Broadhead tuning wtih yokes?

[MT257]

Setup:
Hoyt rx-1
27DL, 69 draw weight, 340 axis easton, 27 3/8" c to c, nocturnal, 3 blazer, wrap, QAD HDX rest,
100 grain Iron Will Soild

So I have started shooting broadheads for the fall. Initally I shot mulitple times at 20 yards the broad head impacted 4-5" left of field tip. I repeated this multiple times to make sur it was consistent. Moved the rest to the left and saw no change. Reset rest to original position. Then tried to move rest to right. Still did not see the two come together.

My question: Would adding a twist in the right and taking a twist out of the left help bring the two together? Also would two twist be safe to put in the right and take out of the left then if they come together fine tune it with the rest?

Maybe its my set up or myself but would I be hard headed to believe I should be able to any broadhead to shoot out of this bow? Or would this be a case where I may need to shoot other heads?

Thanks.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Yes, twisting the right yoke and untwisting the left yoke should help correct broadheads impacting left of field points. I don't know the "safe" limits of yoke twisting, but I think ±2 would be fine.

I would agree that you should be able to tune your bow to get any broadhead to fly well. As fixed blade heads go, Iron Wills aren't particularly large and shouldn't be especially hard to tune.

Another thing to check/consider: if you're using a collar, footer, and/or weighted insert, 340 spine may be borderline weak.

For reference in case you haven't seen these before, below are handy tuning charts from Gold Tip:

 

[jmez]

Don't worry about 2 twists, you can do more if needed. You will end up with a lot more twist in the right yoke than the left on a Hoyt, that's how they tune.

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[Zac]

Looks like you could cut that arrow down a bit as well if you end up being weak.

 

[MT257]

I’m curious also and I know everyone has their own opinion but it seems I’ve gotten a wide variety of feedback over the summer saying I could be weak or I could be over spined. How does every one come the conclusion I may be weak(needing to go to a 300 spine?)

 

[Mighty Mouse]

How does every one come the conclusion I may be weak(needing to go to a 300 spine?)

Software such as Archers Advantage or OnTarget2/Pinwheel would give the most comprehensive/customized spine recommendation. I trialed those programs a few years ago but declined to purchase when the free trial period expired.

A spine chart like the one below from Gold Tip is a good starting point. Victory has a spine calculator on their website that allows you to enter each individual component weight. Both of those sources indicate that 340 spine is good for your draw weight and arrow length with 100 gr point but possibly weak if you add extra point weight.

 

[MT257]

Software such as Archers Advantage or OnTarget2/Pinwheel would give the most comprehensive/customized spine recommendation. I trialed those programs a few years ago but declined to purchase when the free trial period expired.

A spine chart like the one below from Gold Tip is a good starting point. Victory has a spine calculator on their website that allows you to enter each individual component weight. Both of those sources indicate that 340 spine is good for your draw weight and arrow length with 100 gr point but possibly weak if you add extra point weight.
View attachment 203429

Yes I was gonna shoot collars, but decided against it.

 

[justin davis]

I set my arrow down the middle of the shelf and yoke tune to bring broadheads and field points together. You should be able to get them to hit with yoke tuning. I have found can tune a lot of arrows that others will say are “weak.”

 

[Evol]

I’m curious also and I know everyone has their own opinion but it seems I’ve gotten a wide variety of feedback over the summer saying I could be weak or I could be over spined. How does every one come the conclusion I may be weak(needing to go to a 300 spine?)

I just ran it through archers advantage for you and it's saying slightly stiff (assuming std inserts). 50 up front gets you optimum.

Do you have any other broadheads you can test or maybe put a little weight on the front to see if it corrects?

Any rest contact ruled out?

 

[Brendan]

You're not weak. Ran it through Pinwheel. Unless you're starting to go over 150 grains of weight (BH, Insert, Collar) up front. Even 175 should work, although starts trending a little weaker, but if you cut your arrow down to 26" that'd be fine.

Arrow down the center, yoke tune, but make sure you rule out fletching contact first. If your nock fit is really tight that can also cause issues sometimes.

I do like to make sure bow is timed correctly before I start yoke tuning.

 

[Evol]

You're not weak. Ran it through Pinwheel. Unless you're starting to go over 150 grains of weight (BH, Insert, Collar) up front. Even 175 should work, although starts trending a little weaker, but if you cut your arrow down to 26" that'd be fine.

Arrow down the center, yoke tune, but make sure you rule out fletching contact first. If your nock fit is really tight that can also cause issues sometimes.

I do like to make sure bow is timed correctly before I start yoke tuning.

My money is on fletching contact especially with blazers. I have to turn my nocks a little so that my arrow clears the cables.

 

[MT257]

I just ran it through archers advantage for you and it's saying slightly stiff (assuming std inserts). 50 up front gets you optimum.

Do you have any other broadheads you can test or maybe put a little weight on the front to see if it corrects?

Any rest contact ruled out?

View attachment 203441

I do have some G5 strikers I’d rather not have to shoot if necessary. Yesterday I did put a 10 grain iron wills collar on the front no noticeable difference. I know 10 grains is much but that’s all I had and yes they are standard hit inserts. I also took the qad containment bar and reduced the thickness by have to eliminate any contact which I didn’t so it was just an extra measure.

 

[Evol]

How do the strikers fly? Are you shooting cock vane straight up?

 

[MT257]

Cock vane up. I haven’t shot the strikers yet because I figured these iron wills are my head I will be hunting with for the fall. Don’t really wanna shoot the strikers if I don’t have to.

 

[Evol]

Cock vane up. I haven’t shot the strikers yet because I figured these iron wills are my head I will be hunting with for the fall. Don’t really wanna shoot the strikers if I don’t have to.

Check and see if the blazers are clearing your cables. I had a similar issue with the HyperForce and that was my issue. I had to rotate the nock so they wouldn't contact.

 

[MT257]

Check and see if the blazers are clearing your cables. I had a similar issue with the HyperForce and that was my issue. I had to rotate the nock so they wouldn't contact.

contact isn’t an issue.

 

[Brendan]

Contact needs to be tested with something like spray foot powder or talc to be sure. You'll pull your hair out if you have even a small amount.

If no contact, twist the yokes.

But, if it's not contact, and yokes and/or rest don't clear it up: Then it's probably you and your form. Torquing the bow, draw length, hard facial pressure, etc.

Also, make sure broadheads have been put on a spinner and spin true with no wobble. But beyond that, any good broadhead can be tuned to hit with field points.

 

[OR Archer]

Did you tune the bow with the lighted nocks? If not Id start there and get a good tune. Lighted nocks are not my favorite. They are in my opinion very inconsistent and I have seen them cause poor broadhead flight even with a good tune.

 

[MT257]

Did you tune the bow with the lighted nocks? If not Id start there and get a good tune. Lighted nocks are not my favorite. They are in my opinion very inconsistent and I have seen them cause poor broadhead flight even with a good tune.

I actually did tune with the lighted nock. I would have never even thought of it.

 

[Florida Bow Hunter]

Why suggest a Gold Tip chart when the arrow is an Easton and Easton devised spine charts ???

70 pounds and your DL 350 spine is fine. 400 might be an issue. Axis are thin diameters and I feel flex a bit more then a 6mm+ shaft for example.

Here’s what I would have done, and did for the past 30 years.

Shoot your arrow thru paper getting a bullethole, using yoke first and trusting you got the rest set right from the get go. Couple micro adjusts on the rest to tighten your bullethole ? Fine. The drawboard has made cam timing a cinch. I used to draw in a mirror to watch the cams. Lol , this cures cam timing and your yoke your cam lean.

Next, bareshaft it the same. Normally the bareshaft blows right thru tighter than the fletched.

Once bulletholes are done. Set a close 10 yard pin, hitting 12 0’clock or so on the bull, not 6 o’clock.

Go to 40 yards using masking tape to make a perfect +.

Using your 1 sighted in pin placed on the intersection of the + , shoot. Your objective is to hit the line, it will be low by I guess 8 inches or so depending on bow speed. Adjust your pin to hit that line.

Now go to 20 using the same pin, 30 with the 30 pin, 40 with the 50 and so on.

Next go to 40 with your broadhead. Adjust from your yoke if you are East and west. If you’re not hitting with tips, before any changes, try a few different arrows and broadheads. I always number my vanes.

Most times if I’m off I blend the sight with a yoke, do everything possible to leave the rest alone. Most times with a Hoyt, doing this, I’m dead on.

If I need to touch the yoke, I always recheck the paper tune and drawboard. I want tight arrow flite with broadheads for max penetration upon impact.

Hoyt is about as easy to tune as there is.


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