Bought a Rem model 721 to restore

[cruizer]

I recently purchased a Rem model 721 to restore. I only bought said rifle because it was a 1951 model, same year I was born, and my Dad hunted all his life with a model 721. I am going to have the stock refinished, and have all metal reblued. I have included a picture of the muzzle, and my question is; would you guys have a Smith cut off maybe an 1/8" and recrown, or just leave as is and have it reblued? Thanks for any and all replies.

 

[6mm Remington]

I think your gunsmith could sand the scratches out enough that you won't see them after bluing the barrel again, or if you can only ever so slightly. From the picture the actual crown itself at the muzzle opening does not look damaged and appears to be in good shape. Second thing is what good is this without more pictures dang it! I want to see the whole rifle and what caliber it is in!!! You're killing us here teasing us like that.

 

[Wapiti1]

I agree, the crown is fine on that barrel. Whoever you have do the bluing should clean up the dings when they prep it.

Jeremy

 

[cruizer]

Thanks for the replies. 6mm, it's a plain old 30-06. I'm leaving home shortly, but will post some pics this afternoon. Nice old 721 that I hope shoots well. Don't even have it yet, but is on the way.

 

[rayporter]

i dont see any damage to the crown but if you want it done it can be crowned easy enough with out cutting it. lots of you tube vids if you want to try it your self.

 

[Stillkickin]

Thanks for the replies. 6mm, it's a plain old 30-06. I'm leaving home shortly, but will post some pics this afternoon. Nice old 721 that I hope shoots well. Don't even have it yet, but is on the way.

I would be surprised if it doesn’t shoot well, every 722 and 721 I’ve had a chance to shoot sure did.

My 722 in 257 Roberts shoots almost any load and bullet into an inch or inch and a half.

 

[cruizer]

Pictures per request. It should clean up pretty nicely, and the bore looks really good, so I hope it's a shooter.

 

[cruizer]

Last pic:

 

[6mm Remington]

Looks nice! I don't know if you want to keep it completely original looking or not. If it doesn't matter that much I'd have a nice soft recoil pad put on it in addition to having a good gunsmith checker it for you. It will look sharp and will be less slick in the hands for sure. The triggers were decent back then but a good gunsmith should also be able to work some magic on it and get it to a nice sharp and safe 3#. That too will help you towards shooting the best groups the rifle is capable of. It sure looks nice. Just had to add too that if you are going the route I am talking about, I would have it also pillar and glass bedded!

165 gr. Nosler Accubond or Partition would be the cats meow in it too for just about anything you would want to hunt with that rifle. I wouldn't be afraid to use either bullet on everything. Same thing with the 150 gr. Nosler E-Tip. Great bullets that really hold their weight and penetrate. Maybe you live or hunt in lead free zones. If so the E-Tips are awesome. I would use the 150 gr. E-Tip for the increased muzzle velocity instead of the 168 gr. E-Tip. They won't shed weight and will penetrate like nobodies business.

H4350 or IMR4350 both are great for powders to build an accurate load with. Sure there are some newer powders that would give you a little more fps, but maybe only around 170 fps more. IMR4350 is what I have used in two 30-06 rifles with fantastic results.


David

 

[Wapiti1]

That is clean. Rare to see one with the original metal buttplate and the sights still on it.

Not sure I would do a thing to it. I never see those in that good of shape.

Jeremy

 

[6mm Remington]

That is clean. Rare to see one with the original metal buttplate and the sights still on it.

Not sure I would do a thing to it. I never see those in that good of shape.

Jeremy

I know it is in fantastic condition with everything original. I could also sure see adding a few touches such as I listed above. It probably would be worth more if kept original.

 

[Stillkickin]

I know it is in fantastic condition with everything original. I could also sure see adding a few touches such as I listed above. It probably would be worth more if kept original.

That’s as nice of one as you will see, keep it as original as possible.

Enjoy!

 

[cruizer]

Thanks for all the replies. If it looks as good as the pictures indicate when it arrives, I may just leave it be.
What type of finish did these have? Would it accept some tru-oil without having to strip it?

 

[Wapiti1]

They were finished with a simple varnish. Yes, tru-oil will be fine on it to give it a little better sheen.

One caveat is the original finish was tinted red. So removal will yield a much lighter and browner stock.

Jeremy

 

[robtattoo]

They were finished with a simple varnish. Yes, tru-oil will be fine on it to give it a little better sheen.

One caveat is the original finish was tinted red. So removal will yield a much lighter and browner stock.

Jeremy

That's not an insurmountable issue.
We're I you, i'd strip the varnish completely. Sand all the wood to 400grit then apply several coats of Alkanet oil......

SB McWilliams ALKANET ROOT Stain/Finish Gunstock Woodworking Refinishing Vintage | eBay

It has a rich history in the craft and I love making it and I love using it myself. Alkanet is all about "hue". On straight grained walnut it will give the wood a burgundy hue and looks initially like mahogany.

www.ebay.com

......
until you reach the desired color. Then start with the Tru-oil. Wet sand the first few coats to fill your grain with thinned oil, then apply neat oil, buffing between coats. Finish off with either rottenstone or a cutting polish to take it back to a traditional hand rubbed finish. It takes time, but it's absolutely worth the effort.

The Alkanet isn't a stain, as such, its best described as a highlighter. It brings out the reds in wood, naturally.

 

[billoo349]

They were finished with a simple varnish. Yes, tru-oil will be fine on it to give it a little better sheen.

One caveat is the original finish was tinted red. So removal will yield a much lighter and browner stock.

Jeremy

I have a 721 from my great grandpa that I refinished the stock on when I was about 14. I wish I would have known that back then, instead I sanded it down and put probably just a can of minwax wood stain on it. It lost that unique redness, but I'll never forget working on it with my dad.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[Axlrod]

Nice looking 721. I have a few 721's and 722's. That crown looks like it has been redone before- I haven't seen one that was recessed from the factory.

 

[KClark]

Nice looking 721. I have a few 721's and 722's. That crown looks like it has been redone before- I haven't seen one that was recessed from the factory.

This ^ That's not the factory crown.

 

[cruizer]

I really appreciate all the comments, answers and ideas. I too was wondering about the crown on the rifle. It will be interesting to see how long the barrel is when it arrives. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge.

 

[cruizer]

Well, the old girl came in yesterday, and I had a very pleasant surprise. First thing I looked at after opening, was that muzzle, to see how bad it really was. To my surprise, it was perfect, no nick or gouge at all. Texted the guy I bought it from and asked about the nick in the muzzle, which now did not exist. He was confused and didn't know what I was talking about. Long story short, He mistakenly sent me a picture of a Contender muzzle by mistake, when he sent me all the other pics of the 721. I am going to leave this rifle as is, as it is in unbelievable shape for 70 years old. Going to look for an old Lyman Alaskan, or something similar to put on her to keep it period correct. Posting a pic of the muzzle as it really is. Thanks all.