Break for Fieldcraft???

[Wildwillalaska]

Planned to use 21” 7-08 Fieldcraft I picked up to play with for the youngest daughter, but more I thought about it, should have gotten a threaded one for her purposes. Since they did the run of 22” cerecoated 6.5’s, have decid3d to pick one up with intent of making it her primary hunting stick. I want to put a break on it for her to play with initially, and will likely suppress it later for field use.

Anyone use a break on their Fieldcraft, and if so, what model did you go with and why? Leaning towards a Vias since when time for suppressor planned to do a direct mount, but at the same time the TB little mount looks like it could work well for our break purposes for now and mount later. Just never used one of their breaks, so no idea how much recoil it will cut.

Daughter is still pretty young, turning 8 this fall, so want to reduce recoil as much as possible for now. Anyway, any input greatly appreciated. In exchange, someday down the road I’ll share photos of a basterdized Fieldcraft with shortened stock and likely horrid pink unicorn themed paint job.

 

[USMC-40]

I had Jeff Hayes at Rivers Bend put a Vias on my .270. Glad I did it.

 

[khuber84]

Mbm mini beast........his brakes are great.

 

[GAF]

I am looking at doing the same on a Fieldcraft 22".

 

[longbarrel]

A light rifle exaggerates recoil, and a brake makes it very loud (be sure to use the best hearing protection). I suggest starting out with a heavier rifle, and possibly a lighter caliber, maybe the Rem 260 which is still capable while using lighter stuff than the 7mm. For example, a .260 weighing 8.5-9 lb and using 120 gr. bullets will recoil only 10 ft-lb. You can add removable weight if you want.

 

[brsnow]

Where they able to thread the barrel or did it need to be cut based on how thin it is at the end?

 

[brsnow]

A light rifle exaggerates recoil, and a brake makes it very loud (be sure to use the best hearing protection). I suggest starting out with a heavier rifle, and possibly a lighter caliber, maybe the Rem 260 which is still capable while using lighter stuff than the 7mm. For example, a .260 weighing 8.5-9 lb and using 120 gr. bullets will recoil only 10 ft-lb. You can add removable weight if you want.

I have 2 kimbers with factory brakes, .280 AI and 7mm-08. I have not noticed an increase in sound. I was really concerned about it. They are certainly quieter than .30 caliber magnums that don’t have breaks. After shooting next to a couple at the range this week. Those magnums make you jump when they go off.

The brakes on a light rifle really help with spotting your hit and seem to tighten groups.

 

[GAF]

A brake that does not blow dust and particles everywhere when shot from prone is what I am looking for. Would also like to install it myself.

 

[Lawnboi]

If your willing to deal with the concussion and noise of a brake go with a side port. Radials pepper you and everyone around with whatever your shooting over. My first radial brake experience on the dirt was over some granite, went home that day and picked up a side baffle brake.

That’s a thin barrel. See what you can get it threaded for and pick a brake that you want, lots of options wether you want self timing or not. You don’t need a big slab brake, something like an APA micro bastard won’t look like a block of steel hanging off the barrel, but will still really cut recoil.

You will likely not be able to get that gun threaded for the common suppressor thread of 5/8x24. So keep that in mind when threading and shopping for a suppressor. I know I’ll need to bush up a couple skinny barreled guns once I get my tax stamp if I want to run a suppressor