Broadhead of choice

[Miflatlander91]

If asking about the BH, shoots the same as field points, no significant drop out to 80 yds. Generally, I don't shoot groups so as not to damage shafts but, I shoot at a 6" dot at 80 and have no issues dropping them in there, or darn close, depending on how I am feeling that day.

Those are the same heads I shoot at the moment mine shoot great at 70 but at 80 I notice they open up a bit not awful and probably my shooting form shot a whitetail buck with one then the next weekend shot a doe with a 3 blade rage holes were close enough I quit shooting that specific mechanical


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rodney482]

I use VPA and Rage Trypan

 

[Sapcut]

Correct. Double footing. Short footing slides over the weak point.... whereadapter screws into insert.

 

[DEHusker]

QAD Exodus has been Rick solid for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same. Pile of animals and shoot with my field tips. They’re just brutally deadly. Nasty hole.

 

[MTbowhunter84]

Grim Reaper Hades Pro 125 for me. Refuse to use mechanicals a good cut on contact fixed blade is hard to beat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[eyeguy]

Yah if your fixed blades dont shoot as well as your field points check spine and tune. Covering up poor flight with a mechanical is not the way to go. If anything a mechanical needs better flight to perform well do to generally needing more energy to open and then usually to push a wider cut. So gotta make sure the arrow is no form a off axis on impact.
Plan to shoot vpa 150 solids or iron will 150's. Last year took a cow with 125 stinger buzzcuts. Good luck

 

[corey006]

I have killed 2 Elk and 1 Moose with Wasp Drone 100gr.

I just got done honing and stropping the blades.

Next year I might look into Bishops or I.W but I just cannot get over the cost.

 

[Beendare]

Wow, so many guys selecting BH's because they shoot with FP's....and not tuning. Bad strategy.

FP tuning is only the half way point. You have to shoot a fixed BH to see if it groups with your FP's to see whether you have perfect arrow flight or not.

When fixed heads won't group....the BH is telling you the arrow is coming out of your bow a little cockeyed.

Just screwing on a low profile head or Mech head doesn't solve your poor arrow flight problem and it doesn't help you diagnose; Spine issue, Form issue, minor adjustment, etc.

Its no wonder we hear stories of poor arrow penetration, poor performance....guys are shortcutting arrow tuning and having problems on animals. Personally, I think this 'not tuning' is giving mech heads a bad name.


.......

 

[justin davis]

Tough to beat Iron Will. Lifetime warranty and super sharp

 

[nowen22]

Gravedigger COC

 

[oake]

Shooting 125 Shuttle Ts currently, when I’ve passed through my inventory I’m moving on to Iron Wills

 

[3/4slam_26]

Have had great luck with dirtnap broadhead

 

[PAtwell]

Iron Will solid 125's here.

 

[Holocene]

QAD Exodus 125 grain for me. I shoot in a very popular 10-week broadhead league in Oregon and asked around over 3 years shooting the league, and a few reputable guys landed here so I went with them and have not been disappointed. Killed an elk last year on first day and looking forward to getting out in a few weeks to try again.

Kudos to everyone on this list who has emphasized the importance of proper tuning. I have been shooting 5 years and FINALLY have a bow that I believe is hot darn dialed. Meaning, it's tuned. Shot through paper. 3rd axis tuned on a Hooter Shooter. Arrows built with Archers Advantage as a starting place and checked against chrono. Walk back tuned with field points AND broadheads. I did some HIL tuning based on John Dudley's videos and articles about this technique.

The broadheads should fly with field points and really, really close. Check it all and you can get there.

PS, Your tune can change throughout the season. This is an unfortunate truth. One tip is to check back in with a paper tune or french tune or chrono or SOMETHING to make sure that the bow is still performing like it did when you made your "final" tune. We'd like to think these fine modern bows are "set it and forget it" but they are quite dynamic I keep learning.

The old tip "ah, just move your sight to compensate" is not the best strategy as several have already pointed out. Your arrow ain't flying as true as it could until you are grouping tight with FPs and BHs. Just my $.02.

Shoot straight and have a great season folks!

Brandon

 

[Stubborn_bowhunter]

Slick trick standards are my go to. Would probably go ironwills for a oil tag.

 

[jpitt777]

BRO has been doing some broadhead tests.... check it out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sargent]

Absolutely. I ran the charts for spine selection on my arrows. I’m gonna have to give it another shot. What’s the prevailing opinion on montecs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a solid and effective head. I've shot a bunch of whitetails and one elk with them. They don't leave a blood trail like a big expandable, but will get the job done if you shoot well.

 

[MTguy0341]

Kudu Points for myself this year. Shot the black hornet magnus last year. So far I'm pleased with the kudu points and their flights

 

[montanafisherman25]

I have been using the NAP Killzone for a while now. Love them on deer and last year it did a number on my bull at 35 yrds, was a little far back and didn’t get a full pass through but good blood trail the whole way and held together through ribs. Got the job done, it’s like someone hit them with a hatchet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[montanafisherman25]

Forgot to mention, my buddy shot a cow at I believe 20 yrds with a hypodermic and it sprayed blood over every tree she ran by and didn’t go very far at all.

100 gr for both of us. I would like to try some fixed blade but hard to leave what has been working


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk