Broadhead tuning & shooting form question

[mmccolloch]

I see the same. Try a lower wrist on your grip and see if anything changes.

Jason, not sure I understand what you mean by lower wrist. Can you enlighten me on that.

BackcountryMT: if my bow is tourqued to the left at full draw based on the picture, that to me could explain a lot of these issues and it's something I'd like to fix prior to messing with my bow any more. Any tips on fixing the torque other than reducing my draw length? I'm going to try and get new pictures posted today of my new draw form.

Thanks fellas!

 

[Jason Snyder]

http://bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/grip/

This explains it pretty well. Basically, you are just letting the grip of the bow settle in more on the heel of your thumb. When I switched from a Mathews to a Bowtech, I found that I shot better with a lower wrist grip.

Also, yes torqueing the bow like you are would cause the problems you are experiencing. Personally, I'd go with more of a bent elbow on your bow arm and shorten up your draw length but that's just me.

 

[mmccolloch]

Alright Guys, Check out these updated pictures. I think you guys were really on to something with the draw length. Based on what I can see between the two draw length comparisons, the 28.5" draw really allows me to settle in & based on the pictures, I think it eliminates or reduces the bow from torquing to the left. Also, It looks Like I'm more upright instead of leaning back. Another cool thing was looking at the cam lean/string angle at full draw between the two draw lengths. It looks like decreasing the draw length to 28.5" really helps me keep everything in a straight line. Based on the 28.5" draw length cam picture, the sights, string, arrow, & cam all appear to be in pretty good alignment. I'm sure my form still isn't perfect, but I think shortening my draw definitely helped. I haven't shot any groups at the new draw length to see if any of this has helped since it is the frozen tundra here in Iowa this weekend (-19 with the wind chill...) I'm anxious to hear all of your opinions on the updated pictures!!!

29" draw pictures:






28.5" draw pictures:

View attachment 32350

View attachment 32351

 

[mmccolloch]

Cam pictures at full draw. Previous post would only allow 5 attachments.

29" full draw cam:



28.5" full draw cam:

 

[BackcountryMT]

Broadhead tuning & shooting form question

Pictures aren't working for me

 

[mmccolloch]

Pictures are updated, hopefully they work now.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Your photo at full draw with 29" from above and behind looks like you have a slight bend in your wrist, instead of your wrist being completely relaxed and in direct line from your elbow to your release. A DL that is too long promotes this bending, and it will create havoc with your BH flight.

 

[BackcountryMT]

That 28.5" looks a lot better and your torque issue seems to have diminished greatly!

 

[mmccolloch]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I got to shoot 3 arrows this morning before running out to do some errands. I need to adjust my peep, and sights again. The broadhead was high left. Field point elevation was right on, but it missed to the right. Bare shafts was rail right.

Should the next step be to start over with the paper tune?

 

[Jason Snyder]

Move your rest slightly to the right and see if that closes the gap. If it does, move it a smidge more. Or, you can start by moving your rest down/nock point up a very small amount.

Just don't move both at the same time, work on one flight characteristic at a time.

Edit: I don't spend a lot of time paper tuning. I paper tuned my bow when I bought it. I shot the heck out of it, then tuned for broadhead flight. You can also do walkback tuning or French tuning. Paper tuning only shows what is going on with your arrow at that exact point in time and may not be the same before or after that.

 

[mmccolloch]

Alright guys, I'm still working through some of this stuff, but I think I found another piece of information that may help. Shortening my draw length seems to have helped my tail right tear. It appears to be about cut in half, now it is about 1.5" right with tail low.

Based on where the the bow tech tied my D-loop and set my rest, currently, my arrow sits about 1/8" nock high on the string and the center line of the arrow runs just under the center line of the Berger holes. Per the Bear manual, the center line of the arrow needs to run through the center of the Berger holes, so the rest may need to be adjusted up to get to this point. Is my theory on nocking position and arrow location correct?

The next thing I tried as a test was lowering my arrow rest elevation. This got the majority of the low tear out, but doing this lowered the rest too far and when the drop away went off, the rest hit the riser and made a clunk sound.

I reset the rest back to the previous position and drew the bow a bunch of times taking note of the position of the draw stops. I noticed that bottom cam string stop hits the cable about 0.25" BEFORE the top cam (it was hard to tell the exact measurement without a drawboard but 0.25" is close.) It seems that the bow is out of time by a bit. Would this cam/timing condition cause a tail low paper tear? If I take a twist or two out of the control cable to get the top cam to hit the draw stop at the same time as the bottom cam, what effect will this have on my current nocking point?

Also, I found this article on the Googleweb, What are your thoughts on it?: https://sites.google.com/site/technicalarchery/technical-discussions-1/arrow-tuning

 

[boom]

Maybe move rest up
To square arrow to string. My last bow, a crazy left tear went away when I move rest up.

My current bow had the tiniest tear. More of a sloppy hole. I swapped drop aways and put the arrow in the same height and centershot. First arrow. Super crispy clean paper tear. I got lucky when I screwed on my broadhead. Great POI out to whatever distance.

I cinched things tight, uttered a prayer thanks. And went hunting.

 

[mmccolloch]

Alright guys, I think I finally got this issue figured out. I wanted to thank everybody for all of the great insight and comments, you really helped me out!

It turns out, that after my bow was "timed," it wasn't timed properly. I finally found somebody locally that was able to help me out. They re-timed the bow (the top cam was about 1/4" behind the bottom cam.) The tech also yoke tuned my top cam as there was a small amount of cam lean present. After those two things were adjusted, the rest was moved to the left by about 1/32" and now I'm shooting bullet holes through paper & my broadheads are hitting dead on with my field points.

Thanks again everyone!!!