Broadheads Shooting Left

[jcarb]

Hey guys, I recently got new strings on my bow. Got field tips zeroed in perfectly. Got about 300 shots through the new stings so far. Shooting a Bowtech Realm SR6, 69lb draw, 27 inch draw, 300 spine Victory VAP TKOS, 75 grain Ethics outserts, 100 grain field points and 100 grain QAD exodus broadheads. Weird thing is that I used this exact set up last year in the same bow and shot field points and broadheads perfectly. Only things that’s changed is the new strings. Any ideas what could be going on?

 

[diverc18]

Was your bow retuned and timed after the string installation?

 

[jcarb]

It sure was. I’m wondering if I should take a to another shop and see if they make any changes

 

[Mighty Mouse]

It's not uncommon to need some re-tuning after a string change. Add twists to the right side of your yokes and/or shift your rest to the left to fix broadheads hitting left of field points. Here's a handy tuning reference chart from Gold Tip:

 

[Scorpion]

What distance are you shooting and how far are the broadheads grouping from the field points?

Pretty normal for a minor tune change after a new set of strings.

 

[diverc18]

I would also check to see how your bare shafts are flying. They will let you know quick

 

[Bump79]

Your arrows are on the stiff side which is a small part of the problem. Not a big deal, just makes tuning a little more finicky. A 340 or 350 would be better suited for future reference.

@Mighty Mouse got ya covered though

 

[sndmn11]

It's not uncommon to need some re-tuning after a string change. Add twists to the right side of your yokes and/or shift your rest to the left to fix broadheads hitting left of field points. Here's a handy tuning reference chart from Gold Tip:
View attachment 703376
View attachment 703375

Do this

 

[MallardSX2]

Bare shaft tune and then do a 4 fletch helical and try that.

 

[mod-it]

It just needs tuned, a new string set will almost always require a tune again.
Most shops just do a paper tune at 5' with a fletched arrow after installing new strings. That is a rough tune at best, especially if the Tech shot it through paper rather than you. And a new string set will often settle after a couple hundred shots, especially if just a factory string set.

Follow Mighty Mouse's advice.

 

[Zac]

You don’t need to bare shaft tune, or re-fletch your arrows. Just move your rest to the left until the FP and broadhead hit together. Then move your sight to accommodate for the point of impact change. If you’re unable to close them with a little rest movement, then put twists into the left yokes both top and bottom. Or move cams right if you have Deadlock.

 

[mod-it]

You don’t need to bare shaft tune, or re-fletch your arrows. Just move your rest to the left until the FP and broadhead hit together. Then move your sight to accommodate for the point of impact change. If you’re unable to close them with a little rest movement, then put twists into the left yokes both top and bottom. Or move cams right if you have Deadlock.

Add twists to the left yokes for a nock right tear?

 

[5MilesBack]

You've got to tune. New strings.......tune. Change arrows or components......tune. Change draw length.....tune. Adjust rest.......tune. Change grip.....tune.

 

[jcarb]

Your arrows are on the stiff side which is a small part of the problem. Not a big deal, just makes tuning a little more finicky. A 340 or 350 would be better suited for future reference.

@Mighty Mouse got ya covered though

I went with what Victory told me over the phone on spine selection

 

[Bump79]

I went with what Victory told me over the phone on spine selection

Yeah, you're on the line but slightly stiff. Depends on how long your shafts are. Just a little more finicky in my opinion. You can definitely get them to fly though

 

[jcarb]

Thank you guys for the help. I’ll get working on it and let y’all know how it goes!

 

[Zac]

Add twists to the left yokes for a nock right tear?

Pretty sure that’s correct, been a while since I messed with yokes.

 

[jcarb]

Yeah, you're on the line but slightly stiff. Depends on how long your shafts are. Just a little more finicky in my opinion. You can definitely get them to fly though

Would adding or taking weight off front help at all?

 

[Bump79]

Would adding or taking weight off front help at all?

You could try a 125 point and see if it improves. But if you got it to fly last year this shouldn't be the primary concern. I'd start with making sure your cams are in sync, draw weight is as expected (could be slightly lower with the new strings), nock point is correct and you're draw length is right (including d loop). Lot's of variables when you change strings.

 

[sndmn11]

Would adding or taking weight off front help at all?

If the same arrows tuned fine off the same bow before with the same center shot, then the most likely resolution is to yoke tune. the SR6 is very responsive to it and you are likely 1-3 twists from being done, assuming the cams are timed and there is no vertical deviation, and your rest is at true center shot.

You shouldn't need to monkey with arrows that worked before.