Best way to clean off corrosion from Iron Will BH

Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
250
I forgot to add some oil to the BH before the opener today and my BH started to show surface rust. Surprised it only took 6 hours but not a big deal. Also what do you recommend to put on the BH to prevent surface rust. I was just going to use mineral oil

Thanks for the advice.
 
Curious myself. I have been using clp but I'm curious what the man will say. Seems I read to blue them. That peaked my interest but I don't know if it's feasible for most to use a hot blue.
 
Curious about this. I’ve heard this a bunch but I’ve had mine for 6 months and have zero corrosion. Never put anything in them, do I need to start?
 
I’d always saw my sharp Zwickeys into a block of paraffin or candle. Wipe off the excess. No smell and it rust proofed them very well. I shoot stainless blades today but would use paraffin preferential to oil. Good luck.
 
Chapstick

Oops, misread. Chapstick will keep it off but I would just use steel wool to clean it off.
 
Last edited:
Steel wool should take care of any rust or otherwise on them. I wouldn't worry about them unless the rust starts to build to the point that it makes for an unbalanced arrow.
 
To help prevent rust, look at either cold blue, or Sentry Tuf-Cloth tool wipes.

To remove, light penetrating oil and fine steel wool or fine scotch brite pad.

Jeremy
 
I've used fine steel wool, and then a stone and strop to take care of the edges
 
Use some 1000 or 2000 grit sand paper to take the surface corrosion off. As far as protecting them I just give them a quick spray with some Pam before putting them in the quiver. Olive oil works too but Pam is a little easier.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for the delayed response. I've been out elk hunting and shot a nice bull!

A2 steel has less corrosion resistance than stainless steel. It has 5% chromium, so a decent amount of corrosion resistance, but not the >13% chromium of SS. The benefit is that it has far superior mechanical properties when both high hardness (edge sharpness & edge retention) and high impact strength are needed. We did laboratory salt spray testing to industry standards and found that A2 performed similar to 420SS in the number of days before damaging corrosion (pitting) occurred, but surface spots do show up sooner. After multiple days in a wet quiver, I've found these spots to be just at the surface and can be removed with a plastic scraper, Scotchbrite pad, fine sandpaper, metal polish, or a polishing stone with no damage to the base metal. We put a light coat of food grade (oderless) mineral oil on the blades before shipping. This can be re-applied with use to further improve corrosion resistance. We now sell a blade care kit with a diemaker polishing stone and a blade oil pen for easy reapplication. Colorado is pretty dry and I haven't needed to do anything with my blades here, but I realize some places get a lot more moisture. Feel free to send a PM if you have any problems. Good hunting!
 
Back
Top