Broadhead Tuning Question

[Muley15]

Bareshaft tune your bow out to 20 yards first then Broadhead tune. Much easier

 

[MattB]

I've always chased the field point group with the rest to get BHs or bare shafts to group with them and have had great success with that strategy. If the BH's hit right of FP's, moving the rest to the left has virtually always brought them together (exceptions were usually vane contact-related) as the BH's are much more sensitive to adjustments than the FP's so the BH group shifts more. When the FP and BH groups coincide horizontally, I usually have a tune I am happy with.

It doesn't make intuitive sense to me that, if you are getting a nock left tear that you would move the rest toward the riser (RH shot). In my many years of shooting a bow, my experience says that would exacerbate the problem by increasing the distance that the rest centershot is off of the string's travel plane.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Bareshaft tune your bow out to 20 yards first then Broadhead tune. Much easier

I'm not fetching my own arrows yet so this part isn't gonna happen Haha.

I also kinda follow the idea of...I dont shoot them without fetching so why tune without fetching. It just makes more sense to my simple mind.

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[5MilesBack]

I've had bows where I had to move the rest toward the BH's, and I've had bows where I had to move the rest toward the FP's to get them together, and this was always tuning at 60 yards. So I don't subscribe to an absolute when it comes to direction. I'll try one way, and if that doesn't work I'll try the other. But I have NEVER found a bow that didn't BH tune at 60 yards moving it one way or the other.......they have all come together. And when they're dead on at 60, they're dead on at every distance I shoot.

However, just make sure you correct the vertical first, and then worry about the left and right. Don't ever make both adjustments at once, you'll be chasing your tail.

 

[wabowman]

No one has asked this yet and I'm surprised. What is the spine of the arrow and how much weight is in the FOC system you are using?

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[HonkeyMcGee88]

No one has asked this yet and I'm surprised. What is the spine of the arrow and how much weight is in the FOC system you are using?

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300 spine Rampage with the standard 51gr HIT insert, 125gr point, 4 fletch HEAT vanes, pin nocks with Beiter Hunters.

27.5in draw at 61lbs.

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[HonkeyMcGee88]

This crap really got me messed up Haha. I'm going to wait until I am home and have the help of my bowshop guy with me.

Today I started at 30. Saw the same high right deal(yesterday it was shooting good at 30).
Made a lot of adjustment to the rest to get the field point into the broadheads. Odd thing is the broadheads never seemed to move, just the field point impacts. Anyway finally got them looking good at 30 then checked 40 and all good. Go to 50 and back to high right.

Said **** it and set everything back to how I started, field points zeroed again. I'm starting to think it's me partially but at the same time it's hard to believe since every time its broadheads high right, field points centered.

Maybe I'm just not seeing something that a more experienced set of eyes will pick up on.

If i get a chance to hunt some hogs before then I'll just throw a deadmeat at them. That BMP tip flies right with my field points.

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[Sorry slinger]

Sounds like a form issue. Broadhead are not near as forgiving as fp

 

[jmav58]

In agreement on the form side of things. Poor form will lead to huge headaches with broadhead tuning. Also kills your confidence.

 

[87TT]

When I used to have the problem of high right it was me trying to peek around the bow to see the shot and throwing it right.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

To the guys who mentioned a form issue. I can definitely see that as sometimes it seems I can put them right in with the field points and sometimes can't.

What confuses me is how it always seems to be just about the same distance out at distances 20 yards apart from each other. I would think the flaw would magnify at distance?

I'll have to try to pay attention to the peeking thing. I can't ever tell I'm doing it....unless it's something I'm doing every single time unknowingly.

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[87TT]

Kind of like lifting your head off the stock when trap shooting. Just make sure you stay looking through the sights until after it hits. Part of the follow through. For me it was usually when I was trying to fix something or make a tight shot.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

Have you spin checked the arrows with broadheads? I chased my tail a few years ago I had a shop build me some arrows and couldn’t get them to BH tune one of three broadheads was good and the other two were off, And I couldn’t see this issue inside of 30 only 40+, I spin checked and the two had a slight wobble, swapped to different arrows and they were good. Not sure what they used but I ended up having 3 inserts pull so I sent them back and they built me another dozen.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

I have not spin checked them. I keep putting off ordering one of those spin checkers. Maybe I'll do that tonight.

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[MattB]

To spin check, put your arrows point down/fletchings pointing up on a hard surface and spin. So long as your BH's have a defined point (unlike some of the single bevel designs) you will probably get better results than with a spin tester - which I have but never use. You can really see any wobble in the BH or insert junction using this method.

 

[ontarget7]

In tuning there is not some bows that tune better with the rest moved one direction and other bows will be the opposite.

When looking at rest adjustments think about the path of the powerstroke. The tip weight will always want to get behind or in front of that path. So when your bareshaft or broadhead is hitting right it’s telling you your rest is left of the path of the powerstroke and why you would need to adjust it right.

Opposite will hold true for a tail right condition.

This does not change from bow to bow


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[Brendan]

In tuning there is not some bows that tune better with the rest moved one direction and other bows will be the opposite.

When looking at rest adjustments think about the path of the powerstroke. The tip weight will always want to get behind or in front of that path. So when your bareshaft or broadhead is hitting right it’s telling you your rest is left of the path of the powerstroke and why you would need to adjust it right.

Opposite will hold true for a tail right condition.

This does not change from bow to bow


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@ontarget7 - I know you've tuned a lot of bows, way more than most will in a lifetime. Have you ever had a left tear / right BH / right bareshaft correct by moving the rest left instead of right? (assuming no vane contact)

Or vice versa for right tear / left BH / left BS..?

 

[Btaylor]

How do you hold the bow? By chance do you keep your hand open through the draw and aim then grab the handle when the shot breaks?

 

[5MilesBack]

In tuning there is not some bows that tune better with the rest moved one direction and other bows will be the opposite.

If what you're saying was true, then moving the opposite direction would throw the powerstroke off even more than where it started, which would make it much worse......not better. So how could making an adjustment that changes the powerstroke for the worse........bring BH's and FP's together? Because from my own experience, it has.

 

[ontarget7]

@ontarget7 - I know you've tuned a lot of bows, way more than most will in a lifetime. Have you ever had a left tear / right BH / right bareshaft correct by moving the rest left instead of right? (assuming no vane contact)

Or vice versa for right tear / left BH / left BS..?

No

What usually happens is one is trying to compensate for the wrong particular grip stance for a given bow and tune. Then they shoot one distance, generally 40 yards or less. The broadhead and field points get within an inch or two and they call it good. Only to find out later they are gradually off more at other distances, say 50+.

It’s rather easy to get broadheads close at 40 and under but doesn’t necessarily mean the archer and said tune is on point.

The principal in regards to tip weight wanting to get in front of the powerstroke holds true regardless of the make and model of the bow.

I also feel, that wants you are truly picky with bareshafts flying true with fletched you will find no need to mess with broadhead tuning.

I have zero issues with broadheads, even out to 100 yards. Other than slightly more drag causing a touch low impact they fly identical with fieldpoints down range.


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