Blaser R8 Ultimate w/ATZL Trigger

I see. My bad bro.

No problems so far. But I am excited to get my 22 creed with proof barrel made on Akila shank.

That said, It does take a one piece barrel and turns it into two (Akila shank and the proof barrel). So by nature it adds a failure point the j sipp barrels don’t have.
Blood truth to that. I feel the same way. As long as my face doesn't get blown off I guess I won't care.

Doing the same thing with the 22 Creedmoor and my Akilas.

I know guys have done the 7mm PRC. I think I would live with a 7mm Rem or 300 and be happy with it. I had a 7mm Blaser barrel for a while, but the problem of twist rate is worse in that cartridge.
 
Blood truth to that. I feel the same way. As long as my face doesn't get blown off I guess I won't care.

Doing the same thing with the 22 Creedmoor and my Akilas.

I know guys have done the 7mm PRC. I think I would live with a 7mm Rem or 300 and be happy with it. I had a 7mm Blaser barrel for a while, but the problem of twist rate is worse in that cartridge.
That’s why I use after market also. The twist rate. Hopefully Blaser will eventually catch up with modern cartridges.
 
Can you order directly from Aikla in the USA?

He ships things here to the house in Germany in about 3 days.

I am going to buy a lower receiver or two from him before I leave Germany next year.
 
Can you order directly from Aikla in the USA?

He ships things here to the house in Germany in about 3 days.

I am going to buy a lower receiver or two from him before I leave Germany next year.
Yes. I have looked hard at the Akila stocks they are just too expensive right now.

With evolved ballistics they do it all. They get the proof Blaser barrel and Akila shank, then use a gunsmith in Texas who combines the two and chambers.

They keep telling me the proof 22 blaser barrel blanks are on back order is what is causing the delay.
 
Ok, yes the prices here in Europe are rough.

European smiths charge more for a home grown carbon fiber stock than McMillan or Manners does by another 50-80%. Some of them are $2800, just for the stock.
 

This is a smoking deal, it would have another $250-300 worth of proof house fees here.

I have a Sauer SSG 3000 barrel on order and it is $1400. No carbon, just a steel barrel.

I am going to order a couple of Benchmark barrels when I get closer to coming home, I doubt they are $1000.
 

This is a smoking deal, it would have another $250-300 worth of proof house fees here.

I have a Sauer SSG 3000 barrel on order and it is $1400. No carbon, just a steel barrel.

I am going to order a couple of Benchmark barrels when I get closer to coming home, I doubt they are $1000.
That’s what I ordered but in steel. It’s like 1200 which is a “steal” for a Blaser barrel. But that’s what I pay for I sipp barrels too.

I have 4 stocks. I would have ordered a carbon fiber stock by now but didn’t want to steal the receiver out of one of my others. Looks like Akila includes a receiver in the stock now.

I have a jaeger wood, professional, and two grs stocks (sporter and the Ragnarok chassis).
 
I had 3 stocks before I moved back to Europe. Only have one here.

I am excited to move back next year. Only been a couple years, but things have really gone to hell in Germany.
 
Same immigration problems you are having in America, except they are mostly military aged males from countries that are normally our enemies, doing atrocities against women and children.
 
My Blaser is my favorite rifles. I have been selling most of my other rifles over time as I don't use them any more. Main reasons I love it:

- Pro success stock points fast from all field shooting positions.
- Almost no drop in the comb so recoil impulse is straight back.
- Trigger/mag combo reduces length by 4" of total rifle. I can run short barrels suppresssed, or full length suppressed and it is same length as most rifles un-suppressed.
- De-cocker means I can move with round in chamber safely (extremely useful for night hunts, bush hunts, and culls where fast shot is needed).
- Straight pull doesn't mess up my position after a shot.
- Trigger is awesome.
- Can swap barrels in 60 seconds without any zero shift ever.
- Can swap scopes on barrels (daylight to thermal) without any shift in zero ever.
- Feeds flawlessly. I've never had a jam after countless thousands of rounds.
- Very accurate with standard barrel. Consistently sub-MOA for me with good ammo.
- No need to fiddle with anything to make it accurate. It is ready to go.
- Switch calibers and rifle stock/trigger always feels the same. No need to re-learn a rifle.

Reasons not to like it:

- I only use Blaser barrels for safety reasons and they are expensive. However they seem to go forever. Myself and others have shot 223 in huge piles and barrels are still going.
- Twist rates are limited.
- Can't get latest belle of the ball calibers if that's your thing without 3rd party extension.
- Scope mounts are expensive, but you can get excellent 3rd party versions (pic rails, etc.).
- Heavier than some other rifles, but still within reason for all the positives.

They seem expensive up front, but no more than a good custom and almost certainly will perform as well if not better. It's a complete system that is accurate, safe and reliable. It has replaced several rifles for me so likely it has saved me money in some way.

EDIT: Gun porn.camphoto_126398554.jpg
 
My Blaser is my favorite rifles. I have been selling most of my other rifles over time as I don't use them any more. Main reasons I love it:

- Pro success stock points fast from all field shooting positions.
- Almost no drop in the comb so recoil impulse is straight back.
- Trigger/mag combo reduces length by 4" of total rifle. I can run short barrels suppresssed, or full length suppressed and it is same length as most rifles un-suppressed.
- De-cocker means I can move with round in chamber safely (extremely useful for night hunts, bush hunts, and culls where fast shot is needed).
- Straight pull doesn't mess up my position after a shot.
- Trigger is awesome.
- Can swap barrels in 60 seconds without any zero shift ever.
- Can swap scopes on barrels (daylight to thermal) without any shift in zero ever.
- Feeds flawlessly. I've never had a jam after countless thousands of rounds.
- Very accurate with standard barrel. Consistently sub-MOA for me with good ammo.
- No need to fiddle with anything to make it accurate. It is ready to go.
- Switch calibers and rifle stock/trigger always feels the same. No need to re-learn a rifle.

Reasons not to like it:

- I only use Blaser barrels for safety reasons and they are expensive. However they seem to go forever. Myself and others have shot 223 in huge piles and barrels are still going.
- Twist rates are limited.
- Can't get latest belle of the ball calibers if that's your thing without 3rd party extension.
- Scope mounts are expensive, but you can get excellent 3rd party versions (pic rails, etc.).
- Heavier than some other rifles, but still within reason for all the positives.

They seem expensive up front, but no more than a good custom and almost certainly will perform as well if not better. It's a complete system that is accurate, safe and reliable. It has replaced several rifles for me so likely it has saved me money in some way.

EDIT: Gun porn.View attachment 887876
I have had mine for maybe two weeks and I agree with just about everything you wrote. I too foresee selling a lot of rifles.

For me, it’s the trigger and the safety design. I would never hunt with a .5 pound trigger. However, there is literally no way for that hammer to drop because it is completely inert until you cock it. It is much easier to shoot precisely with suck a consistent and light trigger pull.

I see one drawback to the system. If you do not send that bolt fully forward, it will not fire. It will show red on the hammer like it will fire but when the time comes you’ll hear a click and then nothing happens. The only solution is to cycle the bolt again. This is easily overcome by closing the bolt with the palm of your hand and not fingers. This problem is exacerbated if the barrel is dirty. Carbon and unburnt powder accumulates around the portion of the barrel that locks up.

I spent two days and 250 rounds of ammo in the dusty Arizona desert pushing this thing. No other problems noted other than that. One thing I do notice is that the barrel holds POI when hot extremely well. I was hitting a .25 mil rock at 1,175 yards over and over again even at the end of a 25 shot string. Impressive.
 
The "Blaser Click" has happened to me a few times at the range. It is an out of battery condition. It usually happens during rapid fire if I didn't put the bolt all the way forward. On hunts, I just make sure I push the bolt solidly when I load the rifle then put it on safe. Then I pull the bolt to make sure it is locked closed as a double check. In this state it will never be out of battery.

You can actually re-cock it faster than working the bolt if it happens and be very quiet about it. If you get the click, the bolt has likely been brought into battery. You can push the handle forward to ensure, then uncock the safety and re-cock it and it will fire without cycling.

I own a match barrel in 6.5x55 and I've noticed no difference in accuracy vs. standard barrels. Maybe that's not totally fair as it's extremely accurate. But in practice I can't discern anything. This is the reason I'm reluctant to mess with 3rd party barrels. The Blaser gear is just a well known quantity. If I miss a shot I know it's 100% my fault and can't blame the gear.
 
The "Blaser Click" has happened to me a few times at the range. It is an out of battery condition. It usually happens during rapid fire if I didn't put the bolt all the way forward. On hunts, I just make sure I push the bolt solidly when I load the rifle then put it on safe. Then I pull the bolt to make sure it is locked closed as a double check. In this state it will never be out of battery.

You can actually re-cock it faster than working the bolt if it happens and be very quiet about it. If you get the click, the bolt has likely been brought into battery. You can push the handle forward to ensure, then uncock the safety and re-cock it and it will fire without cycling.

I own a match barrel in 6.5x55 and I've noticed no difference in accuracy vs. standard barrels. Maybe that's not totally fair as it's extremely accurate. But in practice I can't discern anything. This is the reason I'm reluctant to mess with 3rd party barrels. The Blaser gear is just a well known quantity. If I miss a shot I know it's 100% my fault and can't blame the gear.
Right. Just push the already closed bolt foward firmly. No need to recycle.
 
Right. Just push the already closed bolt foward firmly. No need
Right. Just push the already closed bolt foward firmly. No need to recycle.

Right. Just push the already closed bolt foward firmly. No need to recycle.
I’ll try it again but that has not been my experience. The hammer is still showing cocked but I had to cycle the bolt back and then shut it with more force.

It wasn’t simply a matter of pressing it forward into battery and pulling the trigger again.

It was only happening when I was cycling with my fingers in the prone position and the barrel was pretty gunked up. Blaser U.S.A. just told me to close the bolt with the palm of my hand which naturally results in more force.

I simply ordered a tactical bolt knob that one closed with their palm any way. I don’t Forster it being a problem but it is the weakest point of the design in my opinion.
 
When it clicks:

1) Push the bolt forward without cycling.
2) Un-cock the safety and re-cock.
3) Pull trigger.

Often you can just skip step (1) and simply un-cock the safety and re-cock then pull the trigger. But I recommend pushing the bolt forward to be sure.

What is happening is the rifle is de-cocked from the out of battery firing. You just need to re-cock it. You can of course cycle the bolt, but the faster/quieter thing to do is simply un-cock and re-cock.
 
I’ll try it again but that has not been my experience. The hammer is still showing cocked but I had to cycle the bolt back and then shut it with more force.

It wasn’t simply a matter of pressing it forward into battery and pulling the trigger again.

It was only happening when I was cycling with my fingers in the prone position and the barrel was pretty gunked up. Blaser U.S.A. just told me to close the bolt with the palm of my hand which naturally results in more force.

I simply ordered a tactical bolt knob that one closed with their palm any way. I don’t Forster it being a problem but it is the weakest point of the design in my opinion.
There are probably 100 posts online about this issue. It’s nothing new to you and has already been figured out.

Now that I know about it I always cycle firmly and I’ve never had it happen again.
 
Yes. It's the same thing as not putting a turn bolt action all the way down. It's not unique to Blaser and is just classic out of battery condition by not cycling a rifle bolt fully. The Blaser cycles so fast it's easy to get lazy and just flick the slide forward.
 
An R93 with a carbon fiber stock is a super light weight rifle, possibly in the sub 6 pounds range with a cut barrel at 18-120 inches and a carbon fiber stock.

Below is a list of all known aftermarket items for Blaser rifles.


Thanks, that link is helpful. I knew the R93 was lighter, but dismissed it given the R8s improved locking collet. I’ll look again.

Interestingly, the Jakele J1 was brought to market by the designer of the R93. Have you experienced one? It’s a 5lb 12-15oz rifle. It’s got that weird cocking trigger guard though which I’m not a fan of.

The Chapuis ROLLS Carbon is another lightweight straight pull that mimics a Blaser in many ways, but I’ve not had access to one to see. They do have a US group now. I wonder how it compares. (I read it doesn’t hold zero as well after component swap).
 
I finally received the 30 mm high mount that allowed me too mount a better scope (I was using a SWFA 3-9 HD). Shot this group today with a Maven Rs1.2. Nine shits, .74 inches at 100 yards.

I’m continually impressed with these Blaser barrels. I had a Sako Carbon Light and that barrel went to crap after 3-4 rounds. This thing takes heat like a champ. I imagine they’re using extremely high quality steel to manufacture these.
 

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