit holding zero. Now days I wouldn't put a Nikon on anything heavier than a .243. If you own another scope I'd put it on and see how it goes.

 

[howl]

I can't find the thread but Wipeout can corrode and rust a rifle. If using it don't stand the gun on end and be sure to throughly clean the bore and the action after using wipeout.

SOP with any solvent is to follow up with a corrosion preventative. I think WipeOut suggests their own version. I use CorrosionX or Inox MX3.

This does bring up, though, that we're recommending solvents with no thought about plastic. Can you use WipeOut or anything else without getting it on any plastic-type parts on an X-Bolt? I have a T-Bolt with similar construction. I use Kroil instead of solvent on guns like that.

 

[Racks_Reps]

UPDATE
Went to Cabela's last night and bought some hoppes no.9 and hoppes no.9 black copper solvent. Lets just say I have a long road ahead of me, bleeding blue like crazy. Gotta buy more patches tonight and keep repeating. Thanks for the input guys I hope this helps the grouping.

 

[rlmmarine]

I would suggest a totally different route try swapping scopes and see if the problem clears. Take one from another gun and give it a try. You don't have to zero it just see if it shoots consistent. You may need to send the nikon back

 

[ReddingArcher]

I would try a different scope too, I dont have any experience with Nikon scopes but a buddy of mine has one on his 270 wsm and it quit holding zero his last time out shooting too.

 

[Xxtavixx]

I will strongly suggest Boretech products, I'd go that route before changing scopes out - at the end of the day, if that does not resolve your day you still did maintenance you probably needed to do anyways.

I am OCD about cleaning firearms, I've taken my buddies firearms that would print a 2" group and run boretech through it and shrank them to 1" on several occasions. Copper fouling can do it...