Broadhead tuning sucks

[madkaw284]

To make it simpler I should say it like this, my arrows appear to be entering the target straight still since I can’t easily see bright green fletchings and wraps. So In my head that means nothing’s way out of whack that’s detrimental and would lead to wounding something. Keep in mind I shoot a 575 grain 4 fletch arrow with 70ish lbs at a 30 inch draw. So as long as my arrows hit on center left to right from say 10 to 60 I’d guess I’m fine, And maybe just stay focused on shot execution for now? Thoughts?

Definitely keep focusing on good shot execution and form. If you have access to a press you can work wonders. If your broadheads are consistently hitting to the right and it’s no form or shot flaw then I would personally tune it out. If you don’t have access to a press you can continue to bump the rest to your comfort level, sometimes moving the rest works and sometimes it doesn’t. You can always mark the rest and set it back if you see no improvement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[justin davis]

I like To bare shaft. Generally if my bareshaft safe hitting with fletched at 30 yards. I will then fine tune at longer yards. Broadheads usually hit close when my bareshafts are flying good.


Here is a bareshaft and fletched at 105 yards. Little off but my elevation is good.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I shoot that many arrows nearly everyday. My 60 is the home base for my slider and I make sure it is dead nuts as the rest of everything is built from 60 down and 60 up.

You mentioned that you take fliers out of the equation and don't consider those to be part of your group. What happens when that occurs on the first shot?

 

[RosinBag]

I don’t worry about it. I know where my arrow is going to be in the target before it gets there. I know when I break a good shot where it will be and know when I break a bad one where it is going to miss.

I don’t shoot one or two arrows though. If I am at 60 for example I will shoot six to eight arrows before I go pull.

 

[Austink47]

All broad heads don’t fly the same, obvious maybe. I had to go through several before I figured out that kudu points and ozcut take downs fly pretty good out of my set up. I have a pretty lengthy process, but they end up groping as good as I shoot. Number every arrow take notes on how each one shoots, try turning nocks, and swapping heads, verify out to your max effective range and put the good ones in the kill quiver. In short if your bow is shooting good mess with your arrows not the bow.

 

[Billy Goat]

I like To bare shaft. Generally if my bareshaft safe hitting with fletched at 30 yards. I will then fine tune at longer yards. Broadheads usually hit close when my bareshafts are flying good.


Here is a bareshaft and fletched at 105 yards. Little off but my elevation is good.

Nuts.


I don't know the work up you did to get there. But I would be hesitant.

By nuts I mean cahounas?? Or what ever they call those things guys hang on the back of big diesels.

 

[Billy Goat]

When you get into tuning keep a notebook. Keep track of any adjustments you made. When you get to long distance keep a piece of paper that you log each shot. Label your arrows and when you shootake a note of the execution. Felt left, right, or high, low. It will help. Get to where you can call your shots.

 

[RosinBag]

When you get into tuning keep a notebook. Keep track of any adjustments you made. When you get to long distance keep a piece of paper that you log each shot. Label your arrows and when you shootake a note of the execution. Felt left, right, or high, low. It will help. Get to where you can call your shots.

Sound advice!

 

[N2TRKYS]

I don’t worry about it. I know where my arrow is going to be in the target before it gets there. I know when I break a good shot where it will be and know when I break a bad one where it is going to miss.

I don’t shoot one or two arrows though. If I am at 60 for example I will shoot six to eight arrows before I go pull.

Too bad you don't get that luxury when hunting. I prefer to practice the way I hunt. But hey, if you can discount any shots you want, a 2" group at 60 yds wouldn't be that hard to do.

 

[RosinBag]

Too bad you don't get that luxury when hunting. I prefer to practice the way I hunt. But hey, if you can discount any shots you want, a 2" group at 60 yds wouldn't be that hard to do.

I don’t need that luxury, my misses are not big. But thanks for looking out for me.

 

[IdahoHntr]

Only 40 with a pretty good left to right wind so I know that will mess with it to a degree. But I’d say I felt I was making a ton of well executed shots and the grouping showed it. That’s why I’m curious if I should even worry about what I did to the rest since It still grouped about as good as I ever grouped at 40 with just field points

If you had a pretty good left to right wind, that could explain your broadheads hitting right of your field points by a few inches. Fixed heads are much more vulnerable to wind drift than field points. I would try not to broadhead tune unless there's little to no wind or your indoors. Practice in the wind, but don't tune with it.

 

[dreamingbig]

I can get a fixed blade to fly with my field points to 40 yards. I don’t move my rest. I yoke tune if needed.

Here is a picture at 30 yards. It is close enough for me. I actually pulled the field point a touch. Cross wind.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[justin davis]

Here is a bareshaft and a fletched at 90 yards. I can’t do it everytime but it’s fun to
Practice.


Also remember not all broadheads are equal. Some fly much better than others

 

[N2TRKYS]

I don’t need that luxury, my misses are not big. But thanks for looking out for me.

You’re welcome. Somebody has too.

 

[Topo_trekker]

I will admit I’m not the greatest shot. I shoot pretty good with field points but every year I struggle to get broadheads to impact the same. I have watched tons of videos and know the steps but it just never really works for me. I bump my rest up or right or left(very small adjustments) and then my broadheads AND field points both move. And people say fixed blades only fly like field points if your bow is tuned. So if you paper tune and your rest is perfect, why then move it to get broadheads to hit the same? Super confusing to me. I know there are a lot of tuning methods but it seems like rest adjustment and string/cable adjustment are the bulk of it. Is it possible that a bow can be perfectly tuned for field point flight but then it must be rearranged and tuned a different way for broadheads?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Torque. Figure out your grip and train yourself to shoot through paper and get a bullethole every time or at least 9/10. Figure it out. Make sure your thumb and not more than pointer and maybe middle is just barely contacting grip. This will fix a lot for most guys when bow/arrows are tuned and still having problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bowtech840]

I quit shooting groups years ago, one arrow, walk and pull. Why would I care about a 2” group? I can get closer than 60 yards when hunting sparrows. I’ll put it in the zone all day long at 60 without a problem and I don’t even consider myself that great of shot. I only shoot 5 months out of the year and when I pick the bow up every July it’s the same outcome.........with today’s technology it’s like riding a bike. Guys can make shooting a bow as challenging as they want but in reality it’s not that challenging at all. Or maybe I’m just a natural


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

I’m Starting to worry that’s way to far but if my 3field points grouped in Around the diameter of a golf ball should I even really worry about it being out of tune?

Here's a pic of FP's and a bare shaft from last year when I was trying to tune my rebuilt bow that had the limbs in the wrong spots. This was the best it would tune, no matter what adjustments were made. I had to grab the grip and almost derail the bow to get a straight BS.


While that grouping may look fine, the bow obviously was not in tune. A bow can group FP's very well that isn't in tune. But it just depends on how anal or OCD you are about your setup to go beyond that.

Lots of guys are OK just hitting a pie plate out to whatever distance. I'm not satisfied with just hitting the plate, I want to be able to hit whatever part of that plate I'm aiming at. A lot of my practice is not shooting for the center of the bullseye, it's shooting for the different clock positions where the different colored rings meet. So maybe 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock on the outer edge of the red ring where it meets the blue ring. Or whatever other clock positions or rings I choose.

Sometimes I'll shoot my first arrow (with its bright yellow visible fletching) into the middle and then shoot the clock positions around that arrow. The only way to do that consistently is if your setup is such that the arrow is always hitting behind your pins. Someone with a 10" pin float at 60 yards will NEVER find that kind of accuracy. You have to set the bow up so it does what you want it to do. And that's the tricky part, and a heck of a lot of trial and error. An expert like Gillingham I'm sure can take any bow and have it set perfectly to fit him (as long it goes to his draw length) in a very short order. For the rest of us, it's trial and error to get the right feel, the exact draw length that fits us best, and the perfect tune while getting the rest of all that. I'm still working on mine, and have been daily since early June. It's still just not quite right for what I expect and demand for feel and hold.

But the bottom line is........if you get your bow set up so that the arrows are always hitting behind your pins, and you can get it to have minimal float, there has to be a very high level of accuracy. If the pin is on the bullseye at release (or wherever else you put it), then the arrow should hit there. If it doesn't, then there's still work to do because the arrows aren't hitting behind the pin.

I'm a little (or a lot) ADHD most likely, and I get bored easily. Shooting groups gets boring at any distance. But I really like shooting stuff.......so I shoot a lot of things, and a lot of different things, and always aim small miss small. I like shooting at the eyeballs on 3D targets.

 

[xcutter]

Here is a bareshaft and a fletched at 90 yards. I can’t do it everytime but it’s fun to
Practice.


Also remember not all broadheads are equal. Some fly much better than others

Do you notice a big difference shooting the 6 fletch? I've been shooting 4 fletch since last year. I saw improvement with fixed blade broadheads. Haven't tried 6 fletch yet.

 

[justin davis]

Do you notice a big difference shooting the 6 fletch? I've been shooting 4 fletch since last year. I saw improvement with fixed blade broadheads. Haven't tried 6 fletch yet.

I haven’t noticed a huge difference. What I did notice is that by using tiny vanes in a 6 fletch it’s a very small profile. Small side profile for wind and small profile for shooting. I fletched these up for a sheep hunt last year and have stuck with them because I like them. I’ve found I hardly ever tear vanes up with this setup compared to shooting 3 higher profile vanes when shooting groups.

I don’t think vanes make a huge difference in accuracy. But there is a difference in sound and clearance.

 

[Boxerboxer]

Too bad you don't get that luxury when hunting. I prefer to practice the way I hunt. But hey, if you can discount any shots you want, a 2" group at 60 yds wouldn't be that hard to do.

Unless I misunderstand @RosinBag, The context is not practice, it's checking tune, i.e. is the GEAR doing what it's supposed to. So if you know you failed to execute a good shot, you should definitely NOT put any stock in that arrow, because it doesn't reflect what happens when you do your part. Obviously you can't make a perfect shot every time, and for the purpose of something like determining max ethical shot distance of course you can't discount a flier, but if checking out your equipment, you shouldn't be making decisions about whether you're in tune based on an arrow you know was a bad shot.