Bow Tuning Issue - Help Appreciated

[BKhunter]

Hey All,

I am running into a bow tuning issue. I am shooting a Prime Centergy @ 70# w/ a 27 3/4 inch draw. I bought black eagle deep impact arrows @ 300 spine and cut them to 28 inches and added the FOCUS system up front w/ AAE Hunter Max vanes (3 flectch w/ 4 inch wraps). I'm getting a nock right tear and even after playing with the rest I can't get it to go away and if I move it anymore I believe it will be way off center. The arrow weighs in at 513 w/ 100 grain tips and I swapped it to a 125 to see if I could weaken the arrow slightly to fix the tear which didn't help. I even borrowed a 250 grain head which still did nothing. I have used Archers Advantage and PinWheel which tell me I am slightly stiff but looking at their recommendations in the list it says I should have been shooting 250 spine. Everyone I spoke with at the range things the arrow is just to stiff but even adding the 250 grain head and nothing improved had us all scratching our heads. The bow was in the vice and everything is level and inline. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

BK

 

[fatlander]

It may be your grip.

You might have to swap your top and bottom limbs.

You may need to adjust the roller guard.

It might be a combination of the 3.

Have you tried shooting the bow through paper at different distances? And have you tried shooting bareshafts at different distances? You may be too close to the paper and the arrow hasn’t recovered yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

Grip is huge. This last week I noticed that my BH's started drifting right at 60 yards, so I shot a bare shaft at 40 yards and it hit 6" right of my fletched arrow and had a 2" nock left. Just a very minor grip change and then it was hitting with my fletched arrow and perfectly parallel. Went back to BH's and they were good as well. It's easy to get lazy with your grip if you're not careful.

 

[BKhunter]

I agree with the above and it could be grip but others shot the bow and had similar issues. The suggestion above regarding the roller gaurd has me thinking as I believe I remember hearing Prime's can be adjust using the flex gaurd and if that takes away the right to left I may be good. Right now it is all the way cranked down, does anyone know if I loosen this if it will help?

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't know primes at all. I think you set centershot and tune with the flex guard.

@Brendan I think knows them.

 

[Brendan]

Some Primes have centershot and tuning issues. Centergy Hybrid and Logic CT5 for me both wanted to tune with the rest way left / outside of 1" centershot. The issue is - no yokes, and almost no room to shim the cams. You can crank the flex guard all the way in, but that didn't solve it for me.

I resorted to taking the bows (both of them) apart and swapping limbs to see if that helped (it did a little), and swapping spacers on each side of the cams after measuring them to shim as much as possible, then just put the rest wherever it fell. You could also try shimming the limb pocket which is a pain.

At the end of the day - make whatever adjustments you can, then set the rest wherever it tunes. Bows both shot great, just bugged the hell of me the way it tuned.

 

[BKhunter]

Some Primes have centershot and tuning issues. Centergy Hybrid and Logic CT5 for me both wanted to tune with the rest way left / outside of 1" centershot. The issue is - no yokes, and almost no room to shim the cams. You can crank the flex guard all the way in, but that didn't solve it for me.

I resorted to taking the bows (both of them) apart and swapping limbs to see if that helped (it did a little), and swapping spacers on each side of the cams after measuring them to shim as much as possible, then just put the rest wherever it fell. You could also try shimming the limb pocket which is a pain.

At the end of the day - make whatever adjustments you can, then set the rest wherever it tunes. Bows both shot great, just bugged the hell of me the way it tuned.

This is helpful, I may try playing with the flex gaurd and see what that does and if doesn't I will reset it. I guess if I can get my broad heads to hit the same spot then it's fine. I didn't want to start that process until I got it to tune but based on what you experienced this seems like it could be common.

 

[tim tarras]

Grip is huge. This last week I noticed that my BH's started drifting right at 60 yards, so I shot a bare shaft at 40 yards and it hit 6" right of my fletched arrow and had a 2" nock left. Just a very minor grip change and then it was hitting with my fletched arrow and perfectly parallel. Went back to BH's and they were good as well. It's easy to get lazy with your grip if you're not careful.

I have a CT3 and Grip is huge! I have spent the last 2 weeks working on it to get consistent. I watched this video from @ontarget7. I had to modify it to 3 fingers on the grip instead of 2.

Are you using the same arrow for testing? If so, spin it to make sure it isn't the issue. Don't ask how I know.

Here is a pick of one of my 60yd groups, WHEN I have the right grip.

 

[BKhunter]

I have a CT3 and Grip is huge! I have spent the last 2 weeks working on it to get consistent. I watched this video from @ontarget7. I had to modify it to 3 fingers on the grip instead of 2.

Are you using the same arrow for testing? If so, spin it to make sure it isn't the issue. Don't ask how I know.

Here is a pick of one of my 60yd groups, WHEN I have the right grip.


View attachment 209528

Yes I was using the same arrow, but I get your point. Man this is frustrating.

 

[Piscatory_4]

I was just having issues with tuning my pse vendetta, to get a decent shot through paper the rest was1/4" left of centershot. Tried all kinds of adjustments. Oddly it was shooting pretty good then I wanted to take the clamp for the rest off the cable and insert the rest cord through the cable and tie in. Then it all went to hell, broadheads shooting high left from FP. After many changes and paper tuning and thinking I had it correct I noticed an E-clip was missing from the split buss cable end. Went to hardware store and got some E-clips. Redid the center serving and nock points, D-loop, moved the rest back to center and shot a couple arrows and they flew good. Tried BH at 20 followed by FP and they were 1" apart in the 2.5" spot. Repeated with same result and tried at 30 yds and same result. Even tried a different BH and it hit the same. Put rest cord clamp back on the cable too right before the E-clip install. Don't overlook a small missing part somewhere.

 

[Brendan]

This is helpful, I may try playing with the flex gaurd and see what that does and if doesn't I will reset it. I guess if I can get my broad heads to hit the same spot then it's fine. I didn't want to start that process until I got it to tune but based on what you experienced this seems like it could be common.

This is a known issue with Primes for many people. I have what I would call a fairly "textbook" grip that works with every other bow I've tried, so refused to start monkeying around with my grip to get it to work.

I personally would move the rest as far as it needed to go to get broadheads and FP hitting the same if that's what it came to. Mine shot great with the rest outside an inch when I had it there. With that said, I'd get rid of any bow I couldn't get them hitting the same.

 

[sf jakey]

I sold my CT 3 for these reasons. Bought a VXR and never looked back.