Broadhead Retuning

[IdahoHntr]

Have to respectfully disagree with Doug. We (Rokslide in general) get into this argument all the time here, but:

Gillingham / Gold Tip: Left Broadhead = Rest Left

John Dudley - Paper Tuning

Right Tear - Rest Left (1:35)
He says when that doesn't work - improper release, improper facial pressure, improper grip, etc.

The image Topo_trekker posted above is the Easton Tuning guide.

With that all said, never hurts to try, and when things get real far out of whack, you get fletching contact, lots of torque - all bets are off....

Also the goldtip chart you posted has a legend on the bottom that you will want to look at. The broadheads Gillingham is talking about are bare shaft broadheads, arrows without vanes. That's completely different than what we are talking about here.

 

[Billy Goat]

I can never remember which way to go. Seems to me I move broadheads to field points for left right. But I can make an adjustment the wrong way and correct it back the other before I can look anything up. Screwing it up is a better way to learn anyway.

Maybe I should print up a poster so I can just look at it.

 

[Topo_trekker]

Sounds like he already did the initial tune with bow and broadheads. As to why they would come out of tune is the question.

Really paper tuning broadheads is the only way to know if it’s because of spine. If it spine then moving rest opposite won’t work because field points will also move. If spine is fine, then yes moving the rest opposite will correct because of bh surface area which I assumed he already corrected for.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jmez]

Doesn't matter if they are fletched or not. If your BH is hitting left of FP, you have a tail right condition. You fix tail right by moving the rest to the left.

The Easton tuning guide says fix tail right by moving rest left. Same guide gives the fix for left BH to move test right. It contradicts itself.

Move your rest to the left.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[BigWoods]

Sounds like he already did the initial tune with bow and broadheads. As to why they would come out of tune is the question.

Really paper tuning broadheads is the only way to know if it’s because of spine. If it spine then moving rest opposite won’t work because field points will also move. If spine is fine, then yes moving the rest opposite will correct because of bh surface area which I assumed he already corrected for.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I did initially paper tune (clean holes from the get go) and follow that up with walk back tuning. Lastly I had gotten the broadheads tuned to field points.

 

[jmez]

Likely cable creep/stretch.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[madkaw284]

Also the goldtip chart you posted has a legend on the bottom that you will want to look at. The broadheads Gillingham is talking about are bare shaft broadheads, arrows without vanes. That's completely different than what we are talking about here.

You’re reading into incorrectly. It’s stating that if you have a right tear with a fletched shaft you will have a bareshaft that impacts to the left and so will your broadheads.
I hate this argument because there is so much misinformation out there I’m just gonna leave it at this, if your fix blades are impacting left of field points,
•bump your rest to the left
•add twists your right yoke(s)
•shim cams to the right


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[madkaw284]

Also the goldtip chart you posted has a legend on the bottom that you will want to look at. The broadheads Gillingham is talking about are bare shaft broadheads, arrows without vanes. That's completely different than what we are talking about here.

Also, please don’t ever shoot a bareshaft with a fixed blade!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IdahoHntr]

Also, please don’t ever shoot a bareshaft with a fixed blade!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree don’t do it, but that’s what the chart says! It has bare shafts and broadheads with bare shafts clearly listed separately. It specifically points out that they are bare shafts so I don’t get how you could read it any other way.

 

[madkaw284]

I agree don’t do it, but that’s what the chart says! It has bare shafts and broadheads with bare shafts clearly listed separately. It specifically points out that they are bare shafts so I don’t get how you could read it any other way.

Easy.
It says, “problem”. And then goes on to list each individual problem.
Problem 1 is a right tear
Problem 2 is bareshafts impacting left of field points
Problem 3 is broadheads impacting left of field points.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IdahoHntr]

Doesn't matter if they are fletched or not. If your BH is hitting left of FP, you have a tail right condition. You fix tail right by moving the rest to the left.

The Easton tuning guide says fix tail right by moving rest left. Same guide gives the fix for left BH to move test right. It contradicts itself.

Move your rest to the left.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

If you’ve done all the other tuning (good paper tear, bare shafts hitting with fletched) and your still having broadhead impact issues then the Easton guide for broadhead tuning is exactly correct. It works EVERY time. This is not for large rest movements whatsoever. At that point it should be a very small adjustment.

 

[IdahoHntr]

Easy.
It says, “problem”. And then goes on to list each individual problem.
Problem 1 is a right tear
Problem 2 is bareshafts impacting left of field points
Problem 3 is broadheads impacting left of field points.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You still haven’t even done what I said in my original post. Look at the legend down below. It says “bare shaft broadheads” meaning no fletching. I can’t help you if ya don’t want to read it.

 

[jmez]

Which tuning guide, right tear or BH left? It is the same thing and they give opposite fixes in the guide. I've always moved my rest left for a BH left and never had it not work when I used to tune with a rest.

 

[madkaw284]

You still haven’t even done what I said in my original post. Look at the legend down below. It says “bare shaft broadheads” meaning no fletching. I can’t help you if ya don’t want to read it.

“Well I’ll be”, I didn’t see that at the bottom. It does state broadhead w bareshaft. I hope they have revised that.

But don’t ever do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Brendan]

You still haven’t even done what I said in my original post. Look at the legend down below. It says “bare shaft broadheads” meaning no fletching. I can’t help you if ya don’t want to read it.

It doesn't matter if it's a bare shaft with broadhead, fletched with broadhead. Reaction is the same. If you're so sure it works the way you say, how about you prove it? Put your money where your mouth is. I have, and documented my results here. Happy to do it again later this month or next when I do my broadhead testing.

BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

If it comes off tail left or right it will maintain that position regardless of the ossicillation. The oscillation still occurs in the same plane, the arrow will maintain it's original direction. If it is | it osscilates the same as if it is / or \. The original direction doesn't change...

www.rokslide.com

Here's another more recent thread discussing this:

Broadhead Tuning Question

Need some advice from those with more experience on this. So from my understanding from everything I've read or watched, if my broadhead is hitting in one direction from my field points I move the rest in the opposite direction, correct? If broadheads hit right if fieldpoints, move rest left...

www.rokslide.com

Seriously, happy to continue this conversation by PM if anyone wants to, but these threads go down the toilet ArcheryTalk style every time they come up....

 

[5MilesBack]

Tightening cable guard for a righty does not do the opposite - it pulls the cam (more) to the right. Tighten cable guard, More tension on cables, cables pulled more to the right, more clearance for Vanes, but that tips the cams to the right.

Guessing you're getting it reversed because you're a southpaw...

When you say "tips the cams to the right" I assume you mean "moves the bottom of the cam to the right" towards the direction of the cable pull. Because on my lefty, when I tighten the cable guard more (cables on the left), it pulls the bottom of the cam to the left which tips the top of the cam more right.........which has the same effect as tightening the outside yoke (away from the cables).

 

[IdahoHntr]

It doesn't matter if it's a bare shaft with broadhead, fletched with broadhead. Reaction is the same. If you're so sure it works the way you say, how about you prove it? Put your money where your mouth is. I have, and documented my results here. Happy to do it again later this month or next when I do my broadhead testing.

BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

If it comes off tail left or right it will maintain that position regardless of the ossicillation. The oscillation still occurs in the same plane, the arrow will maintain it's original direction. If it is | it osscilates the same as if it is / or \. The original direction doesn't change...

www.rokslide.com

Here's another more recent thread discussing this:

Broadhead Tuning Question

Need some advice from those with more experience on this. So from my understanding from everything I've read or watched, if my broadhead is hitting in one direction from my field points I move the rest in the opposite direction, correct? If broadheads hit right if fieldpoints, move rest left...

www.rokslide.com

Seriously, happy to continue this conversation by PM if anyone wants to, but these threads go down the toilet ArcheryTalk style every time they come up....

I do it every year. I don’t need to do it to make you happy. If you watch the Dudley video I posted he clearly thinks the same I do. It’s worked for him, works for me, will work for anybody who does it.

Your the one who posted a chart who suggested shooting broadheads without fletchings, not me. How bout you “put your money where your mouth is” and show us the results. If fletchings don’t make a difference why do we even shoot bare shafts?? Or better yet, why do we shoot fletched shafts?

All I’m saying is a right paper tear or bare shaft left is different than broadheads hitting left at distance after you’ve already tuned the bow so that you are shooting bullet holes and bareshafts with fletchings. If you’ve already done those steps just a micro tune of the rest is needed. Follow the field tip.

I wasn’t trying to personally attack you or make a big deal out of this. If you get your bow to shoot well, then great, do what works for you. I was just showing that Dudley has an alternate approach and that the chart isn’t saying what people think it is. I’m glad you enjoy bow tuning and are as passionate about it as I am. Have fun with it and good luck preparing for fall.

 

[RosinBag]

I agree with IdahoHunter. There is a difference between bare shaft tuning and broadhead a just hitting left or right at distance. If all your tuning is done with paper and bare shaft, then your tune is really done. If broad heads don’t hit with your FP’s micro adjusting the rest to follow your FP’s works for me. But I am also a believer that the two won’t match up vertically at distance.

With that, let’s keep the the thread on track please or I will just lock it.

We can always agree to disagree with someone else’s opinion and be respectful in doing so.

 

[BigWoods]

I agree with IdahoHunter. There is a difference between bare shaft tuning and broadhead a just hitting left or right at distance. If all your tuning is done with paper and bare shaft, then your tune is really done. If broad heads don’t hit with your FP’s micro adjusting the rest to follow your FP’s works for me. But I am also a believer that the two won’t match up vertically at distance.

With that, let’s keep the the thread on track please or I will just lock it.

We can always agree to disagree with someone else’s opinion and be respectful in doing so.

I've definitely appreciated the experience and perspectives that people have presented. I'll try to report back next week once I'm able to trying working things out.

 

[BeaverHunter]

I agree with IdahoHunter. There is a difference between bare shaft tuning and broadhead a just hitting left or right at distance. If all your tuning is done with paper and bare shaft, then your tune is really done. If broad heads don’t hit with your FP’s micro adjusting the rest to follow your FP’s works for me. But I am also a believer that the two won’t match up vertically at distance.

With that, let’s keep the the thread on track please or I will just lock it.

We can always agree to disagree with someone else’s opinion and be respectful in doing so.

I didn't read anybody being being disrespectful and I thought that the posts were all on topic.