Bow Hand Grip Torque

[Brandon Pattison]

20 yds bare shaft. I made a few adjustments on the yoke and brought the timing back. My 70# bow only peaks at 68#. What's up with that? It sounds like it is 4# under the normal peak. I took the side plates off and tried a bunch of different ways to grip the bow. I ended up getting way better groups with the side plates on. My hand just seemed to index better. Hoyt's hunting bows need a target bow grip under the wood grip. Why is the bare shaft all crooked?

 

[ontarget7]

The 68# peak weight can be adjusted by twisting up the cables. That is not a problem and can be fixed. The rest of the tuning just keep shooting me text when you have it ready at the settings I sent you.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

The 68# peak weight can be adjusted by twisting up the cables. That is not a problem and can be fixed. The rest of the tuning just keep shooting me text when you have it ready at the settings I sent you.

Does shortening up the cables shorten up the draw length?

 

[ontarget7]

Does shortening up the cables shorten up the draw length?

Twisting cables will increase draw length

 

[ontarget7]

It's a balance you want to get your peak poundage slightly over 71# and then twist up your string to get you back to your measured draw length. This will drop peak poundage slightly but keep your draw length where you want it.
By those pics you sent me you do need new strings

 

[amp713]

sub'd

 

[Brandon Pattison]

ontarget7 http://www.rokslide.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13561

Shane walked me through yoke/bare shaft tuning with nothing but text messages. Listen and trust him. He is spot on.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

We went from this

To this

To this in the end at 20 yards

 

[Brandon Pattison]

He asked me to torque the grip intentionally left and right while coaching me on adjustments. This went on over the course of about 4 days. It was hard for me since I don't have a bowpress and shooting after my family is sleeping made things drag on. He never missed a beat and promptly responded to my 958 questions. If you want to super tune your bow yourself, enlist his advice or send him some work. The beauty of doing it yourself has several reasons. A few are gaining knowledge for future reference, being a bowhunting asset to your buddies and the grand daddy, finding the yoke sweet spot for your consistent grip. A pro at a shop doesn't shoot like you do. Do what he says and you will not regret it.

 

[ontarget7]

He asked me to torque the grip intentionally left and right while coaching me on adjustments. This went on over the course of about 4 days. It was hard for me since I don't have a bowpress and shooting after my family is sleeping made things drag on. He never missed a beat and promptly responded to my 958 questions. If you want to super tune your bow yourself, enlist his advice or send him some work. The beauty of doing it yourself has several reasons. A few are gaining knowledge for future reference, being a bowhunting asset to your buddies and the grand daddy, finding the yoke sweet spot for your consistent grip. A pro at a shop doesn't shoot like you do. Do what he says and you will not regret it.

Let me expand on this a little.

I wouldn't consider this torquing the bow, to what we might be used to, or in our comfort zone maybe. What you are really doing is finding the sweet spot for the bow. Most have the view that is an old school believe that you tune to the shooter. I feel we are doing no body good tuning in this fashion.

I have tried this to no end and I cannot get bareshafts to fly with fieldpoints when the archer is not doing his part, regardless how much fine tuning and adjusting you do. Sure you can get it to impact the same point within reason but you will always be tail right or left, entry will never be striaght and true like the fletched arrows. The last piece to the puzzle is the grip, of coarse after everything else is in tune.

The purpose of me having him take his grip from one extreme to the other was so he could physically see the difference at impact with bareshafts. Now grant it, it takes lots of trial and error to know how and what adjustments to make, from a tuning standpoint , as well as grip.

Congrats for the hard work and willingness to want to learn

Shane

 

[OR Archer]

Ill add that you also need to be aware of how much pressure you are putting on the riser with your front fingers as well. I see guys all the time who have a good front hand position but negate that with way to much finger pressure. So keep that in mind as well when working on your grip.

 

[ontarget7]

Ill add that you also need to be aware of how much pressure you are putting on the riser with your front fingers as well. I see guys all the time who have a good front hand position but negate that with way to much finger pressure. So keep that in mind as well when working on your grip.

I never would suggest any finger pressure, it is all in the rotation of the hand so everything stays relaxed.

 

[OR Archer]

I never would suggest any finger pressure, it is all in the rotation of the hand so everything stays relaxed.

Exactly. I see guys come into the shop and they'll have good hand position but just squeeze the crap out of the front of the riser and wonder why they cant get good arrow flight. Once they relax those front fingers it clears up their issue.

 

[Slim Jim]

^^^^ I just corrected this problem. I used to always turn my index finger in to avoid the broadhead but didn't realize I was gripping the riser causing a little torque. My groups have tightened up since I corrected this.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Hawker calls it "holding a rattlesnake." Ha!

 

[ontarget7]

Exactly. I see guys come into the shop and they'll have good hand position but just squeeze the crap out of the front of the riser and wonder why they cant get good arrow flight. Once they relax those front fingers it clears up their issue.

Relaxing your fingers is one thing but finding that sweet spot for applied pressure is another when you are trying to achieve perfect flight with bareshafts and fletched at 20 yards.

 

[Tilzbow]

Relaxing your fingers is one thing but finding that sweet spot for applied pressure is another when you are trying to achieve perfect flight with bareshafts and fletched at 20 yards.

So I've been messing around with this the past 3 - 4 days at 15 yards in my garage. I found the sweet spot for me and my bow tonight and I couldn't believe the flight I started getting with bare shafts. As good or better than that is the fact the bow holds extremely solid and my bow hand is naturally relaxed. The hand position I need to use on the grip for this bow is significantly different than my previous bow and helps explain why I've struggled with broadhead tuning the past couple of years.

After getting the grip dialed in I started messing around with the elbow angle of my draw arm and found that seemed to have a pretty significant influence on the bare shaft flight and I'd speculate that elbow angle influences the bow hand.


Really good stuff on this thread! Every year I learn several new things that really help. Thanks to Ontarget7 and others willing to share their knowledge.

 

[ontarget7]

So I've been messing around with this the past 3 - 4 days at 15 yards in my garage. I found the sweet spot for me and my bow tonight and I couldn't believe the flight I started getting with bare shafts. As good or better than that is the fact the bow holds extremely solid and my bow hand is naturally relaxed. The hand position I need to use on the grip for this bow is significantly different than my previous bow and helps explain why I've struggled with broadhead tuning the past couple of years.

After getting the grip dialed in I started messing around with the elbow angle of my draw arm and found that seemed to have a pretty significant influence on the bare shaft flight and I'd speculate that elbow angle influences the bow hand.


Really good stuff on this thread! Every year I learn several new things that really help. Thanks to Ontarget7 and others willing to share their knowledge.

I am very glad you found this helpful ! It really is like a light bulb that goes off when everything comes together

Congrats !

Anytime,

Shane

 

[Whisky]

Tag and bump for learning!!

I've started down the path of bare shaft shooting and tuning. Shane has helped me make some dang good progress with the bow this week, now it's up to me to figure out this grip thing. Crazy I wasted a little time on Sunday building a paper tuner, got good holes through paper pretty easily, went to shoot bare shafts and results were pure crap. That's when I enlisted the help from Shane because I've never had good luck with broad heads flying with FP's after a good paper tune, wanted to try something different. Drastic changes were soon made to the bow.

How many of you consistently practice with bare shafts? Something I'm going to start doing every time I shoot, at least for a while. I need to be able to consistently repeat this at 20 yds.

View attachment 16046

Started like this at 10 yds.

View attachment 16047

View attachment 16048

THanks again Shane!!

 

[Whisky]

Pictures

20 yds after some help from Shane

Started like this at 10 yds