Bipod Technique

[Steve O]

I grew up when the only bipod option was a Harris and they looked like a lot of weight and rattle traps so I’ve gotten by for a long time shooting off packs, rocks, logs, ect. The longest shot I’ve ever made is 400 yards. I’d like to get better and be able to shoot farther, and all the newer bipods like Spartan, Atlas, Extreme Outer Limits look like a great tool.

I’ve looked around here and YouTube ect. Looking for HOW to use a bipod properly. I don’t understand this “preload” and when I watch a show like Bob Beck’s or the Gunwerks, I don’t see anything extra they are doing but laying the rifle down on the bipod and using some sort of rear rest.

Could you guys give me some tips and/or point me to a good tutorial before I start down this road?

 

[Journeyman]

It’s hard to load a harris because there is no play. Atlas, Thunderbeast, Hatch, Ckye Pod all have play forwards/backwards. Your goal is to be dead weight (i.e. a sandbag) behind the rifle but with that dead weight holding the rifle at the furthest forward point of travel of the bipod. Depending on the bipod we could be talking a quarter to a half inch. This allows the rifle to travel straight back under recoil and directly into your shoulder which should have no tension in it again like a sand bag.

If you put heavy pressure forward and tense your shoulder you wont manage recoil well or maintain your sight picture because it will be like putting the rifle against a brick wall.

So yes apply slight forward pressure on the bipod but do it with dead weight.

 

[Varminterror]

I’ve given up on preloading bipods on most surfaces altogether. The largest issue is the simple fact not all surfaces will allow consistent pre-load, so planning to preload sets you up for inconsistency among different surfaces.

Phil Velayo did a nice video recently on how to “build the bridge” between your shoulder and the bipod. THIS method of supporting the rifle on the body frame and musculature, and only stabilizing with the rear bag is the most “preload” I’d recommend.

 

[WCB]

I’ve given up on preloading bipods on most surfaces altogether. The largest issue is the simple fact not all surfaces will allow consistent pre-load, so planning to preload sets you up for inconsistency among different surfaces.

Phil Velayo did a nice video recently on how to “build the bridge” between your shoulder and the bipod. THIS method of supporting the rifle on the body frame and musculature, and only stabilizing with the rear bag is the most “preload” I’d recommend.

The video is literally a demonstration on loading/preloading the bipod. He even says it in the video. He just recommends not sliding or pushing up into the firearm. Then on the concrete or a surface where that is not possible teaching you how to deal with it. Yes, you cannot load the bipod on slick concrete (probably can with rubber feet on the bipod. That normally doesn't matter in 99% of hunting situations.

 

[Varminterror]

The video is literally a demonstration on loading/preloading the bipod. He even says it in the video.

Yes, it is. As I said it was, by saying the video demonstrates the most preload I recommend.

We’re not bearing heavily into the rifle, we’re simply building the bridge so the rifle is supported by the shoulder, not the bag. Don’t have to dig holes to plant the legs, no flex, not trying to out muscle the recoil. Just settle so gravity is locking the rifle into the shoulder.

 

[WCB]

Yes, it is. As I said it was, by saying the video demonstrates the most preload I recommend.

We’re not bearing heavily into the rifle, we’re simply building the bridge so the rifle is supported by the shoulder, not the bag. Don’t have to dig holes to plant the legs, no flex, not trying to out muscle the recoil. Just settle so gravity is locking the rifle into the shoulder.

I take my post back then. I read it a bit different. I stand corrected