Bow help, please. Fletching contact problem.

[Desk Jockey]

So I am shooting a 2015 HOYT Carbon spyder turbo. 30.5 inch draw at 65 lbs. QAD / HOYT rest. I am only a year into archery so not the most savy guy when it comes to bow tech and many, many other things but I am not a complete mechanical dunce.

I had the bow restrung, which led to the bow shop cracking a smallish sliver off the lower limb, which led to a new set of limbs. I finally got it back after 6 weeks and after two shooting sessions My groups have really opened up and I am getting flyers high and left. Bad enough that I am having trouble zeroing the bow. I look at my fletchings and I am seeing evidence of contact with the rest. Sure enough the felt on the right side of the rest is nearly torn off and I can see where the finish on the fork is coming off.

I took it back to the shop. They replaced the felts and looked at the rest. Checked that the nocks on my arrows were aligned right. Told me to shoot it and bring it back if it was still giving me issues.

I took it out to the range a couple of times. Same thing. Bigger groups. Flyers to the left. I look at the new felt and see contact marks on the right side. I also notice the rest is cracked at the bottom of the lifter on the right side near the attachment screws.

I took it back to the shop and left it there for a few days. I asked them to get it working right and even said to put a new rest on it if needed. I went to pick it up today. guy says I am torquing my grip because the arrows are only contacting on the right side. They hadn't touched the bow. Same rest with the crack. Same felt. No tweaks or changes.

So...

Either I developed some bad habits in the 8 weeks it has taken to get my bow strung or...

Something is not right. I am going to start by losening the string that connects the rest to the strung and see if that helps. If that doesn't work then i am going to find a different shop and get a second opinion.

I will say that my bow shop has lost some of their better bow techs in the last year and customer satisfaction and quality control seem to have slipped. My buddy also had his bow strung around the same time. He got it back and the bow was shooting terribly. He brought it back and the cam timing was visibly off. They fixed it and he is now shooting the lights out.

So please shower me with your wisdom oh mighty interneters. Any DIY tweaks or perspectives are welcome. If I can't sort it myself by next Saturday I am going for that second opinion at another shop.

 

[Desk Jockey]

View attachment 40412

Rest

 

[Desk Jockey]

View attachment 40413

Rsier/lifter fork

 

[Desk Jockey]

View attachment 40414

Fletchings

 

[ofl0926]

That shop probably did a crappy job tuning that bow. Timing is key for everything to run smooth. Timing will throw everything off. The cams need to by synced and the rest needs to be tuned as well. With them restringing the bow and not shooting right, something is not right. Also, if there is a crack in the rest, get it replaced.
Go to another bow shop and get it checked out. Also contact the rest manufacturer to get a replacement


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[theleo91386]

I cant see the photos for some reason but I'd bet money they didn't time the rest correctly when they restrung your bow. Even if the timing of the cams were off you shouldn't have a problem like this. To be fair to the tech, rest timing on speed bows can be a pain, that's the main reason I went to limb driven rests. Another question, is the launcher arm against the shelf of the bow when it's down? If so, that's what's likely causing it to crack by the attachment screws..

 

[Desk Jockey]

I cant see the photos for some reason but I'd bet money they didn't time the rest correctly when they restrung your bow. Even if the timing of the cams were off you shouldn't have a problem like this. To be fair to the tech, rest timing on speed bows can be a pain, that's the main reason I went to limb driven rests. Another question, is the launcher arm against the shelf of the bow when it's down? If so, that's what's likely causing it to crack by the attachment screws..

Launcher arm is against the shelf when down and the adjustment screw is bottomed out meaning the rest couldn't be any lower.

Please school me on limb driven rests. This is my only bow and rest so I am open to ideas.

On other fronts, I think I have found another shop that will tune it. I also used a sharpie and some masking tape to figure out that I am getting contact on the containment or top bar as well.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Launcher arm is against the shelf when down and the adjustment screw is bottomed out meaning the rest couldn't be any lower.

Please school me on limb driven rests. This is my only bow and rest so I am open to ideas.

On other fronts, I think I have found another shop that will tune it. I also used a sharpie and some masking tape to figure out that I am getting contact on the containment or top bar as well. I am getting frustrated enough that I am thinking about ditching the bow and using a spear but I am concerned my sponsors may dump me. . (Too soon?)l.

 

[mallacootasmoothie]

Find another shop, QAD's are fool proof and very easy to set up. It sounds like the rest is timed wrong.
Also shoot a bare shaft to see if the rest actually drops, with a fletched arrow you may think it's dropping but it's actually the vanes knocking it down, this would cause the crack your talking about.

 

[theleo91386]

There should be a little gap between the launcher arm and the shelf. If there's not broken arms will be a recurring problem.

Limb driven rests rely on the limbs or down moving cable to drive the rest into the down position. The internal spring is used to raise the launcher arm up as you draw, compressing the limbs, taking tension off of the cord ran to the limbs or the down moving cable, allows the launcher to lift the arrow. When you release your arrow the rest gets driven down as the limbs return to the positions they are at when they are at their normal/non compressed positions and tension is back on the cord. Guys that like QAD's generally don't like a limb driven rest because you can't walk around with them locked in the up position. It's not a big deal to me because I'm generally not moving around the woods with a knocked arrow. QAD's are a good rest, I've just always had varying luck with them on speed bows.

 

[5MilesBack]

Grip torque or not.......if the fletchings are hitting the prongs, the rest isn't timed correctly.......period.

You may very well have other issues going on as well like grip torque or bow itself out of time, etc., but the rest timing should be verified/adjusted every time you make a change to the bow.

 

[Bearlodge10]

Desk Jockey,
Short response: I think that the QAD gets a little old and slow with age. Couple that with strings that get stretched and things just aren't as snappy. ( I know sounds like a Viagra commercial) I also think that there is a little contact but with the felt you don't see it until the felt wears off and then your fletchings are making contact with the launcher arm, thus the visual confirmation on the vanes.
Long Response:
I had a similar problem with an older bow (Hoyt Trykon XL) and a QAD. I had been seeing some contact on my fletchings but my groups seemed to be pretty reasonable. The only thing was that at a few of the shots, I felt like the point of impact should have been better. Meaning I wasn't hitting where I was aiming and the shot felt really good. After making some adjustments and not seeing the changes I wanted to, I took it into the pro shop. We put it through paper and shot some with foot powder to see the contact. It just seemed like the the rest wasn't dropping fast enough. After tightening the rest cable and doing some other adjustments to the bow and rest (tuning) it seemed to be better. However, it had me wondering if I should change rests. I shot it until my new bow came in and my groups were better with fewer of those questionable shots. When the time came to select a new rest, I went with the QAD again. So far I am happy with it and appreciate the familiarity the rest has on my new set-up.
My advice would be to get some help and tune the bow and rest. Even try a new QAD or similar rest ( Ripcord Ace) etc. and see if things don't improve.

 

[jmez]

For a simple start, put the rest in the up position and nock an arrow. Hold the bow level and see if the nock is level, high or low. Then measure from the riser/shelf, not the shelf pad, to the center of the arrow and post that measurement. It should be close to 13/16.

I shoot the same bow, mine tunes nock level with center of arrow at 13/16.

You also need to find a new shop.

 

[Desk Jockey]

So or those that are following along with the bouncing ball. I took my bow to shop #2. They quickly figured out the lower cam is leaning by 3/4". They also pointed out that shop #1 put 34 inch limbs on my turbo riser. The owner is a solid guy and is going to try and sort me out. Hoping to get it back in a week.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Still waiting on bow.

Shims in lower cam were backwards which had marred the bearings. Shop #2 replaced both which appears to have fixed a lot but it was still giving a knock down tear and they could not get the QAD timed as well as they wanted. They have swapped to a vapor trail limb driven release and say it is shooting bullets.

I am going to pick it up this weekend and hoping for great things.

 

[Frogfan]

I had the exact problem with a Nitrum Turbo, even after Shane at OnTarget7 tuned the bow. My local shop replaced the QAD as a test when they could not find a solution. Problem solved.

I understand your frustration. I hope the new rest has solved your problem.

 

[Desk Jockey]

So I picked up the bow today. First shot at 20 yards felt great. It hit a little to the left. Second shot was a robinhood straight down the shaft. That HOYT never shot this good.

If you are ever in southeast NY and need a bow shop go to the flying arrow in Carmel NY. They are worth the drive and fantastic guys.

Now to practice like hell for a week. Look out deer, desk jockey rides again!

 

[Desk Jockey]

View attachment 40804

 

[ontarget7]

Still waiting on bow.

Shims in lower cam were backwards which had marred the bearings. Shop #2 replaced both which appears to have fixed a lot but it was still giving a knock down tear and they could not get the QAD timed as well as they wanted. They have swapped to a vapor trail limb driven release and say it is shooting bullets.

I am going to pick it up this weekend and hoping for great things.

How can shims mar the bearings ? These are sealed bearings and it would not matter what way the shims were configured.

Nice to see it's shooting well for you !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk