Bow Hand Grip Torque

Take a quick peek at you top cam. If it's leaning more than what it was set for then you're more than likely torquing the bow.
 
Take a quick peek at you top cam. If it's leaning more than what it was set for then you're more than likely torquing the bow.

Hit the nail on the head. But... it is very hard fir someone to hold their bow back and examine the cam. But the MOST important thing... even pros torque there bows. It you do it the same every time! Consistancy is accuracy
 
Shoot several arrows through paper and see what the tears look like. If they are different very good indicator that you are torquing the bow. If they are all pretty much the same then they don't tell you as much. You may still have hand torque, you just do it the same every time. This is where I was a couple years ago until I got some shooting lessons/help.

I would add, if they are all the same yet you can't get a bullet hole then it is likely grip torque.
 
Once I have some time I'll test it out. As it stands I had to turn my bow down two cranks to BH tune it. I will remove the side grips for comparison.
 
How does one know for certain that they are or are not torqueing the bow at full draw?

To be honest, the only way to be sure you have perfect grip is shooting bareshafts. When you shoot a bareshaft at 20 yards with your fletched it will tell you a lot about your tune as well as your grip. I always start the day off with a bareshaft and fletched arrow. When you get this down, then apply it on a regular bases you will find the most forgiveness out of your set up.
 
To be honest, the only way to be sure you have perfect grip is shooting bareshafts. When you shoot a bareshaft at 20 yards with your fletched it will tell you a lot about your tune as well as your grip. I always start the day off with a bareshaft and fletched arrow. When you get this down, then apply it on a regular bases you will find the most forgiveness out of your set up.

Thanks. How much discernable affect does going from sideplates to nothing on the grip? I have plates on currently.
 
Thanks. How much discernable affect does going from sideplates to nothing on the grip? I have plates on currently.

It can cause some slight adjustment. Grip is a very touchy thing and IMO you cannot find that sweet spot by just looking to see if your cam is straight. It is a balance of knowing your equipment, the tune that it requires and along with that the right grip, as well as the right amount of applied pressure.

I use the Pro Fit wood grip myself and find it extremely comfortable, along with it being very repeatable.
 
It can cause some slight adjustment. Grip is a very touchy thing and IMO you cannot find that sweet spot by just looking to see if your cam is straight. It is a balance of knowing your equipment, the tune that it requires and along with that the right grip, as well as the right amount of applied pressure.

I use the Pro Fit wood grip myself and find it extremely comfortable, along with it being very repeatable.


I should clarify, I am referring to gaining the most forgiveness out of a given setup.
 
What if you don't grip the bow? I shoot with my bow hand in a fist, with just the thumb and forefinger extended on each side of the riser and just let the bow fall away onto the wrist strap. Is it possible to torque the bow this way?
 
What if you don't grip the bow? I shoot with my bow hand in a fist, with just the thumb and forefinger extended on each side of the riser and just let the bow fall away onto the wrist strap. Is it possible to torque the bow this way?

Set up your shot and pull the bow back. Then rotate your wrist slightly left and right while watching your bow. You will see why I asked.
 
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Critique my grip. A national champ taught me this. Selfie pictures so it looks like a death grip. I use a paracord sling and am completely relaxed. The sling is low profile in case I don't have time to use it so it is out of the way.
 
I love Hoyts, but their grips and my hand are often at odds. Side plates and just shooting off the riser, while better, weren't great for me.Shrewd grips probably work the best for my grip.Definitely figure out torque issues before trying to torque tune using an overdrawn rest.One just compliments the other, won't fix it.
 
Now with this last pic don't make any adjustments just yet. Is this at 20 yards ?

That is correct. I was in a huge rip this morning and only had about 15 minutes to do all of this. The second to the last picture is wrong. I impacted with some other holes and it was hard to see what happened. The wrong picture is point blank after the last move. I don't have a picture of the tear through paper at the target while shooting from 20 yards. The arrow that has no fletching was depicted correctly in the target even though it is a bag target. Also, I had a Smackdown Pro on previously and my broadhead tune told me that I needed to have a stiffer shaft. I run a 29.5/70 Spyder Turbo and 28.5" ctc 100 grain Axis 300s.
 
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I bought this little gaget from amazon..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025Q9PTE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It shows quickly how your hand movement torques the bow easily...

I was going to use it to until I found a repeatable torque free grip then take it off....

I can shoot well and if I torque the bow I do it very consistently. This thing looks cool but it seems like it references wherever you view it. It doesn't seem like you could absolutely calibrate it for the desired effect.
 
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