Broadhead tuning

[truthcrab]

Hi,
I have a left handed bowtech amplify. Field points grouping almost and sometimes touching at 20 and 30 yards(maximum range I have to work with) I have grouped well at 40 and 50 when I have the chance to shoot far. I have a 27.5" dl shooting 62 lbs I'm shooting 27.5" victory mambas 350 spine 125gr g5 montec.432gr taw with 13.5% foc. Standard aluminuminsert. Have moved the rest every which way and can't get less than 2.5-3" right of field points. Have messed with form and grip with no improvements. Bow shop is no help.

Thanks in advance

 

[PredatoronthePrairie]

I'm not as smart as alot of the archery guys on here.

But I'd start with dropping your point weight back to 100. I shoot the montects for a fair number of years. Both the 100 and 125s. Always had better luck with getting constant flight with the 100s.

After that guessing there is something in your form or tune not quite right.

Have u papertuned at all?

Although not truly nessecary it does give you a quick idea if something is off.

 

[SloppyJ]

Have you tried 100gr heads or different broadheads all together?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Try tuning with the cams. I'm not familiar with that particular model...does it have Deadlock, yokes, shims?

Edit: It looks like that bow doesn't have the Deadlock feature or yokes, so shims would be your only option for laterally adjusting cams to address a left/right tuning issue. Shimming the cams to the left should fix broadheads hitting right of field points.

 

[truthcrab]

I'm not as smart as alot of the archery guys on here.

But I'd start with dropping your point weight back to 100. I shoot the montects for a fair number of years. Both the 100 and 125s. Always had better luck with getting constant flight with the 100s.

After that guessing there is something in your form or tune not quite right.

Have u papertuned at all?

Although not truly nessecary it does give you a quick idea if something is off.

I'll try the 100s tomorrow. I paper tuned last year. Mix results. Worked on grip and form as much as I could. Not sure what else I could tweak. I'll try paper tuning again.

 

[Skerhunter]

I agree with the post above about shimming cams for this model.

What distance are you 2-3” right? FYI if you are shooting correctly you should keep hitting further right the further the distance.

 

[dcestnik]

You can be consistent with torque and/or without being tuned. Sounds like you've checked your centershot against the spec and moved it within reason. Some combination of draw length, form or shims. At a glance should be good on spine but double check it.

 

[truthcrab]

Have you tried 100gr heads or different broadheads all together?

I have tried the 100s last year. I just had some work done at the shop that through my tune off. Wanted some more point weight for elk hunting. Any recommendations for other broadheads?

Try tuning with the cams. I'm not familiar with that particular model...does it have Deadlock, yokes, shims?

Edit: It looks like that bow doesn't have the Deadlock feature or yokes, so shims would be your only option for laterally adjusting cams to address a left/right tuning issue. Shimming the cams to the left should fix broadheads hitting right of field points.

Yes it has shims. It looks like the wider shims are on the right. It's a left handed bow if that makes a difference. I don't have a press. Looking to buy 1 in the next year.

 

[truthcrab]

Have you tried 100gr heads or different broadheads all together?

I have tried the 100s last year. I just had some work done at the shop that through my tune off. Wanted some more point weight for elk hunting. Any recommendations for other broadheads?

I agree with the post above about shimming cams for this model.

What distance are you 2-3” right? FYI if you are shooting correctly you should keep hitting further right the further the distance.

This is at 20 yards. I'll try 30 yards tomorrow. If they stay the same then form is my issue?

 

[Subliminal1]

Here are 2 videos I watched that helped me dial in my broadheads and field tips. I can't promise they will work for you.. but it worked for me. I did the sight adjustment first and the rest adjustment second..

Hope it helps!

 

[Skerhunter]

I have tried the 100s last year. I just had some work done at the shop that through my tune off. Wanted some more point weight for elk hunting. Any recommendations for other broadheads?

This is at 20 yards. I'll try 30 yards tomorrow. If they stay the same then form is my issue?

When broadhead tuning I look for consistency and don’t adjust until I see it. That takes me out of the equation. If I shoot a few rounds and my broadhead is always low then I adjust. All over the place and it’s my fault.

If you are off 3” at 20 yards I would expect 6” at 40. Shoot at 30/40. You can use the rest to correct for a few inches at 40, but not 6” that will be cams.

 

[Ho5tile1]

Shim the cams get as close as you can or perfect that way you don’t have to move center shot or very little if at all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[truthcrab]

Shim the cams get as close as you can or perfect that way you don’t have to move center shot or very little if at all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bow shop won't tune. I don't have a press. Deadlock system is looking good right now.

 

[truthcrab]

When broadhead tuning I look for consistency and don’t adjust until I see it. That takes me out of the equation. If I shoot a few rounds and my broadhead is always low then I adjust. All over the place and it’s my fault.

If you are off 3” at 20 yards I would expect 6” at 40. Shoot at 30/40. You can use the rest to correct for a few inches at 40, but not 6” that will be cams.

30 yards is all I got with out traveling far. I've shot that broadhead a bunch even on different arrows. It's hitting consistently 3inches to the right, with an odd flier(poor shot) the cams are shimmed to the left already(big spacer on right side of cam, small on left) I have zero experience with shimming cams is it possible to go father left? On a left handed bow is it possible to torque right? Or do you usually torque left? I've been screwing with form and grip for a year.

 

[shwacker]

I am in a similar situation right now with only a couple of weeks until hunting elk.

Today I shot through paper a bunch to get more consistent tears. I think my grip and back tension were a bit off. And possibly my draw length is a bit too long (I'm right handed and BH hitting left, getting nock right paper tears).

Next I'm going to try the broadheads again with what I've learned and mess with the rest even more than I already have. I may experiment with shorter draw length.

I was getting decent groups but no rest adjustment would bring FP and BH together, so I suspect hand position/torque issue.

Completely clueless and frustrated with archery.

Ultimately if the broad heads are grouping decently, I'm going to just adjust my sight for this hunt, limit my range, and try to figure it out in the winter.

 

[Beendare]

Are your arrows spinning perfect?

When I can’t get a bow to tune its usually because I skipped a step.

 

[truthcrab]

Are your arrows spinning perfect?

When I can’t get a bow to tune its usually because I skipped a step.

All the arrow spinning bow press fun stuff is on the wish list. Unfortunately I'm limited. Broadheads aren't easy to come by where I am. Don't have the cash to by multiple makes of broadheads. Dipping my toes. Hoping in the next year to come to follow the rabbit hole into tuning. Lots of awesome advice here so far.

 

[Zac]

All the arrow spinning bow press fun stuff is on the wish list. Unfortunately I'm limited. Broadheads aren't easy to come by where I am. Don't have the cash to by multiple makes of broadheads. Dipping my toes. Hoping in the next year to come to follow the rabbit hole into tuning. Lots of awesome advice here so far.

Where are you, and why can’t your shop help? Whenever a bow is maxed out on adjustments then it usually points to something else as the culprit. Your spine should be okay although I didn’t run numbers. I would be interested to see what a bare shaft does. Only to rule out fletching contact, this is common when you crowd your shelf. If it isn’t something like that then you probably have a form issue, draw length issue or both. Spend the money to travel to a good shop and take a lesson. When I have done this, tuning issues as well as form were all covered.

 

[Billy Goat]

Double check your cable routing. I wonder if it's possibly backwards and when timing was set it induced a lot of cam lean.


That's a very long shot, but being left handed, someone might have looked at it backwards.

 

[Skerhunter]

30 yards is all I got with out traveling far. I've shot that broadhead a bunch even on different arrows. It's hitting consistently 3inches to the right, with an odd flier(poor shot) the cams are shimmed to the left already(big spacer on right side of cam, small on left) I have zero experience with shimming cams is it possible to go father left? On a left handed bow is it possible to torque right? Or do you usually torque left? I've been screwing with form and grip for a year.

Don’t second guess yourself - broad heads always right means it’s just not tuned. I have messed with different grips etc and that doesn’t prevent you from tuning, just prevents you from shooting well. Your arrow spine is good and your broadheads are good based on what you have shared.

Your bow shop should have different shims available. Start over and confirm factory ATA, timing, and center shot, before you shim. Right now you should be shimmed left and rest should be way out of spec to the right. Double check cams/cables are set up correctly too, but that should show up in ata/timing check. If the shop says they can’t shim anymore and everything checks out there is a chance you have bigger issue preventing you from being able to tune.