bird dog caught in snare

[WCB]

Just to be clear, in the post of mine you replied to I used the word SHOULD a couple times and the word BAN exactly ZERO times. I thought i cleaned up my view in a following post but maybe not.......

No your follow up post made sense. I was replying to the post that replied to mine. As said your follow up made sense and clarified what you meant.

 

[WCB]

The point of the post was all through this thread, if you had taken the time to actually read it, the discussion was around big conibear traps on dry land sets. You waded in half- cocked and for some reason you are now being defensive. No one singled you out so calm down. It's those lazy dumbasses that are ruining it for everyone else who follows the letter of the law. They'll also be the first to complain when things get taken away from them. Now, I'm off to check my cat walk throughs and marten boxes.

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Go read the post I replied to and the post that was quoted in it from Sanchez...you mentioned 330s a couple times before...Sanchez just mentions "conibear"...from reading it I would guess Sanchez may not know the difference in sizes of conibears and the reply to his post talks about regulating "conibears" to water sets with no consideration to size or method of the set.

So, no, I didn't come in half cocked and the poster I replied to clarified what he meant and then mentioned a 330. If you felt the need to correct leghold then "conibear" shouldn't be used as a blanket term for every size and set when talking about regulation.

 

[S.Clancy]

My buddies dog got caught in a snare, he had to shoot the cable cause the dog was going to strangle itself. I also watched my brothers dog get caught in a foothold. Both situations can be minimized by carrying a tool and keeping your head.

That being said, I have nothing against trapping. The only thing is I would prefer them be well marked on public land.

 

[sneaky]

Go read the post I replied to and the post that was quoted in it from Sanchez...you mentioned 330s a couple times before...Sanchez just mentions "conibear"...from reading it I would guess Sanchez may not know the difference in sizes of conibears and the reply to his post talks about regulating "conibears" to water sets with no consideration to size or method of the set.

So, no, I didn't come in half cocked and the poster I replied to clarified what he meant and then mentioned a 330. If you felt the need to correct leghold then "conibear" shouldn't be used as a blanket term for every size and set when talking about regulation.

Technically Conibear only applies to one particular brand of traps that bears the inventors name, Conibear. Everything else is a copy and should be called a body grip, unless produced under the Conibear trademark.

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[Nooksack]

Responsible law abiding dog owners dogs are not being caught by responsible law abiding trappers.

More laws, or banning what's already illegal won't solve the problem...

Arguing on a public forum certainly does nothing in the direction of resolution.

 

[cod007]

Responsible law abiding dog owners dogs are not being caught by responsible law abiding trappers.

More laws, or banning what's already illegal won't solve the problem...

Arguing on a public forum certainly does nothing in the direction of resolution.

Actually, yes they are. Sometimes. The dog killed just on the edge of Seward , Ak was a legally set conibear and was a law abiding responsible law abiding dog owner.
Discussion of such a problem on a public forum may help educate folks of a situation such as this.

 

[johnsd16]

Alaska and a couple other states are unique in that they still allow use of 330 conibears on dry land and not elevated. My opinion only, and having been part of the MN trappers association attending meetings, visiting the capitol, etc during the Lynx lawsuit and conibear changes many years ago, is that dryland 330s are a risk that will result in some negative changes down the road. I would think in AK, that 330s could be eliminated in some boroughs other than water sets, or limited to a short time of year when lynx and wolverine are targeted and have rules about how close (pretty far) from any trails, towns, dwellings etc. They are truly dangerous to dogs, and are hard to manage without setters or good knowledge of how a conibear works. I have used a TON of 160s and quite a few 220s in dry sets and with some thoughtful placement, baiting, and common sense they are really a very safe way to set for coon, mink, fisher, etc. Trappers need to be proactive/police their own and are our own worst enemies sometimes. Moving to ID I really didn't like that I had to take a class just to trap like I had been for over a decade but after taking the course it is really positive. Could always be better but my standards are pretty high for education/content/delivery.

 

[Tod osier]

Alaska and a couple other states are unique in that they still allow use of 330 conibears on dry land and not elevated. My opinion only, and having been part of the MN trappers association attending meetings, visiting the capitol, etc during the Lynx lawsuit and conibear changes many years ago, is that dryland 330s are a risk that will result in some negative changes down the road. I would think in AK, that 330s could be eliminated in some boroughs other than water sets, or limited to a short time of year when lynx and wolverine are targeted and have rules about how close (pretty far) from any trails, towns, dwellings etc. They are truly dangerous to dogs, and are hard to manage without setters or good knowledge of how a conibear works. I have used a TON of 160s and quite a few 220s in dry sets and with some thoughtful placement, baiting, and common sense they are really a very safe way to set for coon, mink, fisher, etc. Trappers need to be proactive/police their own and are our own worst enemies sometimes. Moving to ID I really didn't like that I had to take a class just to trap like I had been for over a decade but after taking the course it is really positive. Could always be better but my standards are pretty high for education/content/delivery.

I own a 220 that I bought to practice rescuing a dog from and feel pretty confident that I can remove one in the heat of the moment. Can you give an estimate of how much tougher a 330 is to deal with? or is it not worth worrying about since the dog would be dead?

 

[Stache Attack]

Hard to say that one use of public land is more important than another. Never heard anyone say we should ban bird dogs on public land....


Edit....Hunters need to stay together as hunters. When we divide ourselves we all loose.

This was my initial impression, a good bird dog should be in view as others stated, and as an outdoorsman you should be prepared to remove a snare or foothold. I don’t like the idea of bans on public ground especially when controlling predators/others making a living being outside.

 

[cbat]

So I trap a fair bit with foothold traps and when snow flys I use snares. I caught a ladies 2 dogs in snares, which by the way were on private property. Both dogs sat there calmly until she too trespassed to go find them. Then she proceeds to steal my snares because she could not figure out how to slide them open. At least she turned herself in to the gamewarden. As far as foothold traps mangling there legs that is BS. As a matter of fact I stuck my hand in one of my wolf traps to prove the point just last week. Had a guy thinking they were pretty fierce until I showed him that it broke no skin or bruised my hand anywhere. The Idaho Trappers Association tries to have a booth at most dog events to help educate dog owners.

 

[cbat]

I have a buddy in UT whose dog got caught in one. He ended up having to shove his shotgun against the dogs neck and shoot it off of her. By the stroke of God he shot it off without hurting his dog. The snare was not marked nor did it have any owner information on it and was 30 yds from the parking area. Needless to say he destroyed the entire setup.

If this happened than it was not a legal trapper. No different than a poacher.

 

[Erict]

OP is still actively posting elsewhere, but has vaporized from this thread. Wonder how much he's learned.

 

[Tod osier]

OP is still actively posting elsewhere, but has vaporized from this thread. Wonder how much he's learned.

Enough?

 

[Vandy321]

OP is still actively posting elsewhere, but has vaporized from this thread. Wonder how much he's learned.

Didnt realize I needed to report back to you my conclusions.

Next time you feel the need to know opinions, just ask, Im not shy about it. I posted my opinion a few pages back. Draw your own conclusions...

 

[cod007]

This was my initial impression, a good bird dog should be in view as others stated, and as an outdoorsman you should be prepared to remove a snare or foothold. I don’t like the idea of bans on public ground especially when controlling predators/others making a living being outside.

A lot of assumptions going on in this thread. I don’t know how familiar you are with bird dogs but it’s not at all uncommon for a GOOD bird dog to be out of sight OFTEN. Especially if they are working wooded areas. Much of my hunting with my two dogs is relatively wooded country and my dogs are out of sight at least half of the time. If they find a bird and I’m not around, they come back into my view and then they ‘give me the look’. I ask them if they have a bird And if they do, they let me know by their response. (Don’t know if they actually point b4 coming back to get me, but both my dogs do this, often!) Not bragging. I suspect all kinds of owners have those kinds of relationships with their pointers.
My toner collar brings them back to me on a moments notice whenever I ask.

 

[Dos Perros]

A lot of western bird hunters have dogs that range 200 to 750 yards fairly regularly, with some aggressive casts into that range where the Garmin switches from yards to hundredths of a mile. Like others I’d wager I could see my dogs less than half the time even in big open country.

 

[Erict]

Didnt realize I needed to report back to you my conclusions.

Next time you feel the need to know opinions, just ask, Im not shy about it. I posted my opinion a few pages back. Draw your own conclusions...

Oh I've drawn some conclusions, that's for sure. Good day to you.

 

[johnsd16]

I own a 220 that I bought to practice rescuing a dog from and feel pretty confident that I can remove one in the heat of the moment. Can you give an estimate of how much tougher a 330 is to deal with? or is it not worth worrying about since the dog would be dead?

Depends on brand, but I set my duke and Bridger 220s and 160s by hand if they’re empty or have something small in them. Stronger traps like belisles are much harder to set by hand. The smaller the spring eyes are, the harder to set by hand. The issue with 330s is twofold. One, the springs are wider when open before the trap is bigger, so it is harder to get hand strength on them. Second, the springs are stronger, and just harder to compress. With a tool (setting tongs) or using the rope technique, a 330 is only marginally harder than a 220. Most hunting size dogs will be killed by suffocation in a 330 so there theoretically would be some time. Some of the “Canadian” style 330s like belisle and savageau (spelling) are real strong and hit hard and will be less forgiving. So it depends on several things. Traps do weaken with age too.

 

[Vandy321]

Oh I've drawn some conclusions, that's for sure. Good day to you.

I'll sleep well tonight knowing you are capable of drawing your own conclusions. Proud of you.

 

[sneaky]

Alaska and a couple other states are unique in that they still allow use of 330 conibears on dry land and not elevated. My opinion only, and having been part of the MN trappers association attending meetings, visiting the capitol, etc during the Lynx lawsuit and conibear changes many years ago, is that dryland 330s are a risk that will result in some negative changes down the road. I would think in AK, that 330s could be eliminated in some boroughs other than water sets, or limited to a short time of year when lynx and wolverine are targeted and have rules about how close (pretty far) from any trails, towns, dwellings etc. They are truly dangerous to dogs, and are hard to manage without setters or good knowledge of how a conibear works. I have used a TON of 160s and quite a few 220s in dry sets and with some thoughtful placement, baiting, and common sense they are really a very safe way to set for coon, mink, fisher, etc. Trappers need to be proactive/police their own and are our own worst enemies sometimes. Moving to ID I really didn't like that I had to take a class just to trap like I had been for over a decade but after taking the course it is really positive. Could always be better but my standards are pretty high for education/content/delivery.

The reason you had to take that class in Idaho is more of a liability issue than teaching you how to trap. We have a very active trapper's association and liberal seasons because of this. Much easier to defend seasons and methods when they can go in front of committees and tell them that every licensed trapper in the state has had an approved trapper education course. Two if you take the wolf class. That's one less thing the antis can use in their arguments. With the class even NR can trap in Idaho, MN doesn't even allow NR to trap. That's more ridiculous than having to take a class.

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