Broadhead tuning - RESOLVED + Deer Down

[bmart2622]

Pretty sure he posted the link to show a visual diagram of why moving the rest towards the broadhead works

 

[doc holiday13]

Over the last 5 years I've found that tuning a bow is something that requires patience and an understanding of arrow flight. It probably takes about 2 hours of putting the bow in a press and shooting it to get it in full tune.

My own personal rule is to have my bow set to factory spec. Nocking point and arrow rest perpendicular to strings and running center center through the berger hole with the center of the arrow being 13/16 from the shelf. having the cams properly timed to each other

from what I would call factory zero I would make big changes left/right with yoke tune/cam shimming. and vertical changes with nock point. when its super close make minor changes with the arrow rest since in theory its the directional influence that makes the most finite changes.

I do disagree with the left/right changes being effected by spine stiffness/weakness. Bows are so adjustable that we can account for weakness/stiffness with bow adjustments. Bows older than ~2002 had much less adjustability and weak/stiff spine was part of the tuning process. If you're looking to tune your bow to the max, i'd say everyone should have a 200 or 150 spine arrow for initial paper tuning. In theory, you can't have too stiff of a spine to get your bow shooting straight. The spine does play a role in accuracy and grouping but if your bow isn't squared, spine won't necessarily fix the issue. So if you're looking for the MOST accurate and best grouping, you'll need 3 spines. Dudley made a good video on this last year. He shot the same bow with 3 different spine arrows to show grouping

 

[SDHNTR]

OP, you know one more thing that might help you is to consider swapping out that grip on your DXT. When I shot Mathews of that vintage swapping out the grip was one of the first things I did on a new bow. That big fat wooden grip is not very conducive to proper hand position. There are lots of options now, but something like a Shrewd grip in a low wrist configuration might help you. For me it was a mandatory change on Matthews.

 

[Tilzbow]

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/conflicting-tuning.208188/post-2026440

Mighty Mouse to the rescue! Thanks and I read that entire thread just to make sure I didn’t post on it three years ago which would prove how bad my memory is…..

 

[SDHNTR]

Yeah, MM’s chart makes sense if the rest is so far off center shot to cause that yaw effect with the arrow kicking around the riser and changing directions.

If it’s just a little off, I can see the traditional method working as it’s not enough to make the arrow yaw, and instead it planes, due to the surface area of the blades up front.

Just a theory that makes sense in my pea brain.

Has anyone seen Randy Ulmer’s method of setting center shot? That’s what I do now. Start by ensuring there is little to no cam lean. Set up your bow press so that the bow hangs off the edge of the table or build a bench with an indentation at the middle of the bow so you can hang an arrow down off the string without it hitting the bench/table. Yes the factory spec center shot is a good place to start, but it’s imprecise. Instead, if you press the bow just enough to hold it in place, and let an arrow hang from the string like a plumb bob, it will fall into the natural center shot position. Then set the rest to where the arrow naturally rests without moving it. Of course you can’t have a nock that is too tight. It needs to hang and swing freely on the string to let gravity work. Anyway, when I first saw that method it was one of those “why didn’t I think of that” moments.

 

[Beendare]

Its worth mentioning;

Paper tuning with FP's gives a fairly big range of what tunes well. It could be your rest is slightly OVER ADJUSTED. Thus, you may have to move your rest a tiny bit in the opposite direction of what the tuning charts tell you to get it to tune BH's perfectly.

Two key factors;
1) Set it to factory specs
2) if you have to move it more than about 1/16".....something is out of whack

 

[BringBackThe80s]

Tuned broadhead did the job. Adult doe, 20 yds quartering away, 60 yd run. Now to make the 1.1 mile drag.

 

[doc holiday13]

........ Now to make the 1.1 mile drag.

Drag??? Ugh. That sounds horrible. You need a wheeled cart or not worry about getting bloody with that thing up on your shoulders

 

[HunterGatherer]

I’m NO expert and maybe I’m doing it wrong , but I quit paper tuning years ago- just seemed like a useless step when BH tuning will tell you everything you need to know. I start with walk back tuning, then go to broadhead tuning - out to 60yds. Groups start opening up enough at that distance and it’s hard to tell if you’re FP and BH groups are exactly the same POI so I just keep walking back with BH to 100yds to see if they start moving away from center. If the BH keep hitting POA to 100, I figure the bow is tuned as well as my shooting ability can show.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

So confused,you get it shooting bullet holes than change all that during BH tuning.Seems like a wasted step almost.
Some say move right you say move left if BH are right of FP.
Mine are 3 inches to the right.
Fp hits good out to 70-80

 

[CMF]

Glad you got your DXT tuned up. I had one for 13 years and never could get it perfect. It was always broadhead right at least a few inches at 60yds.
Maybe cause I was using the Easton's Guide, lol. But I think I did try both ways with the rest.

So confused,you get it shooting bullet holes than change all that during BH tuning.Seems like a wasted step almost.

I think to an extent it may be a wasted step, and I've heard/seen other guys skip it completely. I only paper tune at the archery shop when I get a new string.

 

[BigSky]

So if you're looking for the MOST accurate and best grouping, you'll need 3 spines. Dudley made a good video on this last year. He shot the same bow with 3 different spine arrows to show grouping

Are you able to either post a link or a video topic of this? If so, I would greatly appreciate it. Every arrow selection video I find on his sight does not come up with this scenario. I'm open to the fact I'm just missing it. I think it would be an interesting video. Thanks in advance.

 

[SDHNTR]

So confused,you get it shooting bullet holes than change all that during BH tuning.Seems like a wasted step almost.
Some say move right you say move left if BH are right of FP.
Mine are 3 inches to the right.
Fp hits good out to 70-80

Paper tuning just just a starting point. To me it’s easier to start there. And often times I don’t have to move rest at all from bullet hole.

 

[bmart2622]

So confused,you get it shooting bullet holes than change all that during BH tuning.Seems like a wasted step almost.
Some say move right you say move left if BH are right of FP.
Mine are 3 inches to the right.
Fp hits good out to 70-80

Think of it as fine tuning and not necessarily changing it all. If your bhs are consistently hitting 3" right of your fps then your bow is not tuned.