Broadhead tuning wtih yokes?

406unltd

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That arrow is stiff. Put some point weight up front or crank the limbs down all the way if you aren’t already to confirm.
 

sndmn11

"DADDY"
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My question: Would adding a twist in the right and taking a twist out of the left help bring the two together? Also would two twist be safe to put in the right and take out of the left then if they come together fine tune it with the rest?

Yes. My wife had a 6" variance at 50 yards last weekend and half a twist did the trick.
 

5MilesBack

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Yes. My wife had a 6" variance at 50 yards last weekend and half a twist did the trick.

1/2 twist goes a long ways at 50+ yards variations. My BH's were 5" right of FP's at 60 consistently and 1/2 twist in the left yoke and they're all good now. But that was with BH's, bare shafts, and fletched all touching at 20 yards before shooting them at 60 yards..
 
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Why suggest a Gold Tip chart when the arrow is an Easton and Easton devised spine charts ???
Static spine is determined according to a standardized method (ASTM F2031-05), so a 0.340" deflection Gold Tip shaft will be equivalent (from a static spine perspective) to a 0.340" deflection Easton shaft. There probably are some minor differences in methodology baked into each manufacturer's spine chart, but the charts are pretty similar across manufacturers. I like Gold Tip's chart because it explicitly shows different point weights. FWIW, Easton's chart shows 340 spine to be good for the OP's draw weight/arrow length with 100 gr point and marginally weak with 150+ gr point weight. The charts aren't gospel though, and I wouldn't worry too much about being marginally weak. Others in this thread have shown that spine shouldn't be a problem. The only reason I mentioned spine is because the OP didn't list full component specs and could've conceivably been shooting a heavy insert making total point weight significantly higher than 100 gr.
 

Rob5589

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Assuming you've done everything else, start twisting the yokes. I needed to put 4 twists on an Obsession I owned, wasn't an issue. I won't generally go more than 2 twists at a time, shoot a few shots to confirm, then twist more if necessary.
 
OP
M

MT257

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So I went and shot again this evening hadn't touched at thing, Iron wills flew 6-8" left multiple times. I also took my g5 strikers, they flew right in with the field tips. Not sure I will be messing with the yokes. I will be shooting those g5 for the fall
 

Brendan

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So I went and shot again this evening hadn't touched at thing, Iron wills flew 6-8" left multiple times. I also took my g5 strikers, they flew right in with the field tips. Not sure I will be messing with the yokes. I will be shooting those g5 for the fall


100% your choice, but if you can't get a head like Iron will to hit with your field points, you've got something else going on in your setup and you're out of tune. If you get close to the season, shoot the striker, but I'd still want that issue fixed as it can cause other problems.
 
OP
M

MT257

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100% your choice, but if you can't get a head like Iron will to hit with your field points, you've got something else going on in your setup and you're out of tune. If you get close to the season, shoot the striker, but I'd still want that issue fixed as it can cause other problems.

Only thing I have not done is shoot a bare shaft next to a field tip and broadhead. Only difference I can think of that I have not really thought of nor do I think it should be an issue is shooting a match grade shaft vs a normal shaft...
 

Brendan

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Only thing I have not done is shoot a bare shaft next to a field tip and broadhead. Only difference I can think of that I have not really thought of nor do I think it should be an issue is shooting a match grade shaft vs a normal shaft...

I'm not convinced you don't have contact issues, need to do a check by coating everything with talc or spray foot-powder. And, you haven't yoke tuned yet. Also need to make sure every arrow spins true on an arrow spinner. Until you 100% check the first and third, and then do the yoke tuning, I wouldn't be doing anything else.

Bare shaft tuning isn't going to tell you any different, and this issue wouldn't be related to a higher tolerance shaft.
 
OP
M

MT257

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I'm not convinced you don't have contact issues, need to do a check by coating everything with talc or spray foot-powder. And, you haven't yoke tuned yet. Also need to make sure every arrow spins true on an arrow spinner. Until you 100% check the first and third, and then do the yoke tuning, I wouldn't be doing anything else.

Bare shaft tuning isn't going to tell you any different, and this issue wouldn't be related to a higher tolerance shaft.

I spun the arrows last night before going to range. Both heads spun good. I even removed the containment bar on the qad rest, I did not coat everything with powder, but I have twisted the cock vane to roughly 1 o'clock which is giving me roughly 1/8"clearance between vanes and cables. Also, during arrow flight field tips and the g5 fly great, I can not say the iron wills are flying horribly its just the impact is left.

heck even went as far as using an ASD to align the blades to my vanes for the iron will
 

Brendan

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I spun the arrows last night before going to range. Both heads spun good. I even removed the containment bar on the qad rest, I did not coat everything with powder, but I have twisted the cock vane to roughly 1 o'clock which is giving me roughly 1/8"clearance between vanes and cables. Also, during arrow flight field tips and the g5 fly great, I can not say the iron wills are flying horribly its just the impact is left.

heck even went as far as using an ASD to align the blades to my vanes for the iron will

Check for contact using the powder. It takes about a minute once you have it on hand. It's literally that easy, no reason not to do it.

Then, Yoke tune.

Blade Alignment to vanes doesn't matter.

If that doesn't fix it, it's probably something messed up with you or your form as your arrow spine isn't out of line. Iron will is regarded as a very, very well flying head and I had zero problems getting them to hit with my field points out over 80 yards (except a little elevation difference). Many people report the same.
 
OP
M

MT257

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Check for contact using the powder. It takes about a minute once you have it on hand. It's literally that easy, no reason not to do it.

Then, Yoke tune.

Blade Alignment to vanes doesn't matter.

If that doesn't fix it, it's probably something messed up with you or your form as your arrow spine isn't out of line. Iron will is regarded as a very, very well flying head and I had zero problems getting them to hit with my field points out over 80 yards (except a little elevation difference). Many people report the same.

So I will check with the powder this evening. One thought/question. Why would only one head have erratic flight? If contact or form issues are present wouldn’t it be logical to think that it would show up in all broadheads shot?
 

5MilesBack

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Some BH's are more forgiving than others. You mention shooting at 20 yards in your first post with the IW's 4-5" left..........then you state they are 6-8" left..........what distance was that at? Even 4-5" off is a LOT off at 20 yards. At 60 you'd probably miss the target completely.

Definitely something going on there. Shoot a bare shaft at 20 as well with your fletched. That will tell you a lot, and will also show you what's going on without regard to fletching contact. If your BS's are also way left and nock right then it has to be a tuning issue........but you still could have vane contact. Not sure if I read it or not.........which vanes are you using?
 

Brendan

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So I will check with the powder this evening. One thought/question. Why would only one head have erratic flight? If contact or form issues are present wouldn’t it be logical to think that it would show up in all broadheads shot?

5MB beat me to it, but not necessarily. Some heads don't plane or catch air as much as others. The striker is definitely on the forgiving end of the spectrum.

But with the Iron Will - assuming there's not something wrong with the head, and it spins true (unlikely there's an issue here) it's something we've mentioned above. Iron Will is one of the best heads on the market and pretty easy to tune.
 
OP
M

MT257

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Some BH's are more forgiving than others. You mention shooting at 20 yards in your first post with the IW's 4-5" left..........then you state they are 6-8" left..........what distance was that at? Even 4-5" off is a LOT off at 20 yards. At 60 you'd probably miss the target completely.

Definitely something going on there. Shoot a bare shaft at 20 as well with your fletched. That will tell you a lot, and will also show you what's going on without regard to fletching contact. If your BS's are also way left and nock right then it has to be a tuning issue........but you still could have vane contact. Not sure if I read it or not.........which vanes are you using?

so when I mentioned the distances the first time 4-5 I was just generally speaking of what I recalled at the range from day prior. I did not have a tap to measure. I then went ahead and reshot last night. Again guessing 6-8” at 20 yards.
As far as fletching I am shooting 2” blazers. I rotated the vanes so that when looking from nock to tip you could see 1/8” clearance from vane to cable. These vanes are white. I figured if I would have any sort of contact the contact mark would show on the white vane like they had done in the past. I shot the arrows. Vanes came back clean.
 

jmez

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If your BH is 6-8 inches off at 20 yards I'd start with the bareshaft at 10 yards, not 20. You may have to switch your shims on the bottom cam.
 
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It doesn't take much contact at all to alter your broadhead flight, and you won't notice it with field points. I wouldn't count on seeing marks on your vanes, that might take a pile of shots to develop. Have you switched which arrows your broadheads are on? Sometimes it might only be a single arrow that is messed up, especially with a clearance issue.
 
OP
M

MT257

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It doesn't take much contact at all to alter your broadhead flight, and you won't notice it with field points. I wouldn't count on seeing marks on your vanes, that might take a pile of shots to develop. Have you switched which arrows your broadheads are on? Sometimes it might only be a single arrow that is messed up, especially with a clearance issue.
Yes arrows have been swapped. Heck I even rotated the arrow.
 
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