bow tuning issues- is my grip that screwed?

stan_wa

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Aug 6, 2020
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Washington
im seeking some assistance with a perplexing issue I've encountered with my two right-handed bows: a Bowtech Prodigy and a Bowtech Revolt X 80. Both bows are shooting a 250 spline 29.5" arrow with 185 grains up front and various vane configurations.

The Prodigy features a binary cam with split yokes, while the Revolt has the Worm Drive Deadlock system. I've meticulously timed both bows and adjusted cam lean to the best of my abilities.

Here's the problem: when shooting the Prodigy, I've noticed it's not as accurate as the Revolt. After release, there's more noticeable shaking from left to right, resulting in larger groupings horizontally compared to vertically, almost double the size.

In an attempt to troubleshoot, I conducted a paper tune on the Prodigy. After sending six shots through the paper, all resulted in a slight nock right tear. I adjusted the rest leftward, but the tear persisted, leading me to move it further left, eventually reaching two hash marks (using a Hamskea Epsilon rest) out from center shot. Desperate for a solution, I even tried moving the rest right by a whole hash mark, but the tear persisted.

Thinking the arrows might be too stiff due to being spined for the 80lb bow, I added a 50 grain insert, but the nock right tear remained. I then experimented by removing the stabilizer and quiver, yet the tear persisted.

Frustrated, I suspected I might be twisting the bow upon release. When I intentionally twisted the bow to the left( arrow pointing more left), I achieved a bullet hole tear. However, the amount of twist required could only be replicated by deliberately pulling with my fingers, causing the sight to noticeably move compared to a neutral grip.

This confusion deepened when I realized the Revolt, despite its different grip design, also exhibits a nock right tear. I find it hard to believe that I'm exerting such significant front hand torque, especially since I couldn't reproduce enough torque to cause a bullet hole without consciously gripping with my fingers.

During target practice at 20 yards using a yellow jacket target with 1", 2", and 3" rings, I rarely hit outside the 3" ring, with maybe 1 out of 10 arrows deviating more than 1.5" from the point of impact. At 80 yards, out of 50 arrows shot, only 2 were more than 8" from the center.

I'm perplexed by these inconsistencies and would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions you might have to improve the accuracy and consistency of my shots with both bows.

Thank you for your help!"
 
Joined
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Try increasing your draw length by a half inch and see what happens.

Also, don't get obsessed with achieving a perfect bullet hole through paper. Get it close through paper then move on to bareshaft and/or broadhead tuning.
 
OP
stan_wa

stan_wa

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Try increasing your draw length by a half inch and see what happens.

Also, don't get obsessed with achieving a perfect bullet hole through paper. Get it close through paper then move on to bareshaft and/or broadhead tuning.
When I broadhead tune do you move the rest till the group together or just move gang adjust the sort housing
 
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When I broadhead tune do you move the rest till the group together or just move gang adjust the sort housing
The goal of broadhead tuning is to get broadheads and field points hitting the same spot. The same types of adjustments are used to broadhead tune as are used to paper tune and bareshaft tune. Below are some handy reference charts showing how to adjust various parts of your bow to correct the conditions you might encounter while tuning. Not all of the listed adjustment techniques will apply to your particular bow.
Screenshot_20210219-073524.pngScreenshot_20210219-073736.png
 

fatlander

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Feb 11, 2016
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The ODB cam is one of the easiest systems ever created to tune. Twist your right yoke legs 1/2 twist at a time until the tear is gone.


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Zac

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Dec 1, 2018
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You have the Deadlock, why on earth are you not using it. I get so confused when people only move their rest and think that’s the end of the road.
 

fatlander

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You have the Deadlock, why on earth are you not using it. I get so confused when people only move their rest and think that’s the end of the road.

The prodigy is what he’s having issues with, not the revolt.


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5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Feb 27, 2012
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Colorado Springs
"This confusion deepened when I realized the Revolt, despite its different grip design, also exhibits a nock right tear."

Appears that both bows have nock right tears. But the Revolt and a yoke bow should be easy enough to tune that out.
 

Zac

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The prodigy is what he’s having issues with, not the revolt.


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Tuning is tuning. Twist a yoke, move a shim, Deadlock, whatever. How is this not common knowledge, especially with the resources available.
 

fatlander

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Feb 11, 2016
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Tuning is tuning. Twist a yoke, move a shim, Deadlock, whatever. How is this not common knowledge, especially with the resources available.

Because the internet is full of self absorbed expert selling products and their likeness instead of just giving the knowledge that’s needed.

Tuning bows is really easy. The two bows the op has mentioned are without a doubt the two easiest cam systems ever created to tune. Teaching someone to tune their own bows doesn’t sell merch.


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OP
stan_wa

stan_wa

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You have the Deadlock, why on earth are you not using it. I get so confused when people only move their rest and think that’s the end of the road.
I tired moving the deadlock in the revolt and didn’t see much affect, that said the upper lead lock lock bolt seized up and stripped the drive so getting that repaired and haven’t spent much time with it because of that.
 

Zac

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I tired moving the deadlock in the revolt and didn’t see much affect, that said the upper lead lock lock bolt seized up and stripped the drive so getting that repaired and haven’t spent much time with it because of that.
Yeah same exact thing happened to me on my SS34.
 

Tilzbow

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Dec 25, 2012
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Reno, NV
At 80# draw. 29.5” long and 185 grains up front, your arrows could be marginally under spined. Try removing weight from the front end see what happens. Yeah, I know right rear is classic weak but arrows shot off of drop away rests don’t always behave like they did on the old style side pressure rests tuning charts were based on.
 
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